Another Line Loc / Roll Control Thread

[Runner 68]

Glad to see the discussion is continuing. Thanks guys. Fresh pics below.
1. No concern about a stock look on this car. The distribution block does offer the option of fitting the stock bent lines, cleaner look, plus I just paid $70 for a new one.
2. Late model MC for sure. Baer Remaster.
3. Access not an issue at this point.
4. I like the idea that the brake light "may" come on for the reasons stated by Mopar2u above. Saves me potentially wiring in the kit supplied indicator light.
5. RemCharger, the rep at Holley/Hurst posed the same question about loss of pressure through the shuttle valve. Won't it reset after the burn out though?

Option 1 mounting location before the DB. Cleaner, easier but is it safe?

Option 2, after the DB, follows Hurst's instructions but will it get cooked by the header?

I don't like the idea of a second splitter as suggested by Hurst's instructions below.
Another thought if I go with option 2 providing the header won't cook it, since the solenoid has three output ports can't I just use the solenoid as the splitter back to the fronts despite what the instructions show with the T-Fitting?

 

[gkent]

loss of pressure through shuttle valve movement.

You're kidding, right ?!?!? First of all that valve movement is minimal - probably like 1/8". Second, it only occurs when the line loc is engaged and all it does is light the "brake" lamp. Third, the rear brake lines are all still full - just not under pressure. Fourth, even if there were a SLIGHT loss of pressure, its only momentary until the line loc is released and the pressure equalizes. And lastly, I and tens of thousands of other guys have installed line locs this way since they hit the market - some time back in the 60's at least. Add the fact that no race sanctioning body mandates any particular method of installation.

 

[gkent]

Here are some photos of other guy's installs ...

 

[RemCharger]

You're kidding, right ?!?!? First of all that valve movement is minimal - probably like 1/8". Second, it only occurs when the line loc is engaged and all it does is light the "brake" lamp. Third, the rear brake lines are all still full - just not under pressure. Fourth, even if there were a SLIGHT loss of pressure, its only momentary until the line loc is released and the pressure equalizes. And lastly, I and tens of thousands of other guys have installed line locs this way since they hit the market - some time back in the 60's at least. Add the fact that no race sanctioning body mandates any particular method of installation.

What I said is true, you're just saying to what degree does it matter. To each their own-thats fine.

And your last statement I can only assume means you are talking about the DB location solely.
There certainly are rules on lineloc installation.

 

[71Beeper]

I installed mine on the other side of the proportioning valve.
you can see the bottom of it in this pic.
I used the mounting stud that comes thru the inner fender from the valve on one side of the line-loc.

Here it is from the front drivers side wheel well.

 

[Runner 68]

I installed mine on the other side of the proportioning valve.
you can see the bottom of it in this pic.
I used the mounting stud that comes thru the inner fender from the valve on one side of the line-loc.
View attachment 1382831
Here it is from the front drivers side wheel well.
View attachment 1382832

Thanks. Good idea. It looks like the 71 is configured a little differently allowing that.

 

[bm02tj]

This is also a safety item

If the pressure difference continues, the piston will move far enough to completely stop fluid flow to the side with the lower pressure. At this point, the piston will not return to center until the valve is disassembled and reset.

this is same for Mopar

Classic Chevy, Chevrolet, GMC, Ford technical articles

Do it right as in after the block as per instructions

 

[RemCharger]

I installed mine on the other side of the proportioning valve.
you can see the bottom of it in this pic.
I used the mounting stud that comes thru the inner fender from the valve on one side of the line-loc.
View attachment 1382831
Here it is from the front drivers side wheel well.
View attachment 1382832

If you have a decent sized tire on it, that's about right where it rubs.

 

[Runner 68]

I think I have the perfect configuration in mind. Thanks for all your input Gents.
I'll post pics once it's mocked up. My idea is after the DB with minimal custom lines and a clean look.
For what it's worth, I think before or after the DB will work just fine either way based on the feedback here and other research I have done. They both have their pros and cons.
Stay tuned.

 

[bm02tj]

Good to see you are going after less chance of trouble

 

[71Beeper]

If you have a decent sized tire on it, that's about right where it rubs.

RemCharger, I will be running the narrow 3.5" Weld Draglites on the front of mine.
I assume there will be no rubbing.
I'm having issues finding a 28" tall radial front runner tire.

 

[kiwigtx]

Not sure exactly what the reasoning behind installing the roll control is.....but why not just install it after the distribution block, and inline with the feed line to the rear brakes?

If you're wanting to do easy burnouts without hurting the rear brakes, preventing a pressure build up when depressing the brake pedal is the best way to do that.

Of course it means only powering up the solenoid when required, so there won't be much chance of cooking the coil of the solenoid.

 

[RemCharger]

Not sure exactly what the reasoning behind installing the roll control is.....but why not just install it after the distribution block, and inline with the feed line to the rear brakes?

If you're wanting to do easy burnouts without hurting the rear brakes, preventing a pressure build up when depressing the brake pedal is the best way to do that.

Of course it means only powering up the solenoid when required, so there won't be much chance of cooking the coil of the solenoid.

Linelocs in the rear are prohibited at the track, so there is nothing that could potentially lock up.
Not going to the track? Hell you could Plumb it into your windshield washer if you want...

 

[RemCharger]

RemCharger, I will be running the narrow 3.5" Weld Draglites on the front of mine.
I assume there will be no rubbing.
I'm having issues finding a 28" tall radial front runner tire.

Is it for street duty?

 

[Runner 68]

Not sure exactly what the reasoning behind installing the roll control is.....but why not just install it after the distribution block, and inline with the feed line to the rear brakes?

If you're wanting to do easy burnouts without hurting the rear brakes, preventing a pressure build up when depressing the brake pedal is the best way to do that.

Of course it means only powering up the solenoid when required, so there won't be much chance of cooking the coil of the solenoid.

Easy burnouts of course.
This car will never see the track.
Manual tranny. Dumping the clutch then slamming on the brakes is no fun plus it's hard on ****.
It will be installed after the DB since getting feedback from this wonderful site. I will share pics once it's configured.

 

[TrackPack]

This is also a safety item

If the pressure difference continues, the piston will move far enough to completely stop fluid flow to the side with the lower pressure. At this point, the piston will not return to center until the valve is disassembled and reset.

this is same for Mopar

Classic Chevy, Chevrolet, GMC, Ford technical articles

Do it right as in after the block as per instructions

This may be true on some of the later model mopar brake systems, but not on the one in the OP's question.

The piston in mid 60's and early 70's distribution block has limited movement and makes a hard stop in either direction completing the electrical contact with the brake warning light switch at a set front/rear pressure differential. This is a warning light only by design, it does not stop brake fluid flow whatsoever. When front/rear pressure is once again equalized the piston moves off of the switch turning the warning light off. Schematics of this type of distribution block are readily available.

If a line lock is plumbed in after this type of distribution block, and the rear brakes still run through the block, the brake warning light should come on because there will be a front/rear brake pressure differential.

 

[71Beeper]

Is it for street duty?

Yes sir.

I'm hoping to finish it in 2023.

 

[BB BELLA]

I ran a hurst on my fronts right at the master for years,tried both the shift handle button and the micro switch on the shift rod which I prefered,much lighty action. 69 runner with drums, never an issue!I used it almost everytime I hit the brakes! the way I see it just another fluid block valve that will keep brakes applied should master fail during braking!and for double clutching gearing down your feet are free and the brakes still applied! win/win

 

[mike smock]

When I bought my 68 Charger, it came with the line lock installed before the distribution block. Yes, it did illuminate the brake light in the dash when activated with enough pressure. I liked it as it let me know the system and distribution block pressure switch was still working. The install was clean, and easy to spot any line lock solenoid leaks from under the hood. (It only locks the front brakes)

good evening, could i see a picture or two of your line lock installed please. thanks

 

[Black_Sheep]

Not sure exactly what the reasoning behind installing the roll control is.....but why not just install it after the distribution block, and inline with the feed line to the rear brakes?

If you're wanting to do easy burnouts without hurting the rear brakes, preventing a pressure build up when depressing the brake pedal is the best way to do that.

Of course it means only powering up the solenoid when required, so there won't be much chance of cooking the coil of the solenoid.

I have the line-loc plumbed into the rear brakes on the GTX. Engage line loc to prevent getting pressure to the rear, stand on brakes with my left foot and stand on the throttle with my right. It works great if you have an automatic transmission. I used a DPST switch with one side wired to the parking brake switch so the brake light in the dash comes on when the line loc is engaged.