Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch

[moparedtn]

I've installed one of these clutch packages (11" in this case) on my 440 with an A833 23 spline transmission.
I have the driveline back in the car and am about to install all the clutch linkage/z-bar, etc. with new hardware from Brewer's.
Yes, before anyone asks - my over-center spring has already been disconnected from under the dash. What a bear that was.

Problem is, the Centerforce package came with zero installation instructions and there's none to download on their website that I can find, either.

Specifically, how does one adjust the clutch linkage on these initially while under the car?
TIA!

 

[5.7 hemi]

The threaded rod attached to the clutch fork.

 

[moparedtn]

The threaded rod attached to the clutch fork.

I phrased the question wrong apparently. I know how one adjusts a clutch.
My question is more to do with initial setting/adjustment when putting the linkage back together on a new Centerforce, i.e. how much free play to set things for to get you close enough to fine tune later once the car is back on the ground.
Do you simply run the adjuster about halfway up the threads?
Are you looking for so much fork travel before engagement?

 

[440+6]

I already sent you the instructions, but here you go again.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...o-one-last-time.125570/page-12#post-910624705

 

[dvw]

My Challenger has a clutch stop. The clutch pedal doesn't need to go anywhere close to all the way to the floor.
Doug

 

[moparedtn]

I already sent you the instructions, but here you go again.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...o-one-last-time.125570/page-12#post-910624705

I remember and thanks again, but that's not exactly what I'm asking either.
I'm obviously not explaining it right.
I have the required "free play" right now with the transmission all bolted up and everything (throwout bearing does clear the clutch fingers with some air gap to spare, just like the instructions say).
What I'm looking for here may not be possible for anyone to answer - it's got more to do with adjusting the clutch linkage itself so that the release point is the preferred 1/3 to 1/2 way from the top of pedal travel inside the car.

I am just wondering if there's a corresponding approximate clutch adjusting nut position I can do while under the car that gets you in the ballpark of that desired 1/3 to 1/2 travel - without actually having to get in the car to check it.
Does that make any sense?
Would I simply run up the adjuster nut until any slack on the rod end of the clutch fork is taken up?

 

[Fran Blacker]

I think it would have something to do with the length of the arms on the torque arm. (I call it a bellcrank)

 

[440+6]

You need to push the pedal to the floor, adjust the nut to get the clearance between the disk and flywheel.
Release the pedal, check for gap between throw out bearing and clutch fingers, you should have .25 inch +\- , if ok you are done and the clutch will engage abut 1\3 up from floor.
Just drive it now!

Forgot, start with the nut threaded all the way down near the z bar.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

That's something you need to drive the car and tweak. Usually they can be adjusted without jacking up the car. I've done mine several times on the driveway just to get it where I want it. Just watch the hot exhaust.

I remember and thanks again, but that's not exactly what I'm asking either.
I'm obviously not explaining it right.
I have the required "free play" right now with the transmission all bolted up and everything (throwout bearing does clear the clutch fingers with some air gap to spare, just like the instructions say).
What I'm looking for here may not be possible for anyone to answer - it's got more to do with adjusting the clutch linkage itself so that the release point is the preferred 1/3 to 1/2 way from the top of pedal travel inside the car.

I am just wondering if there's a corresponding approximate clutch adjusting nut position I can do while under the car that gets you in the ballpark of that desired 1/3 to 1/2 travel - without actually having to get in the car to check it.
Does that make any sense?
Would I simply run up the adjuster nut until any slack on the rod end of the clutch fork is taken up?

 

[moparedtn]

You need to push the pedal to the floor, adjust the nut to get the clearance between the disk and flywheel.
Release the pedal, check for gap between throw out bearing and clutch fingers, you should have .25 inch +\- , if ok you are done and the clutch will engage abut 1\3 up from floor.
Just drive it now!
Forgot, start with the nut threaded all the way down near the z bar.

That's what I'm looking for right there. Thanks!

 

[moparedtn]

That's something you need to drive the car and tweak. Usually they can be adjusted without jacking up the car. I've done mine several times on the driveway just to get it where I want it. Just watch the hot exhaust.

Once it's all back together and running, sure. Of course.
Was looking for a starting point while putting things back together.

 

[Cornpatch MO]

I think it would have something to do with the length of the arms on the torque arm. (I call it a bellcrank)

I believe you are over thinking it. If your linkage has the right geometry, your Centerforce has what you are asking about, built into it. You have some amount of gap between the throw out bearing and the clutch fork fingers , the way you have it adjusted. When you push the pedal to the floor , the clutch dis- engages. If not, something is wrong with your linkage, clutch fork , pivot , etc. After you have used the clutch for a while, and everything "seats in" You will probably need to re-adjust your free play. .............................MO

 

[dvw]

You can measure the air gap at the disc with the cover removed, .060" will get you very close.
Doug

 

[moparedtn]

I believe you are over thinking it. If your linkage has the right geometry, your Centerforce has what you are asking about, built into it. You have some amount of gap between the throw out bearing and the clutch fork fingers , the way you have it adjusted. When you push the pedal to the floor , the clutch dis- engages. If not, something is wrong with your linkage, clutch fork , pivot , etc. After you have used the clutch for a while, and everything "seats in" You will probably need to re-adjust your free play. .............................MO

Going under the car here in just a few minutes to start putting linkage back on.
I still don't quite understand what makes the clutch pedal return to the top, though, since I unhooked the under-dash mega-spring.
GUess I'm about to find out.

 

[Fran Blacker]

There is a spring from clutch to bell housing to keep throw out bearing away from clutch.

 

[amo]

why did you take the spring out from under dash ?? just did mine last week with the same set up I did not take the spring out

 

[5.7 hemi]

Diaphragm clutches require the over center spring to be removed.

 

[moparedtn]

why did you take the spring out from under dash ?? just did mine last week with the same set up I did not take the spring out

Centerforce specifically says you have to with the diaphragm clutch. Otherwise, the clutch pedal can go to the floor and stay there.

 

[moparedtn]

I'm all done under the car, clutch is adjusted so it engages about halfway up pedal travel. It feels great and so does the replacement 4 speed.

Still asking, though - how does one get the pedal to come all the way back up without the over-center spring engaged? Or is that even normal that it doesn't?

 

[440+6]

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