Compounding Help Needed

[The Rebel]

Hey guys. Need some help here. As you can see from my threads I've applied my clear coat.

As I understand it the next step is to apply compound, so I picked up some Mequiar's Ultimate Compound. According to what I've read I have to wait 3 days until I can apply it. Seeing it's going to be in the 90's all week my car will bake in my garage.

Before I compound the car can I wash it to remove the sanding dust, as long as I do not use a soap that contains any wax?

What I don't understand is that it's ok to compound but I can polish/wax the car for 90 days (per the paint shop)? Why is that? What does the polish/wax do the paint/clearcoat?

I could either do this by hand or I could use my orbital polisher/waxer, what's the best way.

Thanks in advance!

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/touching-up-paint-chips.155664/

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...work-in-progress.138274/page-6#post-911016800

 

[Fervantmender]

Hello rebel
So the paint will continue releasing solvents for some time if a wax is used it will clog the poors that the solvent is venting through causing the clear coat to haze over.
I haven’t heard about the three day rule for compounding I’ve never had any trouble in that area but if you aren’t in a hurry it may not be a bad idea.
I’m not sure how your clear laid down but I don’t think you will get much result from just compound. I would wetsand and buff with different compounds and buffing attachments
Some shops don’t charge an extreme amount to buff it out for you it may not be much more than the cost of all the consumables you would have to buy.
Hope this helps

 

[The Rebel]

Thanks! I was following these tips: https://www.paintscratch.com/touch-up-paint-directions/

Hello rebel
So the paint will continue releasing solvents for some time if a wax is used it will clog the poors that the solvent is venting through causing the clear coat to haze over.
I haven’t heard about the three day rule for compounding I’ve never had any trouble in that area but if you aren’t in a hurry it may not be a bad idea.
I’m not sure how your clear laid down but I don’t think you will get much result from just compound. I would wetsand and buff with different compounds and buffing attachments
Some shops don’t charge an extreme amount to buff it out for you it may not be much more than the cost of all the consumables you would have to buy.
Hope this helps

 

[Fervantmender]

Sorry I was assuming.
I just repaired a scratch last week but I still had to wetsand to get the repair area the same paint level.
It’s worth a try.

 

[Aarons Air]

Just went through all this. You"ll need to wet sand 1st. Flatten out all the orange peel. Then compound. But start with mcguires 105.. Then go to 205 or the ultimate for removing swirls left by the 105. The ultimate compound isn't abrasive enough to start with.

 

[Aarons Air]

If you ate doing this yourself, the best advice i can offer, and i strongly offer it, is to stay away ftom the edges & body lines. It is EXTREMELY easy to go through the paint in these spots. Ask me how i know. Lol.

 

[Aarons Air]

I got best results using a wool pad for 105. And a foam pad for 205. Sorry i didn't think to post this all at once.

 

[Aarons Air]

Feel free to pm me if you want more detail on wet sanding etc.

 

[The Rebel]

Thanks for all of your help, I really appreciate it!

Feel free to pm me if you want more detail on wet sanding etc.

 

[Aarons Air]

Thanks for all of your help, I really appreciate it!

I've bern through a few back to back paint horror stories. And learned a lot along the way. I'm happy to help others avoid them !

 

[The Rebel]

OUCH!

I've bern through a few back to back paint horror stories. And learned a lot along the way. I'm happy to help others avoid them !
View attachment 635163

 

[69L48Z27]

What clear did you use?

 

[The Rebel]

What clear did you use?

 

[69L48Z27]

The 1k is not a chemical reaction like a 2k clear would be, like if you refinished the car. Waiting a few days may be the right call. You'll know pretty quick if it's not hardened yet.

Compound and polish are not the same as wax. As stated, the wax will not let it out gas and cure properly. Compounding and polishing are usually done same day as paint in a high volume collision shop.

Set the car in the sun, the UV will bake it quick. I don't have any experience with Meguires but you shouldn't have to use a very aggressive compound if you sanded in 2000 or higher. Wool cuts faster but with small repairs it's not going to make a big difference. Depending on how large the area is you could probably do it by hand. Use a terry material vs microfiber if you do it by hand. The terry material is more aggressive.

 

[Aarons Air]

Just saw the spray can pics. I thought you were using a spray gun with base coat & clear coat. I don't think most of my advice would apply here. As i believe the hardeners are different.

 

[Officer Higgins]

Wax and sealants not including the new batch of nano coatings, all contain amino functional resins. These are designed to bond together over the surface of the paint film to seal it. However it is such a super thin film it really cant last long. I worked for waxoyl and then the company that sued waxoyl for some complicated things that involved ego more then anything. That company was automotive international they developed there own products and i tested much of there chemist made sealants. Alot of the waiting period before sealing has to do with letting the paint setup. In days past before catalyzing of finishes we were relying on the solvents to evaporate out of the finish. Alkyd enamel,nitrocelluose and acrylic lacquer. Today we force cure paints with chemical activation. There is still some solvents that evaporate out but not nearly as much as old paint types. I have never had any problems waxing after paint to think that solvents that thin and dissolve wax is not going to be able to breach a microfilm sealant is silly.depending on what your finish sanding grit is , will determine how you process the finish. One product i highy recommend and its not cheap but it can save you the whole multiprocess compounding and finishing steps is finesse it by 3m. Compounding is always messy on a mopar with the cowl vent area compound gets in that area and is pain to get out. Good luck on your project, don't want to overwhelm you, i just have done so many through the years.

 

[The Rebel]

Thanks everyone for your help!