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I will gladly look into your issue. Please PM your information. I will need your full name, address to where the product was shipped and approximate time of purchase. All the bars that we sell are marked (forge stamping) with an L or an R on the end and our part number regardless of zero...

Here is a good link to a photo step by step on replacement/installation. https://blog.drivenrestorations.com/2016/03/1968-1970-b-body-mopar-windshield.html Ive done about a dozen or so install on various cars. If you take your time and second set of hands you should be good.

I'll be willing to supply the rope. My fault completely My head has been spinning as I bounce between various forums ( other forums that we sponsor besides mopar) and techs. I drop the ball and got confused.

That was my mistake I double checked the Blue Prints today with our forge and there is a 20 clocking designated for the L and the R sides. I had actually worked with Andy Finkbeiner on the engineering of the these bar years back and test fitting. He is the same individual that wrote the torsion...

I would like to the apologize for my miss information in the earlier posts. I had confused myself and over thought it. What I have researched is that the part number ending in a odd number would be for the Driver side where as a even number would be passengers side.

I stand correct they use two part numbers. I have checked the a 72 Mopar Parts book quickly. If you look at the line listed "440 Engne All" and span over, the part number reads 2269 578-9. I quickly read that as one part number. When in fact it is 2 part numbers 2269 578 and 2269 579. The...

Original bars do not have an L and R on them and the used the same part number for both sides. I suggest to many of our customers to mark the ends of their torsion bars prior to removal with either an L & R or put a P or D. On our 1.03 bars that we sell we actually had the forge put an L and R...

If you have any questions about the products that we offer for your mopar let me know. I will be more than happy to give you some various options. Thanks James

Measure the distance from the center of the sector shaft to the center of the stud on the pitman arms if they measure the same distance then you should be fine with the replacement. The key is to have the distance the same between the to. Thanks James

I don't if this will help but we off full disk brake conversion kits for your car, we offer a factory looking OEM type and a aftermarket type here are the links to the two. http://www.p-s-t.com/s.nl/it.A/id.9804/.f?sc=12 http://www.p-s-t.com/s.nl/it.A/id.7983/.f?sc=12 Thanks James

We have a new booster available if you don't want to have yours rebuilt. Here is the thread and picture they are made to look like the original and come with the firewall bracket http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?47155-Mopar-Power-Brake-Boosters-New-for-2013 James

Two Words Come To Mind:Tetanus Shot But on a serious note that is a lot of rust. It would be a gamble on what would come back after having it sand blasted. I have been there and still am. My Fathers first car was a 66 Ford Falcon (1yr body style) and the car I am building right now looks as bad...