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Why the crazy implosion of Chrysler, Dodge and Harley-Davidson makes perfect sense. And why it is part of a grand plan, that benefits China.

That’s nice to know. I got it confused with 2nd gen B-Bodies. Two weeks ago, I was searching all over that trunk lip looking for it. It does have the VIN on the cowl.

Regarding continuing to run a 26” radiator on a 22” core support, I’m not seeing how that is possible with the core support that is in my car, so that the fan blade is centered left to right in the shroud. I’m not seeing that there’s any room to drill new radiator bolt mounting holes further...

I decided not to do anything to this car until the summer has passed. That radiator is going to stay in there until October..

Interesting to hear that the only way for this car to get a 26” radiator was an axle package or A/C.. Being an N96 car we know there’s no way it could’ve possibly had A/C. I recently talked to a guy who has a Green Go 1971, 383 automatic Super Bee. He has had his since 1985, like forever...

Yes, me cutting the core support has a high probability of it looking butchered afterwards.. And I don’t have the proper cutting tool to attempt it. Four years ago, I back-flushed the engine, forward-flushed the radiator, and back and forward-flushed the heater core. I used water and...

Here are some photos of the Jerry-rigged 26” radiator on the 22” support. Green circles show where a correct 22” radiator would mount. Red circles are where someone drilled holes in the support to mount the 26” radiator to it. I mounted my power steering cooler to the 22” holes on the driver...

The 1971 Dodge chassis manual shows radiator part #3443961-22” for a 1971 Charger 383 Magnum, 727 auto, w/o A/C. My support’s factory mounting holes are 24.5” apart horizontally and 14.5” apart vertically (on both sides). So far, I’ve found only one set of photos of this exact radiator. Which...

Removing the 22” support and installing a 26” support is not an option for me. So I figure the best thing to do, is to obtain a 22” radiator that will fit the support that is currently in the car. And a 22” radiator that can handle a mostly stock 383 Magnum, though with a larger than stock...

I’ve been absent from the forum for a long time. The Super Bee couldn’t handle a 12 mile drive in 101 degree temp, here in AZ, last Sunday. It overheated.. After the radiator puked its fluid out (close to 1/3 of a gallon of it), I saw what is, at least, one of the car’s cooling problems. An...

A tale about a car “that matters”. Probably won’t be the last one.

Yes. I installed a new metering valve one year ago this month. Bought from Dr. Diff. It has completely and totally failed this past Sunday. The main proportioning / distribution block (which also came from Dr. Diff) has always weeped at the drum brake inlet connection. The metering block...

I did a full rebuild / replacement of the entire hydraulic system on my 71 Super Bee almost a year ago. It has disc front, drum rear. 100% factory setup with the original Bendix single diaphragm booster. The repro metering valve has failed in only a manner that Chinese junk can. It was...

I’m replying to this thread because the same thing has happened to my car. After taking a long break from the Super Bee, I decided to change the oil today. Looking under the car I found brake fluid on the concrete. More than a few drops, so I placed a small bread pan under it, then attempted...

My 1/16 Tamiya Tiger 323, of the Muncheberg division, abandoned in Berlin, near the Brandenburg Gate, May 2nd 1945. It is a radio controlled Infrared battle tank. I’ve had it since 2009. It fights against other 1/16 tanks, here in AZ, at the DAK Tank Club battlefield. It could use a paint...

Only 4 quarts total capacity with which filter size (OEM 1068 or the longer length 1515)? I have a NAPA Gold 1515 filter on my 383 (with 402 pan and OE dipstick & tube). I’m way past due to change my oil (based on time, not mileage). I can’t remember how much it took to reach the full mark...

The cam specs in my car are unknown. After connecting the rebuilt booster, the brakes seem to work adequately. I’m able to stop the car and don’t have to apply much pressure with my foot on the pedal to do so. I’ve only driven the car one time, at speeds up to 60 mph, since I completed the...

Ran the engine and to my amazement the pedal actually stopped before hitting the floor! I was fully expecting it to hit the floor again. The pedal goes firm now before bottoming out! It’s about time… I backed off the star wheels about 2 clicks and drove this big bitch of a Bee for the first...

Further investigation shows the post on the brake shoe, that the adjuster arm and spring attach to are not the same length on each side.. The post on the passenger side is 14mm tall. The driver side post is 12mm tall. Sounds like horrid quality control by whoever manufactured the shoe on the...

After actually removing the driver side drum, I can now see that the adjuster arm is ALWAYS in engaged with the teeth on that side of the car. I’ll need to replace the adjuster arm spring on the passenger side, as I guess it is no good..