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Nobody here knows everything. We ALL started as newbies and learned over time. I love to learn new things. I like finding better ways to fix or diagnose a problem. Cheers.

No offense, but it appears that you are new to this so I'll pass along a few bits of information. Do NOT crank an an engine for extended periods of time whether it is a fresh start or a restart. This accelerates wear on the crankshaft bearings, cam and lifters, cylinder walls and piston rings...

My fat ex wife would dream of frying noises. Ham. Beef. Chickens and bacon.

The 68-70 B body 2 and 4 door cars had a 19 gallon tank.

I've had this very thing happen numerous times and never found a smoking gun. I did pull the bulkhead plugs, clean the terminals and pack them with dielectric grease....and not had an episode in 2 months. That may mean nothing...I sometimes went several months between incidents. Time will tell...

Nice work, Nacho.

Man, you went through the same thing that I've randomly dealt with for YEARS. It was never the same. Sometimes it would start fine for months, other times I'd touch nothing under the hood and it would get no spark. It could start and run, then I shut it down and try a few minutes later and no...

Nacho, SOME people are SO educated, they become ignorant to common sense and decorum. You are a good guy from what I can tell. :bananadance:

Too bad more people aren't like YOU, Bob. Imagine what a better world it would be. Maybe take this test and see how you do: Short Dark Tetrad, SD4 Report your findings in this thread: Are you a narcissist?

Based on that suggestion, Nacho seems to be the trusted source.

Here is the reroute as suggested by MAD enterprises....

Yes, with a timing light that is adjustable, you described the proper way to read the number. A tachometer is needed to read the engine speed. Without one, you're only guessing.

Timing needs to be checked with the car up to operating temperature and with the vacuum line from the carburetor to the distributor removed from the distributor and plugged off temporarily. The recommended settings for initial timing setting for a stock engine is easy to find but may not be the...

58 year old eyes..... I've never noticed the markings of numbers or letters.

If you would have explained yourself better, it would have improved matters immensely. From here, it looked like a guy looking at a map who was unable to make any sense from it. Others saw and understood, but it seemed like you were lost. You claiming to be an electrical engineer made no...

I never noticed that. I just read the wire diagram in my factory service manual and made sense of it immediately. In 2015, that was the first time I looked at the FSM for a wiring issue. Prior to that, I just compared wiring from one car to another. I needed the FSM when I bypassed the ammeter...

Castrol Super Clean is great on the grime. I've also used Brake cleaner, Carb cleaner, gasoline, Formula 409, Simple Green and often with a soft bristle toothbrush. Chrysler used the same color wires for the same things for a few years. I have numerous used harnesses from A and B body cars from...

I don't see the difficulty here. If your bulkhead plugs have any of the stock wires in them, it is easy to make sense of the orientation of the plug. The side by side pictures of the plugs show them opened up like two pieces of bread from a sandwich, which is why they are mirror images of each...

I just thought I'd post an update to this. I swapped in a distributor sold by Rick Ehrenberg. It is known as the Hi Rev 7500. It looks like a stock Mopar electronic unit. I put an FBO plate in it to limit the timing advance to 14 degrees but it ended up with 15. I have the initial set to 20 and...

The instructions were clear all this time? This is yet another example of how some people (myself included) have somehow blindly made their way through things relatively unscathed while deviating from solid advice and guidelines. I never thought about OHM ratings or compatibility. I just grabbed...