413 build for my 64 Polara Convertible

[dieseldazzle]

You are doing a great job. There is so much information out there nowadays that almost anyone can assemble an engine. Only time you'll stumble is when and if you run into an issue like not being able to get a clearance in spec and what to do about it.

But the best advice I can lend after assembling over 100 engines in my own garage, is to get a feel for the motor when you spin it over by hand. As you load each cylinder spin it over. You'll catch almost anything by feeling for it.

You should never have to "force" anything when assembling and engine.

 

[Glenwood]

This may be the slowest engine build ever! lol I like to take my time and measure stuff carefully as I can along the way.

I set up my dial bore indicator zero'd it out to 3". I had to use my caliper as my mic is 4-5" and too big to use for the journals.

Each main bore was equal at 0.0560 (3"-0.0560=2.9440")

 

[Glenwood]

The bearing thickness measured 0.1000" each and the crank main journals measured 2.7400" each as best as I could measure with a caliper.
clearance should be 2.9440-(2.7400+0.1+0.1)=0.004"

I realize this is close but not 'machinist precision' without a smaller micrometer so I checked with plastigage.

I cleaned the block main bores and put a light film of assembly lube to insert the bearings.

A small strip of green plastigage.

Looks like it measures out to 0.003". I hope I did that right!

 

[dieseldazzle]

When I first started getting familiar with my mics I would always triple check with plastigauge and if something was way off I'd reassess

 

[SublimeSixpack]

I like this kind of thread. Thanks for sharing!

 

[miller]

Looks like it measures out to 0.003".

I understand .003 is probably 'in limits'...okay. I'll toss in, that it's a crap shoot, getting bearings these days. Seems the norm is they want you to carve off .010, every chance you get. Sorry, kinda get peeved about some of this.
Ideal (to me) is between .002-.0025, both rods and mains. The .003 is slightly loose, but, sure it will go. (More room for oil, right?) Nothing to worry about, as long as your measuring accurate as possible. Pretty critical on those things.
Clean, and measured, is the name of the game. You should be able to rotate the crank real easy, once the mains are torqued.
btw...don't forget to put in all the block plugs!!!
Soapbox just broke.

 

[miller]

Uh, old school stuff...since this is your first build. Parts in hand, at least if needed, you can ask.
Hope you cleaned the oil ports in the crank. Would rather see the journals wiped clean, dust, and such.

I don't know anything about your rods, so...do they have a cut notch, at one of the mating surfaces? And, the rod inserts (bearings to most), most likely do NOT have the vee notch on one half. Just food for thought, okay?
If you have a service manual, you can look this stuff up. You were asking about the right way the pistons, and rods get mounted. Yes. From one bank, to the other, pistons are mounted a correct direction, to the rod number...which hole it's going into. Rod number is normally stamped on the same side, both pieces, and installed the number should face towards the outside of the block. The mentioned vee notch will face the inside of the block.
I was real irritated about my 'new and improved' bearings. Was told the notch in the bearing half was not needed! Really??? I cut the vee notch in my bearings, by hand.
The notch, in both the rod, and bearing half, are for an oil spray into that cylinder. That is the only way the cylinder wall gets oil! Oil is all under the piston, and rings.
Just something to think about...

 

[Glenwood]

So I'm inserting the rear seal into the block which goes in easy. Is it supposed to be tough to push it into place? The felpro kit supplies parts to "shoe horn it in".
Seems too easy or am I missing something?

 

[miller]

New one on me. What type of seals for the sides of the seal cap? I guess the old type are harder to find, don't remember what the material was called. Kind of a fiber? You soaked them in kerosene for a minute, before putting 'em in, and they would swell up, making the side seal.
On the crank sealing surface itself, a light wipe of grease, where it contacts the crank...helps it to seat. And a light coat of some kind of seal, at the two ends of the seal, to close that.
Most times, if the side seals are any good, hold them in place, partly 'down', when you start the cap. That helps to force the side seals in place, when the cap seats. You want the ends of the side seals all the way down. Only then, if any is above the pan gasket surface, you trim that off.

 

[Glenwood]

So I'm looking at these Fel Pro pieces and no idea what the tubes and two odd shaped black rubber pieces are for since they aren't mentioned in the very vague instructions. I read a note from a customer to Fel Pro asking the same thing and they replied that they didn't know either so ignore them! What fun.

I took a wet stone that I use to debur my skates to debur the edge or the block and retainer.

 

[Glenwood]

Used some wire loom on the studs to protect the crank. The crankshaft is heavier than it looks.

Clean up the crank and more assembly lube on the journals and bearings. Torqued it down except #3.

A few light taps on each end to align the thrust bearing and torqued it down while prying the crank forward...kind of awkward.


Checking endplay. Looks to be close to 0.007".

 

[Glenwood]

So now the main seal...
A good thorough cleaning of the surfaces to make sure there is no oil residue.
RTV in the retainer grooves and I inserted the side seal, hanging them a bit low.
A light coating of RTV on the block where the side seals mate to and a thin coat on the bottom of the retainer.
RTV on the retainer bolt threads and shoulder.
I offset the main seal halfs about an 1/8" and added a bit of loctite 518 on the ends of the seal.
a bit of lube on the seal and bolted it up.

Looks good, but then I noticed a small problem...the #5 cap nuts are touching the retainer. In fact, they are likely causing the retainer to not seat flat on the block so yep, I had to pull it off and do it over! I didn't notice how tight it was when I dry fit it unfortunately. PITA.

A little grinding got them clear. Lots of cleaning and scraping to do it over.

 

[Glenwood]

Put in the freeze plugs with some ultra gray and I'm ready to start fitting the rings.

 

[threewood]

I love the ultra grey!! Looks great, keep it up. I am kind of glad I had the shop assemble mine. I am about burned out on my heads, I'll have those dang things off and on so many times it may need a rebuild before tbere is even a mile on them lol.

 

[miller]

Yup, looks good! Those rear seals look like the same one's I used...new and improved. Only thing I added on mine, was a wipe of black sealer, inside edges of the cap.

 

[Glenwood]

Time to file the rings...

Carrillo's sheet says the top ring is to be .0045 x bore (4.25"), which should be .019 to .020". I thought I should double check the bore size.

Set the micrometer to 4.25 and zero'd out the dial bore gauge.

All the bores check out to be .0005-.001 and are within the .002 tolerance I believe.

 

[Glenwood]

Filing is such fun. I was terrified at filling too much too quickly. It takes much more effort than I imagined. Lots of file and check and file and check. Keeping the cut straight takes some care. I checked it by squeezing the ends together over a white background. I used a wet stone to debur the ring edges.

squaring up the ring before checking.

All 8 done! took a while but it got easier when I got a feel for it.

Now to figure out how these spiral locks go in.

 

[miller]

Start one end, and 'wrap 'em' into place.

Yeah, rings are a treat. That's how it's done!

 

[Glenwood]

Yeah the rings were fun. I had to draw arrows on the filer to remind me which way to turn the handle. My brain wants to turn it clockwise for some reason.

I managed to install a couple of spiralox last night. I didn't realize you have to stretch them out a bit to insert and walk them into the groove. Actually not too difficult at all.
I have to keep looking at the crank and block to make sure the rods are facing the right way!

 

[Glenwood]

spirolox in and 8 slugs ready to go!