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Mini- starter options

chattacuda

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I understand the denso starter connections are close to the block even after you "shorten" them. My question is does anyone make one that has the connections in another location that is not so close to the block?
p863724861-4.jpg
 
After shortening the post I took a little off the block too
 
I wound up taking the starter apart and carefully removed the nut holding the main post to the solenoid. Then I removed the lockwasher and discarded it, and lock-tited the nut back on before reinstalling the starter. Now i have enough room to at least be ok for now. I am definitely going to look into this McRobb starter though for the future.
 
I wound up taking the starter apart and carefully removed the nut holding the main post to the solenoid. Then I removed the lockwasher and discarded it, and lock-tited the nut back on before reinstalling the starter. Now i have enough room to at least be ok for now. I am definitely going to look into this McRobb starter though for the future.

you get what what u pay for. i searched it out and i am hoping this will be the last one i put on.:happy7:
 
you get what what u pay for. i searched it out and i am hoping this will be the last one i put on.:happy7:

I hear you. I really dont think I will be able to swap starters without dropping the headers once it is in the car. I was only able to install it with the headers on because I had the steering box still off. I hope this one lasts a while!
 
If additional clearance is needed for the connection terminals on the starter, take a look at this photo:

ND_Starter_terminals.jpg


This shows different terminal adaptors made for this starter.

Pictured on the (short-frame) starter motor: Stock original RWD Dodge truck and van terminal adaptor. This is the type that came on 3.9, 5.2, and 5.9 engines.

Other adaptors pictured left to right next to the starter:

•Mitsu 3.0 V6 terminal adaptor

•2.2/2.5 4-cylinder terminal adaptor

•3.3 LH-car terminal adaptor (only for the battery cable; the solenoid trigger connects directly to the starter body without any adaptor).

You can get these bits at your local auto electrical rebuilding house. Here are the WAI part numbers (WAI/Transpo is a major worldwide supplier of rebuild parts for automotive rotating electricals). Also supplied are the Lester numbers for the three non-RWD variants of this starter assembly. Refer to the photo above for visual ID. Each setup requires three parts: The B+ (battery) terminal extension, the S+ (solenoid winding) terminal extension, and the plastic insulator block.

For the RWD 3.9/5.2/5.9:
------------------------------------------
Terminal block, includes B+ and S+ extensions: 76-82568
Cover, motor housing B & S terminals: 72-82100

For the 3.0L starter (Lester No. 17020):
------------------------------------------
Insulator block: 72-82101
B+ extension: 76-82556
S+ extension: 76-82557

For the 2.2L/2.5L starter (Lester No. 17007):
------------------------------------------
Insulator block: 72-82102
B+ extension: 76-82562
S+ extension: 76-82563

For the 3.3L LH starter (Lester No. 17460):
---------------------------------------------
Insulator block: 72-82104
B+ extension: 76-82566
Cover: 72-82103

Since I'm posting this info, I'll go a step further and post this link, which contains detailed information (including P/Ns) for solenoid repair on the ND mini starter. This is practically the only repair ever required on those starters.

Be careful when you're shopping for one of these starters; most of the "100% New!!!!!" ones you find on the internet and at parts stores are Chinese knockoff junk, not real Denso units. A used real one is a much better bet than a new counterfeit one.
 
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