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Crate engine vs. rebuild, what are your thoughts?

Skip the fuel delivery changes. Swap the LA front timing chain cover forwards onto the 5.9. Hughesengines has a trick part to bolt into the shorter cam snout of a Magnum engine or swap a long snout Hyd. roller cam in for a LA series engine because that has the provisions for a fuel pump eccentric.

A B&M flexplate can be used for the converter for use of a neutral balance converter. A new front balanced will be needed to be sourced.

To skip the above balance issues, a 5.2 should be used.


Bingo!
Best of luck to the OP.
Thanks rumblefish360! I hear you and I will continue to try and diagnose before I make a big decision and spend a bunch of money. I appreciate the information and suggestions!
 
Thanks for the info Jim! I just spoke with Andy from Baker Machine shop here in Tucson. He rebuilt my 69 Corvette 427 last year. I was asking about rebuild costs and he said $2000 to $2500 depending on condition. He also mentioned that he has a 1974 or 1975 360 he rebuilt a year ago that the owner never picked up. He said it is a little warmed up and he has $2300 in it and would sell that for $2000. So that is another option. I believe they are the same block and should bolt up, but I know there were some changes after 1974, but I am not sure what they were. So if it us a 1975 block there could be some additional issues.
2k.....that’s a good price for a well built 360
 
What do you think about the 360 at Baker Machine for $2000?
Sounds like a good deal to me. 360s are externally balanced so I think you need to do a bit more for the swap. Not an expert so I’ll let someone else explain what is needed. :)
 
Also now I have done some playing with engine building software the extra stroke gives you the torque where you want it for normal driving. The 318 will wind up faster but we will see on the Duster build.
 
IMHO, take the 360; you will love the difference.
So if I end up going with the 360, is there a thread where someone goes over the differences, and what I will need to make the change???
 
So if I end up going with the 360, is there a thread where someone goes over the differences, and what I will need to make the change???
As already mentioned, they are externally balanced, so you would need a different balancer (may already have it) and converter. I think everything else will bolt up
 
My Mopar buddy Carl listened, I listened, and my shop owner Tom listened and none of us can pin it down. Tom said that when you pull the spark plug for #5, the noise mostly goes away. It looks like we will need to tear down the engine to find it, and if I go that far, I am either rebuilding or replacing this engine.

did they use the old school broom handle trick?
seriously,use a shortened broom handle or a toilet plunger handle.
stick it right on the engine while its running and youll be able to Clearly hear where its coming from and also the severity.
put one end in your Ear,and the other end on the motor valve cover to start,
and work down and around that number 5.
itll get louder as you get to the problem and softer as you move further away.
good luck and best wishes.
 
So if I end up going with the 360, is there a thread where someone goes over the differences, and what I will need to make the change???
if you do decide to go 360,get a complete engine/parts from donor car<< not a truck because you will need those motor mounts,oil pan,and torque convertor from the trans.
try to grab the trans as well,it should be a 727.

also,because your car is the simple pad mounts,dont buy a 73 or up motor because the mounts will not fit your car nor will the motor really be worth doing because of compression and hp ratings.

if you like your car the way it is,
then fix the 318 or get another 318 and save up for the donor big block parts later perhaps.
if you decide you do want and cant live without a 360,then look around for Campers or Rv-s.
you can find these dirt cheap and are usually super low mileage.
the trans are also heavy duty
then about the only major hurdle will be oil pan/pickup and mounts,which can be a pita.
 
And, just for the fun of it, pick-up a can of Marvel Mystery Oil at your local parts store and add it to the oil. A sticky lifter will make a tick and Marvel may help...
 
A rod bearing would be spun by now if it was the issue, and a piston pin will usually give a double knock. Lifters will tic, a rounded cam can be noisy from too muck valve train play, and be quite noticeable at the rocker due to a lack of movement. I have had a cracked piston skirt sound like a knock, and bout drove me crazy looking for it. By removing the spark plug will relieve some of the firing pressure on it, and quiet it down.
 
The 340 and 360 can be installed in the 66-69 B-Bodies by using the 318 "K" Member,
insulators, and right side bracket PN-2536125 and the 340 left side bracket PN-3418400.

So in a nut shell you can use your right 318 motor mount but you will have to locate a 340-360 left mount.

Also, Chrysler makes a torque converter balance kit which includes the weights and a location template so you know where to tack weld them on. P4120241 or P5249843.
IMO, I would buy the 360 for the $2000. The 360 is a great little motor.
 
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did they use the old school broom handle trick?
seriously,use a shortened broom handle or a toilet plunger handle.
stick it right on the engine while its running and youll be able to Clearly hear where its coming from and also the severity.
put one end in your Ear,and the other end on the motor valve cover to start,
and work down and around that number 5.
itll get louder as you get to the problem and softer as you move further away.
good luck and best wishes.
I think my buddy Carl did listen with a stethoscope. Even with that, he could not pinpoint the issue. The engine builder I called this morning suggested checking for a spark plug arc, then take the exhaust manifold loose and look for a leak and replace with a new gasket and go from there. I will give it another try. I appreciate the suggestion!
 
I think my buddy Carl did listen with a stethoscope.

stooges.jpg
 
Blue Print Engines seem to have a good reputation. Just a thought,maybe timing chain slap is the noise ? I re-gasketed the 318 in my truck,did the new timing chain and steel gears but didn't install a slack tension kit. Man is it noisy at idle.
I called blueprint engines and left a message, but from what I see on their website, it looks like the only do high performance engines. I will let you all know what I find out when they call back.
 
very rarely have i had a 318 fail..but
i once had a 318 kick 2 rods out of the block and keep on running long enough to get me home.
i really felt bad for the lady who was right on my *** for the oilscreen i laid down but...
it was captain obvious with smoke pouring out of everywheres..her fault really.

for the next few days,i amused my friends by firing said motor back up and letting it run,
with the hole in the block and no rods and not much oil.
Thats a Dodge.
 
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