1972 SSP Resto Mod / pro Touring, the build begins

[Paul_G]

This is a 72 400 automatic buckets console a/c car. Original arizona car almost rust free. Going all the way with this one.

 

[Paul_G]

Back from the stripper.

 

[Jerry Hall]

It's great that you are able to start with a car that looks almost 100% there, and rust free.

 

[Paul_G]

After blasting the only rust through on the entire car is small section on the rear of the trunk lid.

 

[70chall440]

Very cool.

 

[Paul_G]

The car is getting this.

 

[Paul_G]

Us car tool core support stiffener fitted and tacked in. The original had to come out. I bought a big 28" radiator that fits a 73/74 b body. That goes in next mounted on the passenger side only so I can mark the driver side of the core support. Then cut it off the radiator mounting portion and move it over the right amount. Then weld it back in.

 

[71Beeper]

Along with the core support stiffener, you should install the inner fender supports too.
I did that to mine.
They are for E-bodies but with a little tweaking they fit.

 

[Paul_G]

I have the full level 2 chassis kit. It took me about 4 hours of bending, cutting, pounding, repeat, just to get the front torque boxes to fit. The frame conectors and inner fender braces will take some triming and fitting as well. On US Car Tool website they will install the level 2 kit for you. $5000 for the labor. I guess they know it does not just fit in place easily.

 

[71Beeper]

I too put torque boxes in at front and back.
But the boxes came Resto Rick's.

 

[Paul_G]

I too put torque boxes in at front and back.
But the boxes came Resto Rick's.
View attachment 1699933

I like those better.

 

[Paul_G]

Core support cut. Took 2" out of the left side, welded back in. Now the 72 has a 28" 73/74 style radiator.

 

[Paul_G]

I am no welder by any stretch of the imagination. But they are deep enough to stay put.

Got the torque boxes welded in and started on the subframe connectors. Lots of cutting and grinding to get this far enough forward and high enough to the floor for a good weld. Still have some large gaps that can only be filled with extension plates.

 

[ckessel]

Looking good. Overhead welding is a pain for me. Like you, having a lift so you can stand under it while welding beats creeper diving any day. For my 65, the core support was pretty cut up during its previous life so I removed all of it and made my own. 1x2 bent with an arc for the main upper tie bar, small pieces to fill in under it to duplicate the original, 16ga side baffles, 1" square for vertical outer frame and tie in to rails. On the lower tie, used 2" square, found some 90* elbows, attached the unit to plates welded to the rails. The opening on the baffles allow complete flow to the radiator core. The condenser is by itself in front of the radiator. My 3 oil coolers mount to the stone shield in between the rails so they don't add very much heat to the radiator. The front bumper got modified at the license hole. Cut it, widened it out, as the coolers are right there, to give them airflow.

 

[Paul_G]

I am thinking of having my trans and engine oil coolers mounted horizontally under the car somewhere with electric fans on them. I want this car to work in the Arizona summer 110° heat and AC on. We sometimes go to weekend car shows at higher elevation in the summer. It would be nice to drive this car the whole way rather then trailering it out of the sweltering valley.

 

[ckessel]

I initially was thinking about cutting ducts into the fender just behind the headlights and mounting the coolers in the area between the fender and tire. Was contemplating similar ducts using the headlamp buckets, modified along with the HL bezels, to give me cooler outside air for the engine. Did NASCAR style cowl induction instead. Cut into the firewall, made a duct for that and made up an aluminum filter unit for the TB to meet up with the rear duct.

 

[sdconcepts]

nice work. its great starting with a clean body

 

[ckessel]

Hi Jerry. Glad to see you pop up.

 

[Paul_G]

Torque boxes, subframe connectors, and right fender brace are done.

 

[Paul_G]

The Fender braces are a jigsaw puzzle with no picture to follow. There are three small peices that get welded in to the shock tower and tie in with the fneder brace. I think this is how they go. My best guess is to fit the big brace first, clamp it in place, then fit and weld in the shock tower peices, then burn it all in.