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383 w/ Edelbrock h/c/I package

Scrawny Pete

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Anyone running the Edelbrock top end kit on a 383? I'm curious as to what horsepower and torque numbers you got? My father in law had his car on the dyno last weekend and only netted 300hp at the wheels. I'm pretty sure he has the wrong converter for his build but still curious as to what power range this set up is making?
 
I'd be curious too. Although, I remember sometime back, Mopar Muscle did an article where they took a fresh 71 383 RR and did a full top-end change out and a new full exhaust system from TTI with header... at the mopar nats.... Kind of a raffle deal. Did the change over at the show and while tear down they found the 383 had new, but low compression (.080 in the hole) pistons. So compression was anemic at around 7.8-8.0 to start with.
 
Yeah I'd like to hear closer to 10-10.5c/r. That's what he's claiming it is. What is the stock compression for the 383 B long block? Honestly, his short block is a little questionable. He claims forged internals. The guy that originally built the car claims the short block was a stock rering before he got it but he put a D-1 Procharger on it. Doesn't make any sense.
 
Real CR is MATH, not what ratings are. Too many variables, compression distance, chamber volume, piston dome/dish including valve reliefs and head gasket thickness. All part of "blueprinting".
 
The magazine article mentioned gained, I think, around 100 horse. It was mid-200's at the wheels before the top end change over.

On a 383 compression. Yea, what 66Sat. said, but having 4 383's in my stash, that I picked up over the years, I can tell you, nearly all 'generic' rebuilds, new pistons or stock rering jobs, ...they were low compression motors. 7.5 to 8.5 using production gaskets, heads, etc.

Currently, I have a #'s 383 HP for a 69 charger and it has its original positive deck (.005) pistons. As 68/69 383's had taller pistons. The rest were way below deck. The #'s 71 383 HP has a below deck piston. Apx. .070. Reason from going from 335hp to 300hp on a factory rating.
 
Yeah definitely that equation is the best bet if you have all the info on the engine. As of right now, my best guess is it's a Edelbrock top end kit on a stock short block.
 
The magazine article mentioned gained, I think, around 100 horse. It was mid-200's at the wheels before the top end change over.

On a 383 compression. Yea, what 66Sat. said, but having 4 383's in my stash, that I picked up over the years, I can tell you, nearly all 'generic' rebuilds, new pistons or stock rering jobs, ...they were low compression motors. 7.5 to 8.5 using production gaskets, heads, etc.

Currently, I have a #'s 383 HP for a 69 charger and it has its original positive deck (.005) pistons. As 68/69 383's had taller pistons. The rest were way below deck. The #'s 71 383 HP has a below deck piston. Apx. .070. Reason from going from 335hp to 300hp on a factory rating.

Cool! Thank you! That helps out a lot!
 
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-0112-rebuilt-resto-stock-383/


What's the Edelbrock top end kit consist of ?

My 383 was rebuilt about 25 years ago - I knew it was.030 over , I knew I was running Speed Pro Forged Flat Top Pistons per the paperwork

What I didn't realize was , what my compression ratio was

All the research I read on poor 383 piston selection was that my pistons where probably on average .060 to .080 in the hole running low compression

I was pleasantly surprised when I pulled the heads this spring and found those Speed Pros L2315 only about .015 in the hole with no deck resurfacing on the block per the factory head alignment pins

I figured around 9-1 compression running Fel Pro .039 head gaskets and factory heads

So I upped the compression with the Edelbrock E Street 5090 75cc heads

Problem was running those flat top pistons with no valve reliefs

That's another story

Bottom line like mentioned , if you want exact numbers , you will have to pull the heads , and start measuring
 
300hp at the rear wheels with a 383 is far from terrible. a lot of variables go into rear wheel horsepower but it will take about 90hp to drive an automatic trans/drive shaft/ rear axle-wheels. a good tune up is a plus.

those 2315 speed-pro pistons may make a nice close chamber alum head street piston, but piston to valve clearance is an issue as mentioned.
 
300hp at the rear wheels with a 383 is far from terrible. a lot of variables go into rear wheel horsepower but it will take about 90hp to drive an automatic trans/drive shaft/ rear axle-wheels. a good tune up is a plus.

those 2315 speed-pro pistons may make a nice close chamber alum head street piston, but piston to valve clearance is an issue as mentioned.

Thanks to everyone!

From what I've been reading, you're right. 300hp to the wheels didn't seem bad. Plus he has gear vendors for his over drive.

I just got off the phone with him and told him his car is up to parr with what it has done to it. He got pissed and is claiming it should have 500hp to the wheels and should be able to "scratch" the tires in 3rd gear.... and because of the msd ignition and retro fit efi system it should be running and doing that. So I just need to turn the timing up.

I argued for a minute then was like fine. If you think you can get magical hp numbers with just fuel and timing, you seriously need to learn the engine basics. The 383 B guys that are pushing those numbers n/a are bored, stroked and running dome pistons with gutted heads.

So I'm pretty much washing my hands of it at this point. The last three times he's had issues with the car. He's asked me what I thought then went against me. To have an over priced shop tell him the exact same thing but because it was a shop he listened. So yeah I'm done trying.

But I do appreciate everyone's patience and help on this website. It's definitely one of the best forums I've been a member of over the past twenty years. I wish everyone the best of luck on their projects. Take care, Pete
 
To ScrawnyPete, Well, 500 HP at the flywheel is a pretty bad *** 383 with high compression (although the Pro Charger probably makes up for that), really neat heads, an ideal camshaft and a really nice working intake setup. Just say'in.
 
your friend may be diseased by all the magazine/internet dyno garbage. some people think engine dyno and chassis dyno numbers should be close; which ain't gonna happen. don't argue with ignorance.
 
From the 2009 catolog, no (Edelbrock) aftermarket cylinder head in use.

image.jpg
 
The differences are, heads AND a switch from a 1407 carb to a 1412 carb.

(1407) A Performer 750 manual choke to a
(1412) Performer EPS 800 manual choke.
 
It comes out to about 360hp at the crank. A base rebuilt 383 (not running custom pistons and not blueprinted) would have been anywhere depending on the parts used, the machining done, and the quality of the tuning. The RPM heads could have issues if they were never gone trough before installation. So it could be realistic. So could a stingy dyno, bad convertor, etc... Take it to a track, get it weighed, and get some runs in on it. Than do the math. Then you KNOW.
 
The differences are, heads AND a switch from a 1407 carb to a 1412 carb.

(1407) A Performer 750 manual choke to a
(1412) Performer EPS 800 manual choke.
Carb - Switching to the 1412

That alone should BEE worth 500 HP LOL

1407/1411 - P.O.S. Junk Carbs
 
zero deck, closed chamber ported head, 557 or your flavor, 4500 stall and 4.56 will wake a 383 up to the tune of 11.45 @115 in 3100 A body we've done it with multiple combos over the past 35 years. It was our daily driver in the early 80's
 
If his car has a d1 procharger on it like you mentioned in the first post, and it has edelbrock heads on it, then yes he has every right to be extremely pissed off if it's only making 300hp to the wheels. My heads/cam/intake blower 302 made 606 at the wheels.
 
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