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Lowering gas tank for in-tank EFI pump?

HT413

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Hey here fellas. Pulled the trigger on the fitech EFI - super stoked - should be here soon. Decided to go with their in-tank pump kit (they call it Hy-Fuel).

Anyone have any ideas on how to permanently lower the tank for clearance? The kit sticks like an inch above the top of the tank.

I've seen some guys cut a hole through their trunk pan, but I'd rather not. I have some heavy vulcanized rubber matting for rooftop walkways / setting light equipment on commercial rooftops (maybe 1/2" thick). Was thinking of spacing it with that.

Bueno o no bueno?


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Wow is that thing PURDY ! ! !

I'm not there yet, but I've been thinking of cutting an access panel in the trunk so that if I need to get to the fuel pump in the future that I don't have to empty and drop the tank again . . . I know it'll be a pain ( for now ) - but simplifying my life in the future would be easier to do NOW, then to think about doing it later when my car is all put back together . . .

That's my $0.02 on the topic . . . Just a thought . . .
 
The best way to lower the tank is to use two wedges of ash wood that have a taper and are the same length as the tank. They are positioned on the top directly above the tank straps and you may actually have enough adjustment in the straps to accomodate the extra drop. I assume the pump is in the front right corner of the tank and the wedges actually tilt the tank towards the front ensuring the sock on the pump is always submerged in fuel especially if the tank is not internally baffled. If possible locate the wedges in the valley of two ripples on the top of the tank to prevent any side movement. You can secure the strips to the top of the tank using The Right Stuff silicon prior to raising the tank. The air gap at the top of the tank helps keep the fuel cell isolated from the trunk floor pan thus keeping the fuel cooler. Like the strips used between the frame and box of trucks, the wood pieces prevent slippage. If you go this route, you'll have to run a dedicated ground wire to the fuel level sender.
 
Weld a recess into the top of the tank. We did that for the wagon.
 
And there ya have it, 3 great responses and 3 ways to skin that cat. I suppose the 4th way is custom tank?

Yatz, interesting I'd never think to use wood. As far as placement, I'm thinking I'd just follow the lay of the land and pick the area that is flattest for a better seal. Planning on an aftermarket fuel cell - type of sender to get rid of the terrible aftermarket oem type senders that have plagued me for years.

I think I'll go Yahtzee's route 'for now', as I likely have a custom tank in my future. One day when I grow up, I'd like to put some tailpipes in instead of the downturns in front of the diff... and that might(?) need a custom tank so they can clear my 4 link and track bar.
 
X2, but I'd do it on a new tank. If you weld on a tank that has had gas in it, your asking for trouble.
 
X2, but I'd do it on a new tank. If you weld on a tank that has had gas in it, your asking for trouble.

Good point. I was thinking the same thing, but as I can't weld, all is well.
 
Hey here fellas. Pulled the trigger on the fitech EFI - super stoked - should be here soon. Decided to go with their in-tank pump kit (they call it Hy-Fuel).

Anyone have any ideas on how to permanently lower the tank for clearance? The kit sticks like an inch above the top of the tank.

I've seen some guys cut a hole through their trunk pan, but I'd rather not. I have some heavy vulcanized rubber matting for rooftop walkways / setting light equipment on commercial rooftops (maybe 1/2" thick). Was thinking of spacing it with that.

Bueno o no bueno?


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nice looking pump, but I would skip the hassles of modifying the tank/straps and just drop a new Spectra EFI tank in.
The Spectra tanks have walbro 225 lph pumps which should be good for almost 600 hp?
 
I'll be upgrading to an electric fuel pump, if I go with an in tank pump I'm lowering a section of the tank for it (cutting and welding). I don't want to lower the tank because the Chargers tanks are already really visible as it is... not sure about yours? Not a fan of the access hole in the trunk because mines carpeted (glued down) which means ripping it up to gain access besides Mopar tanks are one of the easiest to drop.

I just happened to come across a new tank at Summit in the scratch and dent area for next to nothing so I don't even have to air mine out.:thumbsup:
 
Do not use an arm sender if you can avoid it. The verticle tubular type are more accurate and are not sensitive to fuel slosh. Been using them for four years in two cars. Take your pick:

https://www.google.ca/search?q=tubu...YMKHdPFDpwQ_AUICigB&biw=1344&bih=701&dpr=1.25
They usually come in various lengths to accommodate different tank depths.
 
Thanks for the tip. Yeah that makes total sense.
 
They didn't make one for 67 cars, so we bought the tray, and grafted it into the tank. Turned out very nice.
 
Dan (HT413), Here's the new S/S tank with an in tank pump and the vertical tube sending unit from Rick's Tanks in El Paso. They custom made the tank to fit my 63 Fury. Expensive, but great quality and fit just right.

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i tacked welded some square tubing on the top of my tank to shim it down just enough so that the fuel line fittings and fuel sender connections did not rub against the trunk pan. i tossed a few pieces on different areas so the tank shimmed down evenly

that rubber mat would work just as long as you use it to shim down the tank clear fittings, lines, etc. from the trunk floor

your OE tank straps would probably work but you may need to make a longer hook - go to home depot


now im looking at that tube style sender. i am using the 0-90ohm tanksinc fuel sender also. follwed instructions and matched it to a 0-90 GM Autometer gauge. not the most accurate thing. 5 gallons of gas gets me from 1/4 full to 4/4 full. not completely linear.


watermelon

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