Boiling my fuel.

[STREETREBEL]

What's everybody using to insulate there fuel lines from the heat?

 

[beanhead]

I used some adhesive silver heat tape stuff, I think it was called thermo-tec? But they had it at O'Reilly's, it's about an inch and a half wide and comes in a roll... I also used it around my shifter cable seems to work well, I put some zip ties around it in places to keep it from unsticking

 

[Lionized]

Buy a phenolic spacer for your carburetor.

 

[STREETREBEL]

Buy a phenolic spacer for your carburetor.

I've done that. If I idle for 10 minutes or so, the fuel line that
runs up my firewall gets really hot. I can takeoff and the engines runs fine for about a 100 yard then the carb blows fuel out the vent tubes and floods the engine.

 

[Lionized]

I've done that. If I idle for 10 minutes or so, the fuel line that
runs up my firewall gets really hot. I can takeoff and the engines runs fine for about a 100 yard then the carb blows fuel out the vent tubes and floods the engine.

What temperature is the engine when this is happening?
What fuel are you running?
I'm running Chevron 94 ( no ethanol!!) and my fuel only boils when the engine is very hot (200+). I have some cooling issues I need to solve which will remedy this such as adding a clutch fan, replacing the thermostat, upper and lower hoses as well as coolant. I'm not running a spacer as I no longer have room for one.

 

[69 GTX]

I used this. Covered all my lines from tank to the rocker in back. Then from trans crossmember to fuel pump. I like the Velcro for lines that are already in place.

 

[Mike67]

DEI
www.designengineering.com//category/catalog/design-engineering-inc/line-hose-protection/ultra-47-sheath

 

[STREETREBEL]

It's a 8 to 1 comp. 440 engine. Engine temp is180. I run 91 no methanol.

 

[ckessel]

No alcohol that you know of. Out here in the PRC, they are sneaky and we can have upwards of 15% without them fully disclosing it. Alcohol really lowers the boiling point of the fuel. On my 65 with the 3" TTI system, it would boil it in the tank too even though there was minimum 2" of clearance between. New setup will have more plus will get shielding in between. Anywhere you can shield/wrap will help plus maybe re-route some if possible. For sure do the shield between the carb and manifold plus you may want to consider blocking off the exhaust cross over in the manifold. Alcohol in the fuel can make the engine hotter under the hood which adds to the fun. There are some posts here of what others have done to help the problem and its interesting that its all over the country plus down under.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I used to have a TERRIBLE fuel boiling problem & mine was solved with just the phenolic carb spacers. In general, I think you only need to insulate the fuel line where it comes close to the engine/exhaust. Blocking off the heat cross-over in the intake is a good idea (as ckessel said). On mine, having an electric only fuel system (fuel pump near tank, not bolted to hot engine) probably helps. You could also put in one of those 440 six pack/Hemi (?) factory fuel vapor separator cans that bolts up near the stock fuel pump. An old racer's trick was a "cool can" which was basically an ice bucket with a loop of fuel line inside.

And if it's boiling out of the carburetors....you might check your floats, needle/seats, and fuel level just to be sure it's actually boiling fuel.

 

[AMX364]

the fuel line that
runs up my firewall gets really hot

He is running up his firewall and the heat from the exhaust is boiling the gas. I used a heat sleeve that required disconnecting the line to run the sleeve over the metal lines.

 

[STREETREBEL]

[REPLY="PurpleBeeper, post: 910687983, member: 6398"]I used to have a TERRIBLE fuel boiling problem & mine was solved with just the phenolic carb spacers. In general, I think you only need to insulate the fuel line where it comes close to the engine/exhaust. Blocking off the heat cross-over in the intake is a good idea (as ckessel said). On mine, having an electric only fuel system (fuel pump near tank, not bolted to hot engine) probably helps. You could also put in one of those 440 six pack/Hemi (?) factory fuel vapor separator cans that bolts up near the stock fuel pump. An old racer's trick was a "cool can" which was basically an ice bucket with a loop of fuel line inside.


And if it's boiling out of the carburetors....you might check your floats, needle/seats, and fuel level just to be sure it's actually boiling fuel.[/REPLY]

Thanks for the reply's.
I have a phenolic carb spacers.
And already check the floats, level.
Always wanted a cool can. I think I'll get one anyway!

 

[747mopar]

I used an insulated sock that you pull over the line, Summit sells them. Most people are reluctant to do it but adding an electric fan really helps keep air moving at idle when your mechanical fan is at it's worst.

 

[STREETREBEL]

He is running up his firewall and the heat from the exhaust is boiling the gas. I used a heat sleeve that required disconnecting the line to run the sleeve over the metal lines.

Thanks again.
I just did that. We'll see what happens.

 

[sputnik 440]

Thanks again.
I just did that. We'll see what happens.

When you speak of blocking off the heat cross-over, what is the best way to do it. I really don't want to change the pan but if it is the best way then so be it. Also, the restoration shop ran metal tubing from tank to fuel filter under the passenger sill plate. From there they ran rubber fuel line to the mechanical fuel pump and from the pump to the pressure gauge, and, more rubber to the chrome tubing supplying fuel to each end of the Holley double pumper. Does this sound right? Does the rubber line provide the necessary insulation? Does it create other short or long term problems?

 

[Baller]

No alcohol that you know of. Out here in the PRC, they are sneaky and we can have upwards of 15% without them fully disclosing it.

Chevron in BC advertises it as 'contains no ethanol' on the pumps. My brother in law works at the local (former Chevron) refinery and confirms that it doesn't contain any (as far as he knows) ethanol.

 

[themechanic]

DEI wrap (or Summit equivalent) on the fuel line should bring the fuel temp down.

 

[ckessel]

When you speak of blocking off the heat cross-over, what is the best way to do it. I really don't want to change the pan but if it is the best way then so be it. Also, the restoration shop ran metal tubing from tank to fuel filter under the passenger sill plate. From there they ran rubber fuel line to the mechanical fuel pump and from the pump to the pressure gauge, and, more rubber to the chrome tubing supplying fuel to each end of the Holley double pumper. Does this sound right? Does the rubber line provide the necessary insulation? Does it create other short or long term problems?

Mopar Perfomance carries the intake bathtubs for the b/rb which have the crossovers blocked. Price isn't bad and yes you have to pull the intake, loosen components etc but at least you don't lose coolant like an la motor. The LA motors used a little block off piece on the gaskets I believe. This will help keep a fair amount of heat off the carb/carbs and getting more airflow across the engine can help too.

 

[Lionized]

When you speak of blocking off the heat cross-over, what is the best way to do it. I really don't want to change the pan but if it is the best way then so be it. Also, the restoration shop ran metal tubing from tank to fuel filter under the passenger sill plate. From there they ran rubber fuel line to the mechanical fuel pump and from the pump to the pressure gauge, and, more rubber to the chrome tubing supplying fuel to each end of the Holley double pumper. Does this sound right? Does the rubber line provide the necessary insulation? Does it create other short or long term problems?

Personally I would swap that out to steel lines.

 

[69 GTX]

I thought that I read steel lines were better(for vapor lock) than rubber but I'm not sure.