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I have Koni on both my cars. Fitted fine and work well.

For a roll start use second gear rather than first gear - a bit of a slope helps if one is close.

You have it in gear before you push start the motor or crank the starter.

Get it out on the road and bump start it. Drive along fairly slowly with the clutch pedal pushed down - it should come away fairly quickly. You could try a little stab on the gas if it stubborn but don't get carried away. Don't try the putty knife deal you will just damage the clutch disc.

The sway bar will be more effective with the plastic bushings as it does not have the "give" that rubber does. Lubricate the plastic so it does not squeak or wear out prematurely.

As both the converter and the crank are aftermarket I don't know which is out of spec and I don't have access to enough parts to try and work it out. If I had to guess I would say crankshaft. The job now is to make what the owner has work together. I will bore the crank deeper - that will work...

I agree with dvw. It pays to assume nothing is made right and check all you can.

Yes the converter was in the transmission correctly. The trans has been stripped just to make sure it is OK. It's not but that is another issue.

The torque converter was made by Dominator in Australia. I am not sure who manufactured the crankshaft at this point I do not have the engine stripped down yet. The engine is stroked out so it is for sure not stock crank. Either component could be the problem main cause. I am just going to...

The crank has to come out and be metal sprayed or replaced. At this stage fairly confident it can be repaired. I will put it in the lathe and machine the bore deeper. You are quite right it does pay to check everything you can. The guy that owns this car is not dumb but nor is he a mechanic...

Update on 505 worn out crankshaft thrust bearing I said I would post. Removed the sump and found the crank thrusts are only worn in the forward direction. I figured the crank was being pushed/loaded forward towards the radiator. Apart from the mashed bearing shells and a worn groove in the...

That loop hose is crimped over - you need to have water flow on the heater connections. The cooling system is designed to purge air out off the engine through the heater unit.

I would try another thermostat before you get to carried away. They are easy to replace and new is not a guarantee these days. I have had a good run with the Stant brand.

I am not sure if that bracket would make a difference. IMO if you go with the factory manual you are unlikely to be wrong. I will email you my diagram.

Yes the brake switch was working fine before and after the mod.

My cars are both factory power disc brake cars and I always felt the pedal was physically too low. The brakes always worked OK but I felt it went too close to the floor. I extended the rod by 8 mm and raised the pedal on both cars. Feels good now and not hard to operate. Make sure you clamp the...

I believe the power disc cars had a physically lower pedal height than a manual drum brake car would have needed. I extended the rod as Kern Dog has shown on my cars by cutting and welding in a piece of metal. I like the pedal being that bit higher and I think the brakes actually worked a little...

I have ben doing some more digging around on this. The Centric website lists the 102.00190 brake pads for the 1968 cars. This is wrong - I ordered this part number from Summit and assumed the picture was wrong. However it is not and these pads are for the Kelsey Hayes pin style callipers. I...

Most modern cars if you towed anything the transmission would blow up.

It is possible/probable the Ritter block was only machined for a roller cam to be fitted. Just a thought I have heard of them but I have never seen one.