413 build for my 64 Polara Convertible

[Glenwood]

installed #1 to check rod bearing clearance (about .0015-.002) and the piston height to deck. (.019-.020)

Now If I can settle on the correct way to apply oil to the piston/rings for installation, I can get these installed! I have to speak to the machinist tomorrow to get his recommendation.

 

[khryslerkid]

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/install-pistons-rings.123450/#post-910579425

 

[miller]

Yeah, the machinist can probably tell you what to use, to best get the rings seated in. How much clearance did you get, from piston skirt to cylinder wall?

 

[Glenwood]

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/install-pistons-rings.123450/#post-910579425

Thanks Kid, I've been following many of engdoug's threads as his questions are similar to mine...just ahead of me, so the input there has been helpful.

 

[Glenwood]

Yeah, the machinist can probably tell you what to use, to best get the rings seated in. How much clearance did you get, from piston skirt to cylinder wall?

Tim (forhemisonly)got back to me this morning, he's been been great for responding to my questions. He is still old school with standard oil.
I did not check skirt clearance; hadn't occurred to me. Carrillo's sheet says the clearance of piston to cylinder is supposed to be .005. Not sure if that changes with the skirt. What is the tolerance in this area?

 

[miller]

He is still old school with standard oil.

Yeah, me too! For what it's worth, besides the piston skirts/cylinder walls needing lube, especially when it's first fired off, those rings need it, too. Including ring to piston grooves. A good oil cannot be beat. And, for these old engines, prefer a straight weight oil.

I did not check skirt clearance; hadn't occurred to me.

You mentioned forged pistons, so yeah, .005 sounds right. Your machinist (again), should be able to tell you, since he cut the holes. Did he have those pistons in hand, when he worked it?
Forged pistons need the extra clearance, since they 'grow' when they warm up. Normal clearance is closer to .0015-.002.

 

[Glenwood]

Well I pulled the crank back out, cleaned the bearings and journals, mic'd the crank main and rod journals, then checked the clearances again... .003" for each main journal and .002" for each rod.
Something else that I've been concerned about, is the valve to cylinder clearance. Many (or all) of the after market heads have larger valves and I wanted to know if my 4.25 bores are too tight for 2.14 intakes and 1.81 exhaust valves, so I placed the stock iron head with 2.08/1.74 valves and measured the gap. Too tight for the larger valves, which I think the block would need further machining or notching for the larger valves. So I'll stick with the irons on this motor.

Installed the crank and rods. Torqued mains to 100# but left the rods finger tight for the stretch gauge.

Bought the stretch gauge from summit. It was tricky to use and the spring in it is too weak to leave on the rod bolt while tightening. I ended up torquing each to 75# and checking the stretch of each arp2000 bolt. They came out to approx .0065.

 

[Glenwood]

Got the new lunati cam! Started to clean it up and found an issue. Look at the rust pitting on a brand new cam. Just terrible....

Rather than go through the hassle of sending it back and waiting another few weeks, I polised it with some 1000 grit which cleaned it up. Hopefully it'll be okay.

Also got a new HV oil pump from summit, and the bloody oring is split! I haven't even opened the package yet. Where's the QA controls?

 

[Glenwood]

I bought a Lunati timing chain set for the 3-bolt cam and they don't supply the bolts! Luckily, the original cam was a three bolt.
The crank gear slips on easily and did not need tapping. I hope that won't be a problem once the balancer is installed.

The summit degree wheel is a bit of a pain to work with. To loosen the wheel to correct it, tends to jar the crank backwards and throws it all off and forces you to start again. I got it eventually.

Finding a spot for the magnetic base and getting the angle right for the indicator was a treat.

Took a while to get the hang of it, but the intake open was bang on at 7*.

Installed the stock oil pick up which was stiff to install. I used thread locker on it to seal it, which helped keep the threads from binding as I tightened with a pipe wrench. Now I can start installing the cover & pan and get some paint on it!

 

[miller]

Sounds like your having a time, with the ordered parts. But, the build is looking good!

 

[miller]

Crank clearances will be fine.
Be sure to oil up the timing chain, if you haven't already, before you put the cover on. I always soak mine in oil first. If the deflection (slack) on the chain is small, it's okay. Should be, but you never know, without checking it.
Bottom of the pick-up tube should be 1/4", or about that, from the inside bottom of the pan. Did you get all your block plugs in??
Be selective on your head gaskets, considering the bore size. Not sure if 426 head gaskets are available, since that's what size you need. Don't want any over hang, covering the bores. Any idea what CR your going to get?

 

[Glenwood]

Crank clearances will be fine.
Be sure to oil up the timing chain, if you haven't already, before you put the cover on. I always soak mine in oil first. If the deflection (slack) on the chain is small, it's okay. Should be, but you never know, without checking it.
Bottom of the pick-up tube should be 1/4", or about that, from the inside bottom of the pan. Did you get all your block plugs in??
Be selective on your head gaskets, considering the bore size. Not sure if 426 head gaskets are available, since that's what size you need. Don't want any over hang, covering the bores. Any idea what CR your going to get?

I was planning to use assembly lube on the timing set. The chain has been pre-stretched and has little deflection.
The pick up to pan clearance is roughly 1/4". I had to turn it a few more turns to get it there though. My 699 pan has a baffle but I'm thinking that a windage tray might be a good idea.
All the freeze plugs and oil gallery plugs are in. I have to find the water plugs for the side of the block though, as I think the old ones were rusted draincocks and have to be replaced.
I chose steel shim gaskets at .020" compressed. Most head gaskets I see are 4.4" bore, but these are a little less at 4.38". This should keep the compression around 9.4 or so.