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Adjuster is for 11" brakes... 10" brakes..

Well that helps... If you need to replace the pinion seal you just torque the pinion nut, you don't need to worry about a crush sleeve allowing the bearing reload to change...

Did he use a crush sleeve eliminator? Or a crush sleeve?

It was securely bonded to the steel... But it wasn't even close to an invisible repair.... The first time I saw the car I knew there was filler on both front fenders... I just didn't know why.... Pretty simple really if you consider beating a dent into a previously straight panel then filling...

If the pushrod is extended to far the brake pedal will be right up to the top and the drums will have drag if you try to spin them... You shouldn't need to slam on the brakes, backing up & hitting the brakes fairly normal should cycle the adjusters... I would do more of that and reevaluate....

We already covered this...

Hopefully a pair will pop up... Might give Tony D a call... I'm sure they wouldn't be cheaper but at this point in your build your gonna need them...

I think the Charger ones are wider... And I have no idea on length...

Helping a friend who wants to paint his car himself... I'm just providing guidance.. We've started stripping paint, gonna take everything down to bare metal... I'd noticed there was some filler on both front fenders... I hadn't put together why... Now I have... They brazed up some emblem...

After posting the above, this popped up in my feed... Kinda confirms my post...

Scroll down to post 99 https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/the-gtx-1969-plymouth-gtx.266662/page-5

Those mount your rear stainless trim... It bends 90 degrees and extends down behind the felts

Oval Head countersunk sheet metal #8 x 1/2" black oxide...

Not only no consequences but cops that aren't willing to investigate.... A hidden GPS tracker is great, it allows you to know where your car is at all times, someone leans on your car & you are notified within seconds... But if it gets stolen the cops aren't willing to get involved.... So you...

The stall speed shouldn't effect shift points, the governor controls shift points.... Usually guys are fighting early shifts so high shift speeds could point to a sticking spool in the governor..

My previous house had a pair of Avocado trees... I had thousands of Avocados every year... And I don't like Avocados.... I use to give away grocery sacks full of the things....

Considering he just bought the car I don't consider it his fault that things are not in the condition they should be.... I do agree with @Geoff 2 that that new engine won't have any support from the builder.... Just the distance alone was insulation enough, now changing ownership? Forget...

That was my first thought as well.. But then I checked the conversion rate, it's around 20K US.. Which is still a lot, but it's been shipped from the US to Australia, the import duties have been paid & it was probably 16K or more to build... So who's the builder?

There are a few variations.. early cars used a #4 inverted flare up till around 67? next version was a #5 inverted flare till 72 and starting in 73 they went to a O ringed bubble flare... The steering box has a O ring boss connection that on later boxes still accepts O ring boss fittings but is...

Yeah, makes sense, black stripes on a black hood would just be black... Guess I need to wake up before asking dumb questions... LOL..