73 Satellite Sebring

[Rustydustydoc]

I posted my car in the welcome wagons page, as it has sit since 2007 in a field. I was having issues with no spark. I purchased a new distributor since the wires where chewed off the original, and still didn't get spark right away. Eventually kept messing with it, cranking it over and over, messing with wires and it got spark and fired up.

I have replaced the distributor, wires, and ballast resistor. Today I was letting it idle to flush the motor out (this thing is horribly filthy internally) and it died randomly. Crank crank crank and nothing, no spark again. I've messed with it and at times it wants to fire randomly. This is not a fuel issue, it has plenty of fuel. I noticed one time I messed with ignition control module and it fired off and then nothing again.

Has any one had this issue before? Can anyone give me tips or point me in the right direction? I think next i'm going to replace the ignition control module and go from there.

 

[Rustydustydoc]

Replace the distributor pickup coil. Since the distributor will be out you can clean it.

I put a whole new distributor in just curious why would I replace the pick up coil?

 

[Bb70charger500]

Ballast resister is more then likely broken on the back side cheap part to replace if you unbolt it and flip it over you can tell really quickly.
My 64 300 was running great then quit started testing ... During test I must of bumped the resister and it fired .
It ran all the way home then quit again when I hit driveway

 

[Rustydustydoc]

Ballast resister is more then likely broken on the back side cheap part to replace if you unbolt it and flip it over you can tell really quickly.
My 64 300 was running great then quit started testing ... During test I must of bumped the resister and it fired .
It ran all the way home then quit again when I hit driveway

Its good and brand new, I just put it on yesterday and the old one wasn't broke either and didn't fix the issue. Im going to try and ignition coil, if that doesn't work then ill try a new ICM I guess.

 

[Bb70charger500]

Well cool will work then over heat /not work
I usually just replace all that stuff cheaper then a tow truck in my opinion!

 

[T2R9]

Check that your ignition module is mounted tightly and has a good ground. No ground is no spark. Also check/clean the bulkhead connections.

 

[barbee6043]

My first thing is to pull the gas tank and pickup and clean/replace. Sitting that long do a complete tune with new parts. Pull the carb, clean and kit.

 

[RussT Plymouths]

Agree with T2R9, " No ground, No Spark". Also how old is the ECU? 5 pin or 4 pin? I have found cold solder joints twice on the boards inside the units where the big pins solder. Once on an OEM unit and once in an aftermarket unit. Very intermittent connection, can work great for three months then fail.

 

[Rustydustydoc]

The tank and lines were all empty, I put gas and some cleaner additive before I tried hooking it all up. Fuel filter is surprisingly clean. Previous owner rigged a 4 barrel on with the stock 2 barrel intake. I put a holley 4 barrel and new gaskets on temporarily to get it running. I order the stock carter 2 barrel to put it back on. The ECU is a 5 pin, I removed, cleaned the firewall and ECU its self and re mounted with new bolts because it was a little loose.

 

[RussT Plymouths]

Look at these three sites/threads, good information and good diagrams. Understand other things connect to the 12v wire that feeds power to the ECU, and failure of them could effect the voltage, (Alternator is one). You could have an intermittent disconnect in the wiring harness or an intermittent short to ground ( I think you said you had to repair some chewed up wiring). Do a little more troubleshooting before spending more money.

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/questions-on-voltage-to-the-coil.111181/

http://www.fourforty.com/techstuff/ignition.html

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/ignition-ecu-box-test.424107/

 

[Rustydustydoc]

Look at these three sites/threads, good information and good diagrams. Understand other things connect to the 12v wire that feeds power to the ECU, and failure of them could effect the voltage, (Alternator is one). You could have an intermittent disconnect in the wiring harness or an intermittent short to ground ( I think you said you had to repair some chewed up wiring). Do a little more troubleshooting before spending more money.

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/questions-on-voltage-to-the-coil.111181/

http://www.fourforty.com/techstuff/ignition.html

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/ignition-ecu-box-test.424107/

Thank you, ill be looking more into that tomorrow

 

[Rustydustydoc]

Update, it was the ignition control module. I ordered the 5 pin, installed and it fired instantly. once I get the new carb I can properly tune this thing and soon enough have it back on the road. Thank you all for the help.

 

[YY1]

Keep a spare in the trunk.

 

[RussT Plymouths]

Keep a spare in the trunk.

Fully agree, been carrying a spare ECU for over 20 years.

Great you've got it running.

 

[Rustydustydoc]

Can someone post a pic of their throttle mechanism? Previous owner had mine un bolted and un hooked, trying to see how it all hooks up with the passing gear attachment. I cant seem to find a pic anywhere. Any thing will help but if you have a 318 with the 2 barrel that'd be great to

 

[YY1]

@Rustydustydoc

Just a note since you are new to Mopars-

Do NOT drive the car with the kickdown disconnected.

You will burn out the 2-3 shift mechanism.

 

[Rustydustydoc]

@Rustydustydoc

Just a note since you are new to Mopars-

Do NOT drive the car with the kickdown disconnected.

You will burn out the 2-3 shift mechanism.

Thank you, I watched a video explaining all that and the throttle mechanism so I got a good idea of what to expect now. I'm looking forward to getting my new carb and hooking it all up and going for a cruise.

 

[Rustydustydoc]

Starting to really hate this car. Went to go start it today and no fire again. A couple times when I stopped cranking it wanted to fire off again, but then nothing again. I'm stumped. I guess I will wait til the weekend and load it up and take it to a buddy's house and try and trace out the problem, im not real good with electrical.

 

[YY1]

That sure sounds ballast resistor-y

You can jump it from top to bottom to test.

Or jump straight from battery to coil- just remember you have to pull that wire to shut it off.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Bypass the ballast feeding the coil straight from batt with a jumper wire on damaged ballast stage won't start the engine because the ECU won't be feeded either. Would need to feed both sides of ballast instead.