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...on here. My ignition system quit, so I upgraded to the Progression and took Geoff 2 advice and gave the engine lots of timing. I ended up at 42* at idle and my carb problems went away, along with the major unburnt gas smell. I now can get the tires to spin just by stabbing the gas.
I'm now...
...to @Geoff 2 for sharing the articles about timing. It was spot on for my combination of low compression and bigger cam. I have the timing set at 42* locked out and my carb problems are gone with no changes since ignition swap. With the timing locked out at 37* it would give me a cough and a...
...else going forward, my issue was two fold. I went back through the set up and I was a couple degrees off, both in my crank rotation being set at 10* and not quite lined up on the black 10* marks on the distributor. Fixed all that and timing is back to normal, my timing was retarded on the...
I will need to go through the wiring. The car started out with the lean burn, switched to Mopar electric ignition before I bought it 28 years ago. I am switching to a Progression ignition unit that requires 12+ volts at all times. I ended up running a dedicated wire to the battery with a switch...
I went back and looked at the FSM for my car and the brown wire that is switched goes to the EGR timer not the ballast resister. The other brown wire out of the starter relay is the ballast resister bypass for starting.
This car starts and runs, but every switched 12v wire is showing ~11 volts...
The car is a 1977 Cordoba with 400. I am trying to find a switched wire that has full 12 volts. In checking the car every wire that is switched only has ~11 volts. I have went to the starter relay and I have 12.6 volts on the red wire but when I go to the brown wire that goes to the ballast...
I could not get the car to idle at 10*, had to crank it up to 1600rpm. I started at 20* and worked up to 35* at idle. Timing light was the same as app's reading until I went to 32* the app went to 31* and the timing light was 31*. I went to 34* and then 35* in the app and timing in app was 31*...
...driven it yet as I have some other things that need sorted. One thing I ran across in trying to up the idle timing is it won't go farther than 31*. When I set it to 35* it is in the program but will max out at 31* and the timing light agrees its at 31*. I feel my 10* BTDC starting point was...
I am looking at getting the Progression unit and wanting to know if the code you get is tied to you or the distributor? Can the code be transferred to a new owner, if you sell the car or motor?
Funknut - Any updates on how its working.
Just an update. It was not my timing light that quit, it was my ignition system. I went to start the motor up the next day to continue tuning the carb, it was missing and backfiring out the exhaust. Motor would not idle only run badly if given throttle, then it would not run at all. Pulled #1...
...light quit working. I put the idle mixture back to the Eddy starting point of 2 1/2 turns out and adjusted the idle speed screw to get 800 rpm at 26* with vacuum advance unhooked. I advanced the timing and the idle increased to 1050 rpm taking little steps at a time. I ended up at 42* at idle...
Again, thank you for the articles. The cam choice was because I was looking at the Hughes Whiplash cam which was suppose to help a low C/R engine. At the time, Hughes cam was out of stock and the Thumper cam had almost the same specs ( more lift on the whiplash). So that is why I went with it...
...on the transfer slot in the carb. I changed the metering springs per Geoff2's reply in another thread, now the rods stay seated. Timing is at 26* at 850 rpm. I worked on the carb last night and it will idle with the choke on, but as soon as the choke opens up it dies. I turned the idle...
Timing is set at 26* (little higher than I thought it was set at.). The 2 1/2 turns on the idle set screws was what Edelbrock states is the factory (get you started) setting. I was shocked at reading 7/8 turns. I was asking if it was normal, so I will be turning the screws out.
493 MIke - How...
Have a Eddy AVS 800cfm carb on my stock smogger 77 400. The bottom end is stock with stealth heads, comp thumper cam, performer intake, headers, and AVS carb. I have been fighting this carb's idle on this set up for the 8 years since. It idles if I use the transition slot, but wants to die in...
Where is the best place to get a rebuilt brake booster. My car is a 77 Chrysler Cordoba and the factory service manual states I have the Bendix single diaphragm booster. Local auto parts store, online store, or ??? I get the hiss when pressing the pedal and my brake light comes on. TIA