Recent content by Bird 426

No rust, sevicable parts seem good, struts could use new rubber bushings. I believe that the k-member is for a big block, has Schumacher mounts for a Gen ll Hemi. $500. OBO. Not shipping, but can deliver to Stillwater swap meet in Minnesota.

My circuit boards and solid state IVR were from Charger Specialties, think that was who it was. They were bought out awhile back.

The water jackets should have studs, do you want to.go through this process every time you remove the header?

That sounds like it. I am not out in the garage, but pretty sure that's them. I have have had them convert 2 radios. That front speaker set up has like two 2 1/2" speakers attached to a frame that goes right in where the old speaker was. The old speaker was 3x9 or something? Ask them...

My aftermarket solid state IVR caused my fuel gauge to be extremely lazy. I put my old factory IVR back in and my fuel gauge is normal again. The only reason it was changed was the new IVR came with a new circuit board.

Well, the diaphragm is easy to push in, and requires the overcenter spring be removed, it's in the framework above the clutch pedal. Something is off, without being there and being the one that put it together, not sure what to tell you. Just check everything. It's possible you have a...

This has gotten so confusing to me. So as long as we stay on the blue wire, alt, ballast, voltage regulator, with a 2 Amp fuse, we're good.

Studs don't really get torqued. Does the hole have a crack? Those head threads should be clean and dry. Use high temp thread sealer, though it's in a water jacket, it is next to an exhaust port. I use a Permatex product. Not in the shop to give you a number.

I have the green bearings in my Dana. Yes, both sides need to be the same. No adjustment on the greens, just push the axles in till the snap ring stops it. There will always be a big debate over factory taper and green bearings.

Sounds like a Borg & Beck 3-finger. Was the clutch removed a diaphragm? The 3-finger requires a heavy overcenter spring. Also, did you resurface the flywheel?

Are we having the same problem here that we have with fuel sending units? I removed my solid state IVR because of something that I read on some thread. My fuel gauge was very slow to react, so I put my old IVR back in, bam, fuel is normal again. I had to replace my circuit boards and...

My #1405

Yes. 15/16" bore, I think. Manual.

This is in my Dart. Has the groove for locking the pushrod . You can use a piece of vacuum hose to lock the pushrod in if your old one is bad.

They just lay pretty close to where they are plugged in to the switches, above the column and lay at the bottom of the dash.