6 pac

[bearman]

Want to do a 6pac set up on my 440. But Don't want to be working on them all the time. Have been looking at the fitech ones but really wanted to give it the classic look. Is vacum a big problem should i look at mechanical ones or just shoot for fitech.

 

[davek]

street driving go with vac,drag mechanical but everyone is different. Every carb needs loving but I was happy with my vac setup.Im no pro on carbs if that helps.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Wow, that's a big question since fitech is fuel injection, so regardless of what they say, it's not really a "bolt on" system.
1. six pack carburetors run just fine & require very little maintenance (if any) once you get them set up. In my many years running six packs, the only real issues I've had is when I started modifying them for racing & got them so out of whack they didn't run right.
2. vacuum only matters if you have a street-driven car and power brakes.
3. mechanical six pack carbs are race-only in my opinion.

If you drive the car (more than at the drag strip), I recommend a factory setup, not modified at all, except maybe some yellow springs in the front/back vacuum diaphragms.

 

[bearman]

Just looking for best results. More street driving not racing. Just got to have that 6 pac if you know what i am saying

 

[lewtot184]

the first major problem with a 6pak is the lean idle and main metering of the center carb. the center carb is so bad that folks generally by pass it and work on the end carbs to alleviate the problem. second problem is the intake manifolds. edelbrocks been making them since '69 and still hasn't figured out how to machine them properly. I've had several sets of them and started playing with them in 1970. they do make power, but you really need to understand carburation to have a nice set. I've found the ch28 dual quad much easier to work with, gives up little in power and very reliable. basically all my 6pak stuff is stuffed in a box and put up in the attic; probably never to be used again. don't care much for single 4bbl stuff.

 

[bearman]

Thanks for the input. Machine shop going to machine and port match to heads.

 

[bearman]

Purple beeper did you have to do anything to carbs when you set it up. 440 has sleath heads 284 grind purple cam compression is in the mid low low 10 not stroked. Just streeter.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Purple beeper did you have to do anything to carbs when you set it up. 440 has sleath heads 284 grind purple cam compression is in the mid low low 10 not stroked. Just streeter.

I set it up with a lot of help from lewtot & others here and on moparts. I had done a bunch of "racing stuff" to my setup which made it run terribly. The answer for me was putting it all back to factory-stock settings, putting in yellow outboard carb springs (only modification) and now it runs great, idles smooth, burns rubber in the first 3 gears and gets better mileage vs. the 750 Holley vacuum secondary I was running.

 

[66Satellite47]

The six pac was very poorly understood in the early '70's. Which was why I could buy them at a low cost. My best carbs were a set of 70's on the stock '69 manifold. Nearly stock jetting, but open up the end carb idle screws a bit (under the carb). Played with the different springs. Try to see what works best for you. A nearly stock six pack is hard to beat.

 

[Bill Monk]

You WILL need to adjust the outboard carb bleed screws and likely experiment with the springs. When they are dialed in, I like them but there is no arguing that it takes patience to get them tuned. I recommend getting a throttle base from Promax so you can adjust the rear carb without taking it off the car. If you have never messed with those fuel lines on a six pack, you're in for a real treat. Once is enough! If you don't want to go the promax route then do yourself a favor and use some rubber fuel line until you get them tuned and then put the metal on there

 

[bearman]

Ok sounds good was going to build my own. But get idea from promax. Ok now for fuel supply i know it will be at the back up by the tank. On regular 6 pacs what size is the supply line from tank to pump.

 

[bearman]

Should fuel line be insulation from firewall to pump so it doesn't heat up from the headers or not to worry about it. I could put a fuel cooler on the return line to tank. Next what a good fuel pressure to run for carbs.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

Let’s make it really simple, if someone has trouble tuning a single carburetor than three of them is not going to make it any easier. If you have $3,000 to spare it’s a great setup, for max power and simplicity, a single carburetor is still very difficult to beat. If you’re doing it from scratch I’m sure there is some great advice to be found in the older Mopar engine manuals.

 

[bearman]

I believe that i can do it. Yep lots of money but i have ran single, duals and just got to do the 6 pac. If all fails i will switch back to a big single and call it good.

 

[66Satellite47]

A single 4 is easier, a stock style 6 pak still works good. Just a little tinkering.

 

[Bill Monk]

Ok sounds good was going to build my own. But get idea from promax. Ok now for fuel supply i know it will be at the back up by the tank. On regular 6 pacs what size is the supply line from tank to pump.

3/8 line. If you are running an electric pump, you should have a return line as well so you will need a new sending unit with a return line. I have a new one if you need it. Pressure will need to be regulated to 6-7 psi, As far as the insulation or a cooler goes, you shouldn't need it if you have return line

 

[bearman]

3/8 line. If you are running an electric pump, you should have a return line as well so you will need a new sending unit with a return line. I have a new one if you need it. Pressure will need to be regulated to 6-7 psi, As far as the insulation or a cooler goes, you shouldn't need it if you have return line

Bill thanks for the input right now collecting info on how to do it. Damn near have my first notebook full of notes,what parts etc. I won't be fuel stage for awhile going to get going on the engine bay get it ready should have engine back by end of may. I have alot to do up front to get it ready. Thank you for the offer if you still have it in a couple of months i just might hit you up on the sending unit.