ANOTHER NO SPARK 74 charger

[WheelsOfTerror]

I didn't have the 74 specifically but had another made for 73 and 72, so just had to modify one of them a bit.

Colors should be the correct ones

View attachment 963539

one last thing Nacho- The source of my problems on your diagram was the "run circuit splice"- how did this come from the factory? Was it a terminal on the firewall or something? As I found it it was just a bunch of wires twisted together and electrical taped. I'd love to clear that up to be less sketchy. For now they are twisted, soldered, taped and work fine, but I'd like a cleaner solution and I wonder how Mopar handled this?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Splice is just like that. Twisted and solded. Then usually covered with vinyl tape or cloth tape..

need to note the iddle stop solenoid is not part of the harness. It gets its own plug with a male/female terminal to link the field wire to it. But just wanted to show it on diagram.

 

[WheelsOfTerror]

Perfect, dude! Thanks for your help.

 

[WheelsOfTerror]

Splice is just like that. Twisted and solded. Then usually covered with vinyl tape or cloth tape..

need to note the iddle stop solenoid is not part of the harness. It gets its own plug with a male/female terminal to link the field wire to it. But just wanted to show it on diagram.






View attachment 963685 View attachment 963686

well, it's idled for long periods for several days as I was working out some other issues. When I decided to attempt to pop it into drive and take it on the road- same issue- as soon as it started making RPMs to move *something* popped and then no spark to coil, just like before. I'm going to tear into it, but do you have any advice besides what we've already discussed?

I went through every wire from the ignition to the coil and replaced, resoldered all of it, and taped it up all pretty- now I've got to pop them all back open.

I haven't replaced the coil- so I'm hoping maybe it's old and just blew- I'll test to see if it's getting voltage and then work my way back to the ignition to see where the current stops- unless you have a trick up your sleeve?

Thanks again Nacho

 

[WheelsOfTerror]

well, it's idled for long periods for several days as I was working out some other issues. When I decided to attempt to pop it into drive and take it on the road- same issue- as soon as it started making RPMs to move *something* popped and then no spark to coil, just like before. I'm going to tear into it, but do you have any advice besides what we've already discussed?

I went through every wire from the ignition to the coil and replaced, resoldered all of it, and taped it up all pretty- now I've got to pop them all back open.

I haven't replaced the coil- so I'm hoping maybe it's old and just blew- I'll test to see if it's getting voltage and then work my way back to the ignition to see where the current stops- unless you have a trick up your sleeve?

Thanks again Nacho

After some testing I can see that power is getting to the coil in "run"- something like 5/6 volts, and then it doesn't spike up to 12 with the key in start position- it stays at 5/6volts. I'm going to order some spare ballasts just to have (my replacement was used) and check the ECU pin and grounding in general. further advice welcome.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

That's weird because it should get or 5/6 volts or whatever low voltage rate oooooooor nothing if some failure. If you don't get 12 voltage cranking, the problem is coming from ign switch, steering column plug or bulkhead. Ballast has nothing to do with the Ign2 source to the coil. Will affect the ECU power but not the coil.

A damaged ballast will turn off the brake light ( also oil on standard cluster ) while cranking ( same as no power to ECU ). A good ballast or ign2 circuit will dimm out these lights. &/or no voltage on Ign1 ( RUN ) to the coil

 

[WheelsOfTerror]

Traced the brown wire from coil all the way back to the ignition switch and it's good. I think i've got something grounding out?

 

[WheelsOfTerror]

That's weird because it should get or 5/6 volts or whatever low voltage rate oooooooor nothing if some failure. If you don't get 12 voltage cranking, the problem is coming from ign switch, steering column plug or bulkhead. Ballast has nothing to do with the Ign2 source to the coil. Will affect the ECU power but not the coil.

A damaged ballast will turn off the brake light ( also oil on standard cluster ) while cranking ( same as no power to ECU ). A good ballast or ign2 circuit will dimm out these lights. &/or no voltage on Ign1 ( RUN ) to the coil

I bypassed the steering column plug by soldering/shielding the brown wire outside the steering column plug. I didn't check the bulkhead connection actually- i'll do that now

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I can’t think on a ballast failing like that but maybe is posible? Dunno! You could try to bypass it with a jumper wire between brown and blue wires to check if changes?

 

[WheelsOfTerror]

I've ordered a couple of spare ballasts; I'll give your test a try. should I jump between the blue and brown wire at the ballast connections?

additionally I bypassed the brown wire's terminal at the bulkhead so it is going straight to the coil, more or less, in order to eliminate that connection as a variable.

Now, at the coil, the positive terminal measures about 7 volts with the key in run, and then actually goes DOWN to about 5 volts when you turn the ignition.

As I've eliminated all the other culprits on your list besides the ignition switch, I'll have to try pulling the steering wheel back off and starting over in the steering column. This is my third time in the column trying to chase this gremlin. The first time, I put a replacement ignition switch in, the second time I put the original one back in (after running into problems documented earlier in this thread) Is there an ignition switch replacement manufacturer you'd recommend?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Yes, just like the ballast isn't there. You can simple twist a piece of wire between ballast prongs, nothing fancy. It won't hurt anything. This could discard or not the ballast.

A 5 volts stage trying to crank the engine is reeeeaaaally weird!!!!

I never have bought a new ign switch LOL. Just replaced once mine and was by an used one from an A Body column somehow reach my hand LOL. And was replaced just because the plug burnt on mine.

DAMN! the only pieces I have replaced on my car related to Ign because went broken are ECUs ( 5 or 6 times ) and once ( maybe twice ) the dist pick up coil. I have replaced my ballast just because was yellowed once and my regulator because got a repro Mopar one LOL. OH, and the coil just because went from a stock one from a Blaster 2 Chromed USED! But I'm impressed how many times I read ppl needing to replace Ballast and regulators! And my car was a driver just right before get it into the body shop.

I'm not counting my alternator which has been also fixed or replaced half a dozen of times. Mostly because rotors went bad, once by the diodes bank, some other just getting a better replacement piece for more output power. Couple of brush holders too.

 

[WheelsOfTerror]

Yes, just like the ballast isn't there. You can simple twist a piece of wire between ballast prongs, nothing fancy. It won't hurt anything. This could discard or not the ballast.

A 5 volts stage trying to crank the engine is reeeeaaaally weird!!!!

I never have bought a new ign switch LOL. Just replaced once mine and was by an used one from an A Body column somehow reach my hand LOL. And was replaced just because the plug burnt on mine.

DAMN! the only pieces I have replaced on my car related to Ign because went broken are ECUs ( 5 or 6 times ) and once ( maybe twice ) the dist pick up coil. I have replaced my ballast just because was yellowed once and my regulator because got a repro Mopar one LOL. OH, and the coil just because went from a stock one from a Blaster 2 Chromed USED! But I'm impressed how many times I read ppl needing to replace Ballast and regulators! And my car was a driver just right before get it into the body shop.

I'm not counting my alternator which has been also fixed or replaced half a dozen of times. Mostly because rotors went bad, once by the diodes bank, some other just getting a better replacement piece for more output power. Couple of brush holders too.

I am relieved you would say my issue is weird, because if it were an EASY problem and the car is still off the road I'd feel super incompetent lol. I've ordered new ballasts and new ignition switch (I found a Mopar original on ebay for like $33). I will definitely let you know what it was, once I get it figured out. At this point the electrical issue is the only thing keeping it off the road.

Sounds like you're car is a lucky one, electric-wise! Too bad it hasn't given a man of your talents and knowledge a real challenge lol.
What are the details of your car? Is it a '73? Are you able to get parts down there in Venezuela?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I was to attach an example of a non fancy jumper which will be enough LOL

Yes I have had REAL CHALLENGES... once a missfire which I found it was a reversed dist pick up wires made by somebody in the past. This was before I learnt about.

The greatest challenge was a discharge reading but 18 volts at batt iddling. when giving RPMs, voltage raised up to 24 but the ammeter barelly read slightly passing by the center. On both stages the engine stalled when disconected the batt.
Failure ? one of the vent vanes of the rotor was geting friction with one of the leads of the diodes bank, causing a pulsating short while spinning. It took me around an hour and a half to get it. It was at the next day I replaced the rotor in it, but tested on bench was everything good

Parts in Vzla ? Chrysler had assembly plant back from the 50s up to lates 70s ( my car was assembled in Venezuela ), so there was many Mopar parts dealer, and still now some with NOS parts ( I have got NOS valances, driver door, Tail lights and some smaller stuff more for my car ). Sure latelly is being harder and they are closing their doors.

Mine is 74, but in Venezuela 74s were wired like a 71 somehow ( without any of the seatbelt sensors stuff ). I become it into a Northamerican 74. It was a "partial" rallye look, but standard cluster so I also got a Rallye cluster from USA fairly cheap ( when it was still posible yet ) with switches and knobs ( wiper knob is hard and not cheap ), Found a NOS rear sway bar locally, got the rest of parts used from USA so added the rear sway bar to become it on a full rallye. Then found locally some Kmh speedos, hard to find on Rallye clusters because they were equipped on some really hard to find 74 Special Edition Coronets and become my Rallye cluster on a Kmh speedo. Had to mix several speedo parts because were damaged. Of course my standard cluster was km.


I'm right now in Spain ( so you can find a reason for some delay on some responses... timezone ), waiting my car is finished from a deep body and paint job in Vzla and bring it to me. If dictatorship in Vzla doesn't block anything else. I still have to go back to Vzla to assembly it. Engine is being fixed too.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

If you really need to replace your ign switch and the one you got it gets a thin black wire added what your car doesn't have it, cut it. You don't need it and is a ground which for whatever reason it seems some cars need, but not ours and will meet with the cluster ilumination network from your car. Even Mopar began to make generic replacement parts I think in the late 80s or maybe 90s for several models just needed to be matched with your exact need

 

[71dodgechargerrt]

Nacho I am just doing my switch for my 71 and the new one has that black wire. Will it cause any issue if I just leave it alone? Also the two barrel pin connectors on the end of the key buzzer switch, does anyone sell those? I was going to reuse my ole ones but if I can get new I would rather do that.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Black wire coming with new switch is a ground signal which I THINK is activated when cranking. if BY CASUALITY you crank out your car with lights on, will blow the cluster lights fuse ( well, all the one controlled by the dimmer wheel ). You can just remove it from plug and let it hang around... or cut it. Those with shifter columns will need to remove it anyway to conect the column shifter light so is hard to them make the mistake because for them is mandatory, but floor shifter can get the mistake to leave it in place.

Those barrel terminals are called MOLEX standard pin. They are available on 0.062" and 0.093" at most of the electrical suppliers. I guess you smashed them a bit trying to remove them from the old switch plug and reinstall on the new one. They are easy to fix, but if you still want to replace, that's the name. ATX computer power plants plugs use that kind of pins too.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

( back in the days when Radio Shack still existed, they used to sell blisters of them out of the shelf )

 

[71dodgechargerrt]

Thank for the information. I got the plugs out ok once I discovered how to, but they are crimped so tight by the pin it was hard to get in there and open. I will try again but if I can get new ones that's the way to go. I had thought about sodering them if I could not replace.