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I'm sure I have some in my bolt buckets, but I would use the correct ARP bolts on any new build.

Thank you. The '71 Satellite was one of my favorites, behind the '70 Cuda & '65 Ply post. Good luck with the project.

A really dumb question, what year is that car? My memory is fading. It sure looks like a real good project.

My experience with numerous leaf spring combinations is you just need to try a few locations. I used SS hose clamps to figure things out. On my drag cars I quit using the snubber. For a street ride I'd keep it. I used flat stock & bolted on the rear halve to control the spring reaction. You can...

I recall the slingers were still used at least thru '72 even with the double lip seals. I'd use one. I used the roller cam button on my drag motors for years. But I measured the cam movement to be sure where things were. IIRC I was looking for less than .005 thrust with either the flat tappet or...

I guess I'm glad I kept my 3690258 box and the coil & ballast resistor. It ran past 7000 RPM and never failed in two seasons. Even if it's old sounds like better than a lot of new stuff. Even it's a "race only" part I bet it outlasts a lot of modern stuff. Just say'in.

Ya, mine were both the style with the rear tube going out through the wheel well. My Coronet had been cut for that.

Back in the day I had numerous sets of valve covers. I had a set of chrome (not sure brand) junk, M/T cast black crinkle real good, another chrome that was real good (forget the brand), Mopar Blue thin anodized aluminum (pretty good if I was real careful with the bolts).

Sure never heard of harder input shafts. Over the years I've had many standard style 727's and a couple Hemi's & some HD style as parts cores. Mostly used the Turbo Action combination with their 5 disc into 4 drum combination. My last few I've done for customers have used Cope parts and his thin...

Mine charged at about 14 V. Did not seem to cause any battery issues.

The Hooker looks like a great deal. Back in the day I ran the adjustable Hookers on my '65 Coronet. I mostly ran the 2" primary on my 426 or 440 motors. I did try the 2 1/8" style to. The 2 1/8" didn't provide any real improvement compared to the 2". I'm pretty sure the 2 1/8 would like a...

When I bought my Satellite it had the single bolt style with very slight elongated on the holes that mount to the tail shaft housing. It is fine. Not sure about the later model version and which trans crossmember is needed for that. On my '65 Coronet I switched from the 4 spd to a 727. The...

It is the "constant output" style. I wouldn't use that style for long drives, but mine seems just fine for the 25 mile street drives I do.

The Auto Meter 2 5/8" are easy to read and sure seem accurate combined with the Auto Meter Sport Comp tach are real good.

For many years in my drag cars I ran the Direct Connection SW cable tach & Hemi distributor, great combo. I currently have an Autometer Comp with a shift lite. It's very nice.

In the '70-80's I was not impressed with Onange box. But just my opinion. I hope Mancini has verified the ChiCom quality.

Looks as close to an RT as you get, without the badges.

Going to the larger valve will not sink the valve much if any. The performance key is what's below the seat. A modern "deep cut" valve job will do pretty much of the job. An old school pocket port makes a lot of difference.

On my '65 Coronet used a chain/turnbuckle for a while, the made my own solid mounts, 2x3 rectangular. Worked perfectly. A drag car.

I wouldn't have ANY slack, That creates imapct. NO GOOD. A turnbuckle is on option, a solid motor mount is another.