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Yup, something is moving, initially it takes away the free play, as the torque increases the engine shifts further and reaches the point the clutch releases partially..

Well that helps... If you need to replace the pinion seal you just torque the pinion nut, you don't need to worry about a crush sleeve allowing the bearing reload to change...

Did he use a crush sleeve eliminator? Or a crush sleeve?

The stall speed shouldn't effect shift points, the governor controls shift points.... Usually guys are fighting early shifts so high shift speeds could point to a sticking spool in the governor..

Considering he just bought the car I don't consider it his fault that things are not in the condition they should be.... I do agree with @Geoff 2 that that new engine won't have any support from the builder.... Just the distance alone was insulation enough, now changing ownership? Forget...

That was my first thought as well.. But then I checked the conversion rate, it's around 20K US.. Which is still a lot, but it's been shipped from the US to Australia, the import duties have been paid & it was probably 16K or more to build... So who's the builder?

It depends purely on luck.... If you think your quick enough to shut down an engine before damage occurs consider this... At 3000 RPM the piston will travel up and down it's bore 50 times per second... Pure luck... Period...

Well that eliminates a lot of things... Either exhaust or something is transferring from the engine to the body... Engine mounts,Trans mount, exhaust touching a body part not isolated by a rubber mount...

Yup, pinion angle.. Watch the video, pay attention to the noise/rhythm at around 1:10 that is a signature of a pinion angle problem...

Gotta throw in my thoughts on hydraulic vs solid lifters whether flat tappet or roller... The reason for hydraulics is no maintenance... But honestly replacing valve cover gaskets once in a while since we all know they are gonna leak isn't a big deal... Why is running the valves while replacing...

Did you try blocking the hydraulic plunger so it remains topped out while testing? I've never tried it on a hydraulic roller but do it when testing FT hydraulics....

End of the day I'm gonna take it apart and see what's inside... If it needs better parts I'll get better parts...

Easy Tiger... :lol: I didn't suggest that you did... Just pointed out a couple reasons I don't see any reason for concern on Greg's part...

But honestly how many of us drive these cars when it's below 40 degrees? And those same looser clearances in a HP engine that lead to lower oil pressure means thicker oil isn't restricted by tight clearances...

Like the title sez... I have a PK53009261 looks like in could be a V8 version of an A500 RH42

Oh, I have lots of the standard 8.75 pinion shims but shimming the cup isn't the factory method on an 8.75... & while I haven't checked I doubt the Dana shim fits the 8.75 bore...

Sounds like tweaking the kickdown linkage would be a good starting point... 1-2 shift should occur at under 20 mph under light throttle... So 25-30 points to high TV (throttle valve) AKA kickdown pressure.. 45-50 2-3 confirms that... When you lift it shifts earlier because the kickdown pressure...

That's a good option but it can be hard to source the proper shims... Unless you'd like to share your source...

Exactly what I was gonna suggest... And somewhere in the .025-.035 zone...