Recent content by dfrazz

Wiener dog soup

Yes, this fixed the light. The switch being on the shifter was news to me too on a ‘68. My understanding is starting in ‘69 it was moved to the transmission with a 3-prong plug.

Road Runner Soup (being a Mopar guy)

Posted a video on how to replace the switch on a center console '68 to help anyone that needs it.

Where does these holes on the rear bumper mount? Anyone else’s look like this?

Welcome! Replacing carpet is a good time to add sound deadener if the car doesn't have any. I like FatMat but there are plenty options out there though.

Feel free to add yours….

My channel is 303Mopar - https://youtube.com/@303mopar?feature=shared

I've run the Mallory 110 pump on my 505 stroker and 408 stroker now and really like it. It is arguable the quietest pump on the market and does a great job.

When installing the new switch, move the shifter into drive first. The bolt holes on the switch bracket are oblong so you can slide the switch back and forth to the correct position to engage the shifter when in reverse. After the switch is installed, check to make sure the shifter is engaging...

I unplugged the 2-prong wire connector and used the wobbly socket to remove the two bottom bolts. You can see here the switches compared to each other and the lever that must engage the shifter.

The lever on my switch that engages the shifter to activate the reverse lights was broken off. The lever is spring loaded and moves to the forward position when the shifter is in park, then back in reverse to activate the switch and reverse lights, and further back after the shifter is in...

Finally replaced the switch and thought I would add some pointers here to help anyone else trying to do this. The switch is held in with two 3/8” bolts on the bottom of the bracket and very difficult to reach with a tool. The metal bracket holding the plastic switch interferes with the bolt head...

I just added these 2” sq steel tubing to my ‘68 Charger. I’ve done this subframe on other b and e bodies and it is an inexpensive alternative that greatly improves the solid feel of the car. I actually cut into the cross-brace and rear subframe, slide the steel tube into both and then weld it...

I ended up doing a lot of work on the Charger this winter, once of which was to dig into the LCA's. The driver bushing was shot so I had both LCA bushings replaced and that fixed the issue. Thanks for all your help!