68 Charger - How to remove panels

[The Rebel]

Hey guys. Whats the best way to safely remove the panels so I can lube my front & rear window gears.

Thanks in advance,
Roger

 

[PurpleBeeper]

At most auto part stores you can buy a set of "trim removal tools". They are normally made of plastic (won't scratch paint). The one I use has an end that is "split" and looks like the back end of a regular old "carpenter's hammer".... the main one most people think of when you say "hammer" and I'm talking about the back half that you use to remove nails. Anyway, work that piece in between the door & interior and put that "spit" around one of the "interior rivets" and pry it out gently & slowly. Then move around to the next "rivet" and repeat. The "rivets" are sort of "spring loaded" into holes in the door & will pop out. They're located about every 3"-4" apart from each other. GO SLOW & GENTLE because the interior backing is just thick cardboard & the rivets can pull out of that backing. If you screw one up, you can glue it back into place. The rivets should come out attached to the interior panels.

Oh yeah, IF there is a metal strip on top of the interior panel (not sure on your car) it has a "slot" in it that holds the trim along the top side. After the rivets are out, slide panel down about 1/4" and it will slip out.

 

[The Rebel]

Thanks! This one right? I'd cover the metal with duct tape to avoid scratching.

 

[moparnation74]

Harbor freight has a plastic set.

I try to find the clip and wedge the plastic end of the prybar in the clips slot. Doing so ensure you will not rip the clip out of the cardboard panel...

 

[The Rebel]

Thanks Justin. Good $ for these, saves me about $10 vs AutoZone/Pep Boys

Harbor freight has a plastic set.

I try to find the clip and wedge the plastic end of the prybar in the clips slot. Doing so ensure you will not rip the clip out of the cardboard panel...

 

[moparnation74]

Thanks Justin. Good $ for these, saves me about $10 vs AutoZone/Pep Boys
View attachment 500978

The first three you will use a lot of....and keeps the paint free from scratches...

 

[Billccm]

rip the clip out of the cardboard panel...

I've found that either someone before me, or just over time these clips come off no matter how careful you are. PLIOBOND is a great contact cement for glueing these back in place and even making any repairs to the fiberboard, etc.

I found the Lisle trim tool kit to be much better than the Harbor Freight. The plastic is more rigid and sturdy for prying. Don't remember the cost, but it was very reasonable on eBay to purchase.

Another tip, FBBO member Jim Kueneman came up with a neat (and low cost) method to replace the watershields. You can search his thread here on what he purchased in thickness of plastic sheeting.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/1968-coronet-500-project.114333/

 

[Billccm]

This is the best, longest lasting lube for your window regulators (and caliper slides, and spark plug boots, and so on).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-8946-Sil...041006&hash=item1e8af7a979:g:0BEAAOxyBotTYq0w

 

[Billccm]

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Thanks Justin. Good $ for these, saves me about $10 vs AutoZone/Pep Boys
View attachment 500978

Yep, those are the ones I was thinking of. You "could" use the metal one, but these plastic ones seem much less likely to scratch your paint + they're more than strong enough to pry those little clips/"rivets" out. And, as Moparnation74 mentioned, it's best to get that "split" around each clip/"rivet" if at all possible....less chance of pulling one out of the door panel.

 

[The Rebel]

Yesterday went up to HF in a monsoon downpour to buy these and they were on sale for $5! Awesome deal. Worked on both front door panels today. Will tackle the back later next week. The drivers side inside door panel still had the orig part # on it but looks like someone undercoated the passengers side.

Also wonder what the "X" means. One panel also had someone's initials on it.

 

[The Rebel]

More

 

[Billccm]

Those look like factory inspection marks.

 

[moparnation74]

Looks like your driver door got a factory replacement door skin at some point in its life. That is why it does not have the factory undercoat as your passenger door and there is a 2859079 PN...I doubt there is a dip line on that panel...Pretty cool...

https://picclick.ca/68-69-70-Dodge-Charger-Left-Front-Drivers-182575653535.html

The mark, as in the "X" are competition marks.....I have seen more doors w/o marks versus doors with them....

 

[The Rebel]

Thanks as usual for the education Justin! Competition marks?

The mark, as in the "X" are competition marks.....I have seen more doors w/o marks versus doors with them....

 

[moparnation74]

Thanks as usual for the education Justin! Competition marks?

lol...dang auto correct... completion marks, lol

 

[The Rebel]

Well today was only slightly cooler but there was a nice breeze blowing so I decided to take on the back windows. Looks like the factory plastic seal was still in place on both sides. I cut around it as best as possible so I could reuse it and sealed it up with duct tape until I decide to redo both sides at a later date.

 

[The Rebel]

One thing I noticed was that the arm rest plastic was in great shape on the bottoms so decided to switch the right & left sides as well as the front doors.