FYI, I found the study:
http://journals.openedition.org/metropoles/4970#tocto1n3
Remember what I said about the
media intentionally omitting details and/or context in order to make the study provocative? That's what happened here, and we're all falling for it. Those Rate My Professor comments even threw me off the track too.
It's unfortunate, as this study does a pretty good job of exposing how some San Diego "farmers' markets" are becoming kitsch cash cows - read on:
For starters:
- The study examines farmers' markets within the City of San Diego exclusively (plus an emphasis on three specific markets).
- The study specifically examines how some farmers' markets are being created by speculative organizations, using the markets to boost the perceived quality of life in already affluent areas and piggybacking off city assistance and money.
- Apparently, some farmers' markets in less affluent areas are not really serving the community with local-grown content as much as they're thinly-veiled advocacy arms of the local wholesalers or retailers looking to increase profits.
None of this is mentioned in the news articles - these few additional details already paint an extremely different point of view for this study, wouldn't you say?
Take a look at these paragraphs from the research paper:
"Farmers’ markets are typically run by nonprofit organizations. However, a variety of organizational forms fall under the “not-for-profit” category, leading to much debate regarding the validity of such a term in describing some of the local actors. In recent years, the management of farmers’ markets has become increasingly centralized and commercialized, with a few organizations, including for-profits, managing up to five markets in the county...Many of these larger organizations engage in expensive advertising and public relations campaigns, collaborating with local business associations to gain support..."
"Like most nonprofits, organizations managing farmers’ markets depend on state assistance, including support from city governments, county agencies and state programs – an aspect rarely acknowledged. The city primarily provides assistance regarding street closing, traffic and safety, which is critical in densely populated urban areas. In many cases, the land where markets take place is publically owned and is made available at no cost or for a minimal fee....For instance, in San Diego, the Fresh Fund program was created to match (up to twenty dollars per month) residents’ use of the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP or formerly Food Stamps), Women Infant and Children (WIC), Supplemental Security Income (SSI) or Social Security Disability Insurance (SSDI). Yet, only five markets participate in the program and less than one fifth currently accept EBT – the Electronic Benefit Transfer card that allows people to redeem government benefits electronically – suggesting that food security and affordability is not a priority..."
And in reference to the "Mercato" - a farmers' market in Little Italy:
While the Mercato boasts more than 140 vendors, less than 30 are certified farmers. The remaining vendors sell “artisan” foods (e.g., olives, sauces, breads, salt, spices and chocolate), prepared food and beverages, and specialty products (e.g., crafts, clothing, jewelry and tableware). In their weekly blog, market managers appeal to foodies and encourage shoppers to combine seasonal fresh produce with artisan foods and specialty ingredients sold at the market. For instance in September...recipes were provided for “pear marmalade with goat cheese and crackers”, “glazed chicken skewers”, and “Asian pear pizza with blue cheese, caramelized onions and walnut pesto”....Our research indicates that several of these producers are not located in San Diego County, do not grow food organically, and are far from affordable to people with limited income. Unlike in other markets, there are no efforts made to encourage connections with community gardens or other grassroots food initiatives..."
The point that these professors are trying to make is that the basic concept of a "farmers' market," namely,
a way for communities to share fresh foods amongst residents and grow local economy - is being hijacked into kitschy and overpriced street boutiques by major regional food suppliers looking to increase their profits.
Honestly, I'll revise everything I've said up to now -
this is a pretty in-depth study with a valid point, twisted beyond belief by a shock-loving media.
-Kurt