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Not an AF vet but I was stationed on and worked on Air Bases for 28 years. Just no F4 stationed there.

From seat of the pants feel I noticed the difference most in first gear on my basically stock, rather heavy 67 GTX with AC, power 215/75-15 radials and TF. With the 3.23 it could easily break the tires loose off the line in first just by hitting the throttle. But as the tires gradually started...

The Skyraider was certainly a work horse and then some.

Maybe a brick but if I remember right they held a number of speed records in the early 60s for some time and one did a zoom climb to over 98,000 ft.

Not around here in my old cars. Interstate 30/40 interception here in Little Rock area has nothing but grill to bumper truck traffic. One of the highest concentrations of truck traffic in the nation. They are death grounds. I won’t even drive on them in my daily driver.

Is that a current video - just now being retired? I was always a fan of the F4 growing up in the Viet Nam years and seeing news clips of them being launched for missions. But the biggest impression was seeing a National Guard F4 at a Little Rock AfB air show in the 80s. He came streaking down...

If you have some pitting you want to hide, I’ve used 3M structural panel adhesive epoxy and squeegeed over it and sanded it out. I like to think it added back some of the strength the pitting took out.

I like the 3.55/3.54 gear sets. A 3.73 used to be my favorite but now that I have 2 Plymouths with 3.55/3.54, it’s my new favorite

Back about 1970 I put a 280 degree Crowler (I think) cam in my 64 Sport Fury 383 and it really hurt it off the line. I’m not sure a bit more compression will help much. More like better heads and looser converter or bit better gearing.

I would run the lightest multi-viscosity oil (10w-30, 10w-40, 15w-40, 20w-50) that will still give you 20 psi at hot idle. I personally think synthetic oil is a waste in old cars with a carbureted engine that only get driven a thousand miles +/- a year and changed every year or two. Carbs are...

Popping back through the carb is often a sign of a lean mixture - which on a cold start without a choke is what you have. I would see if there isn’t a choke kit available for it and install it, even with just a manual cable although an electric choke operator is probably available for it.

I used Corroseal converter on some surface rust on my floorboards a few weeks ago and was pretty impressed with it. At least you can witness it doing something as the white liquid turns the rust pitch black. Whether it really stabilizes rust long term :rolleyes:

The rear retractors were a separate option from the front I was told. My 66 has both but I don’t know if that’s OEM from the factory. I did not know seat belts and retractor boots were separate for the front. Some of these order options were a lot more unusual back then than I realized. Just...

Boots didn’t come on the front ones?

I would love to see a reasonably priced 66 BB hood ornament. But not going to pay a high price for an original as long as a 67 can sit there. Same for Satellite body trim while we are at it.

I think I would double check my wiring to the board connections. Provided that makes sense - I’m only familiar with the 66 tach and sender board.

I pretty much fit in that study group.

Adams sounds like good stuff. At $150 it should be. :thumbsup:

That is unusual. My old 64 Sport Fury lacked a clock so I was unaware of that little detail.

The metal pedal pad.