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welcome and the run to RKN is always a blast. if you still have that 440 I’m guessing you can save it. I launched a rod like that through the pan of my Coronet Superbee and everything turned out just fine in the end, now it has more power than ever

As far as the never failed to start it ver well could be working but it could have cycled it to neutral and tried again to start. It’s never left me on the road like that. The car’s linkage vs the gear selection on the trans had a miss and that was about 1/4” but it wasn’t anyways. I had a...

The NSS has never been a reliable tool on this car. I have never verified that it works outside of “park” or “neutral” and not even sure it is those. As the column doesn’t show those are the actual gears that are secreted but close as there is a little slop. The NSS has been far down my list of...

I got the car up on the stands again today and measured the transmission and the park rod is 1-3/4” with slack and 2” with the spring pulled. This is the same on the back up trans. So I put it back together and actuated it a few more times and I had park every time on the stands. No clicks or...

I’m trying to do this from memory but there 100% is a spring on it and if I pull the park rod towards the rear the spring returns it towards the nose of the car. The post 5 was one I read through this morning before I went to work on it because I was thinking I could have a 904 rod. I do not...

Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to take that idea on. When I put the tail shaft on today I only loosened up the valve body I didn’t take it off. I had a little trepidation on removing the whole valve body. As it does have all of the gears just no park. And I’m working on jackstands on the...

Last year I lost park but only about 80% of the time I did. So I went down the rabbit hole of reasons why and one thing after another I have tried what I thought of everything and here is why I am not deferring to the hive mind for help! I have attached some photos and a list of what I have...

Well the o2 sensor is fouled. I also talked to AEM to verify some information about it and they said that the 110/leaded will foul any o2 sensor very quickly and that they said it’s a tune and pull the sensor. So it’s hooped. But my plug is melted so that will take some work to get undone and...

The H pipe in a straight line is about 1.5 foot in a curve is about 2ft. I was able to get a new gasket for it, but was not able to start it up and run it down the road. I ran out of time yesterday. I had a lot of little things come up when I was running around Yesterday… side note. When your...

not sure, good idea. I can try and look up the manual, it is the AEM Classic Wide Band o2 sensor that you weld in and have the gauge in the cluster. I did see that a ziptie failed too and there may be some heat damage too. So the whole system may be Damaged. where the o2 sensor plug meets...

It wasn’t upstream but it was near the sensor can’t be having an open H pipe…I went to take it for a quick rip with the hood off to make sure I could see and hear everything and I think the last bolt fell out because I heard a not quite good noise so I turned around real quick and pulled into my...

That is about where I usually sit at idle on start up. But then it went super fat then super lean it was weird. I get off work in a couple hours I’ll get the TIC out and see if all the cylinders are doing their jobs and then if I have a leak. And what I’m sitting at. I missed the leaded gas...

It still seems to run just the same, it does not have a dead spot in the power, it doesn’t pop, back fire, hiss, stumble nothing, it just seems like the gauge is acting like it’s in the background of a star wars scene. the only time it truly seems to be any different than dead on accurate is...

So I have had a super regular AFR since I got my last tune all set up in my car. Until last night….I usually Only worry about it mostly when I am hot rodding around or making a pass with my car but I always keep an eye on it just like it‘s oil pressure because if you have it why not. So...

I’m interested, message sent. Edited I was the one at the pm limit.

The general service is the same as most older cars Lots of awesome info http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109

The 2 is the second revision of the casting! So the mold started to get worn they repaired them cleaned them up and then put them back in the line. The shift usually ended up on the engine info pad but not always. lower numbers for the revision is better. Less fixes to the mold

I had Accel 90’s ceramic boots for a while and they worked very well but I burned a wire. I would still look at DEI’s extreme heat boots. There is some that have a low direct temp rating and one of the DEI’s has a high direct contact rating. They will help a lot on the wire side. I also try...

Exhaust leak confirmed on the collector flange. I have a new wire in place and have it covered with a DEI wire sleeve and a boot protectors.

I had those in before the yellow wires, didn't think I was going to lose them. I had/have the 90 degree ends I think I might order a set again with straight ends or the " LS " 135 degree I can see how it looks like an exhaust leak, my rookie ears don't hear the tick tick like a single leak...