Converting to a hydraulic throw out bearing/clutch system

[biomedtechguy]

This is the brand recommended to me:
https://apexdrivetrain.com/shop/hydraulic-clutch-systems/mopar-hydraulic-kit-18-spline/
For now, I mainly cruise and occasionally hit the 1320. The biggest "event" I use my 70 440+6 Roadrunner for is the week of Cruisin the Coast. That week is a lot of driving, stop and go. Once I get some suspension issues resolved I expect to do more track days. Once I get a new motor built, the trips to the track may increase again. If I had to guess, maybe twice a month.
So I would like your experience with hydraulic clutches, recommendations on who makes the BEST, and what to expect.
Thanks.

 

[aeon280]

I installed this kit on my coronet but don't have road time yet. This same kit is sold by American powertrain. Install was a bit involved. I suppose you could do it with the pedals installed but it would be a pain because you have to drill a new hole behind the factory lever arm. You will also need to reinforce the firewall where the master cylinder mounts. I just used body panel epoxy and a piece of 16 gauge.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Thanks.
More experiences and advice on hydraulic clutches (throw out bearing) please!

 

[5.7 hemi]

I have the American Powertrain set up on my Dart. The set up of the tb is super easy. After you have the clutch/pp in you measure from the fingers to the outside of the bell housing. Say you get 4.00. Now you install the tb on the trans with the block they sent and bolt. Measure from the face of the trans to the face of the tb. Say it’s 4.125. Great, you’ve got .125 of air gap, I think they want a tad less, but you get the idea. Install the trans. Hook up the hydraulic line, bleed it. Your done. I love mine. No problems, shifts great and it’s super easy to push the clutch in.

 

[biomedtechguy]

I just found this Hot Rod Magazine online article.
PERFECT as they are installing it on the same transmission I have, the Passon Performance a855!
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/american-powertrains-hydraulic-throwout-bearing-conversion-kit/

 

[biomedtechguy]

super easy to push the clutch in.

I was hoping that would be a benefit.
My pressure plate is a McLeod diaphragm style, but high clamping pressure appx 2,950 pounds, and it's a little tough on my old beat up knee.

 

[5.7 hemi]

I’ve got the American Powertrain Slayer clutch set up on my 470, no break in required and the pedal is easy to push. Way easier than my buddy’s CenterForce clutch set up and he’s also using the mechanical linkage set up on his.

 

[biomedtechguy]

American Powertrain Slayer clutch

I looked at the Slayer after you posted.
How "bad" or "rough" is it on the street?
I'm asking because I need to try different solutions for poor traction on launch at the track. My 60 ft times suck. Over 2 seconds. Anyway, I have a line lock I need to install, and I have a RMS StreetLynx or Gerst triangulated rear suspension system high on the "to do" list. I'm pretty sure my factory leaf springs are weak, even though they have the extra rear passenger side leaf(s). I came to that conclusion because the top of the line Mancini pinion snubber BENT from wrap up my first time down the track...
Anyway, I am going to get the ClutchTamer which will control in a consistent manner the last bit of clutch engagement, which means a lot of heat will be imparted on my surface areas.
Right now, I have a composite full disc, street strip McLeod disc and pp.
I'm thinking maybe I will need an upgrade, but I'm going to try the one I have first.
ClutchTamer:
http://clutchtamer.com/
But WAIT! New for hydraulic TB clutches (This I've never seen before, could be an even better way of doing the launch adjustments):
For hydraulic clutches, the HITMASTER!
http://grannys.tripod.com/hitmaster.html

 

[5.7 hemi]

It’s absolutely perfect on the street. I can slip (like pulling onto a car trailer) and when I let it completely out, hold onto to your fillings! Very streetable, and grabs when you want. I can’t say enough about it.

 

[biomedtechguy]

So I got the American Powertrain hydraulic system at a booth they had setup at Cruisin the Coast.
I may get the remote reservoir if I have a problem with space for the attached plastic reservoir.
Any feedback on that? I have manual brakes, and I always will, so is the extra space no brake booster provides a factor or should I get the remote reservoir for other reasons?

 

[5.7 hemi]

The mc sits down low by the frame rail at an angle so what you have is a remote reservoir. They include a length of hose to meet the mc. So mount the reservoir where ya like. Also a billet aluminum one is available if ya want some bling.

 

[biomedtechguy]

The mc sits down low by the frame rail at an angle so what you have is a remote reservoir. They include a length of hose to meet the mc. So mount the reservoir where ya like. Also a billet aluminum one is available if ya want some bling.

The unit I saw on display had me confused. It looked like the plastic reservoir was attached to the top of the Wilwood master cylinder. I see in the picture of the one they installed here that the plastic one can also be remote located:

I'll call tomorrow and make sure my i's are dotted, t's crossed. At this point, what's another $100 for the billet remote reservoir? I hate to piss money away, but even if it's less susceptible to heat it may be worth the cost of the aluminum reservoir.
Thanks.
Any reason not to just use the existing clutch rod hole in the firewall? I want to get the new rod at the angle that requires the least amount of force to disengage the clutch.
The 2,900# pressure plate is KILLING my beat up old knee!

 

[5.7 hemi]

That’s where it goes on the firewall, just need to drill a few holes for the bolts. I liked the plastic, see at a glance where the fluid level is.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Thanks for your help!!

 

[rolling_Thunder]

I am running a hydraulic clutch set up on my 68 Charger - very easy to set up - I used a McLeod cylinder and had to fabricate everything to mount it (this was 12 years ago before these kits were around) - I am running a McLeod diaphragm clutch set up on my old Tremec and it works very well - I actually used a wrong sized bore so I could keep the overcenter spring - and it works extremely well - even pressure when pushing down and it made it easy to route the lines around the headers for my hemi.

I am rebuilding my T-56 so I will be able to hook my existing system to the new TO bearing just as easy...