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I'll be there! Flying in from the NYC area, can't wait! Really looking forward to seeing the factory lightweight cars.

Holy crap that pedal is awesome! Thanks for alerting me to it. Much cleaner solution than the kind that mount on the firewall.

It's the same concept as disc brakes - hydraulic actuation of a puck-like part acting on a spinning disc to slow/or stop it and then release it so it can resume spinning if no action is needed on it. The caliper piston can't have a long way to travel because it needs to be instant for obvious...

All that red wire does is turn the ECU on - I doubt that's what is causing your hard starting issues since it does not have anything to do with the tuning aspect of the system. By gutting the B.R., you essentially have IGN 1 and 2 tied together already and have a switched 12v source. You'd have...

Actually, Holley has several EFI forums. Holley Sniper Forum I had a thread a few years ago here where I documented a lot of what it took to convert my old '68 Coronet to EFI. '68 Coronet EFI/4 speed

NOTHING. There are no reliable switched 12V sources under the hood if everything is mostly stock electrically. There really is no easily accessible switched 12v source on any muscle-era Chrysler product. What ignition are you using? If you're not using the Hyperspark there's little point in...

So basically what this boils down to is that you can get away with an 8 3/4" instead of a Dana because of the clutch slip. All else being equal that's 100lbs. Perhaps that would also translate to smaller U joints and yokes too. Not sure if there is anything else to consider. Don't know how much...

C'mon man, don't try to use any of that pesky logic around here, it's cool to say you have titanium timing cover bolts!

Totally agree. These cars are the equivalent of McMansions. The original essence of the car is lost and they become generic show queens with all the over-the-top street rodification. I'd rather see '60s-'70s Day 2 drag-style builds or a circa 1970 Trans Am type car that is all business. Save...

While you're at it might as well replace these fasteners as well; Fuel pump block off Distributor clamp and bolt Oil pan bolts Intake manifold bolts Carburetor studs and nuts Valve cover studs and nuts Water pump bolts Timing cover bolts T-stat housing bolts Alternator bracket and belt adjuster...

While not sneaky or crafty, I installed a Kirkey aluminum seat in my Duster today. With the cushion/cover the seat is about 13-14lbs. The seat floor brackets are probably a pound each? To finish the job I will need to install a seat back brace and then a harness. Should be around 20 lbs when all...

I'll just leave this here. But then... That's grams... do the math.

I tend to agree with eliminating the dipstick, especially on a big block where it has to snake through the headers and generally gets in the way when working around that area. When my 340 block was machined I had the port tapped with pipe thread to accept a fitting so I could plug it...

Might sound corny but trim an ounce from 16 places and you got a pound. And so on and so forth. This is about critical thinking, not picking parts out of a catalog or even accepting things as they are. The idea is to look at every single part on the car (no matter how mundane or insignificant...

I understand the idea but just want to clarify the fact that you wouldn’t drive on the street with those turned drums unless you want instant brake fade. I actually hope they work OK when going rounds. Besides the inner surface acting as the friction surface that the shoes press on, the drums...

Should be fine. Yes, the K frame is a stressed member of the chassis but the outer frame rails flex more. I don't think the K member would flex at all if you have a motor plate and/or a mid plate since the engine is essentially tied into the frame. DVW does not have the gusset plate in his and...

Here is the QA1 K member in my Duster. By itself, their K frame essentially weighs the same as a stock one. They claim that if you use their entire front end, (tubular A arms, tubular LCAs, adjustable strut rods) you save 18 lbs off the front. Most of the weight savings is in the strut rods...

About 15 years ago a guy named Bondo Bob from somewhere in Ohio was modifying stock K members. He'd cut out the middle part and put CM tubing in, it was like half stock/half tubular. He was making tube front ends for a while too. Have not seen him on Moparts in a long time, not sure if he is...

Naturally Mr. Knows Everyone. Be interesting to hear more details about this Poncho though. I'm sure fmj would love to be a fly on the wall for that conversation. 1 of 6 is pretty special and the way it came to be is a good story.