Deck cleaning & head installation

[Mike67]

So I ordered my ARP head studs from Pace and they are scheduled to arrive Friday in preperation of installing the RPM heads.
That being said there is still copper coat on the deck surface, whats the best way to clean it?
Also should I go ahead and install the cam with the heads off or wait until they are on? I did pick up a Summit degreeing kit at the swap meet last week.
Any recommendations on a pushrod length checker?
Thanks guys

 

[747mopar]

Wish I could remember what they're called but I use the scrotchbrite looking disc on a 90 degree die grinder... I'll try to find a picture. One thing I like to do before bolting anything on is confirm that all oil passages are clear. I spray a parts cleaner threw the passages to be certain that I can see it exit. This is the best time to check the passage from the cam bearings to the rockers before cam install.
Other than that I see no reason you can't install it now.

 

[miller]

Is the block still bare? I'd use a scotchbrite pad, wet with kerosene, to clean the head surface.
Also suggest install the cam first, before any other parts, in case you have a tight bearing to deal with.

 

[1967coronet440]

Scotch bride pad works great

 

[Cranky]

I used to start with the crank and then do rods and pistons but after seeing so many having problems with tight cam bearings, I started sticking in the cam as my first component to go into the block. Thing is, I've never had to deal with tight bearing and wonder if it's because of the type of cam bearing tool I have.....?

 

[1967coronet440]

I've also used these pads work pretty well

 

[Mike67]

I have a bunch of different roto-lok scothbrite disc so thats not a problem, or are y'all using the rectangular pads on a 2x4 or something square?
The bottom end is assembled, which I planned on taking apart anyways just to clean and check all the clearances and clean thoroughly.
The motor was supposedly built about 7 years ago where it sat. All of the assembly lube has gummed up and it looks pretty nasty. I bought a bunch of small bottle brushes to clean out the passages. Ive thought about just taking to a local shop to have it hot tanked/sonic cleaned.

I've also used these pads work pretty well
I almost bought some of those....

Cranky youve seen the motor, should I just send it out?
Thanks

 

[miller]

If your going to bust it down, anyway...do that first. Once that's done, you can have at it, on the head surfaces. Pads, or even a rotory wire brush, as long as your at a point that you can 'completely' clean the block after.
Yeah, that assembly lube will dry out, if it sits too long. (That's why I mix oil with mine!)
And, yes on the brushes, maybe even a set of block brushes, and scrub out all the oil ports. Might want to consider pulling the block plugs, and get in there, too, since it's been sitting that many years. In a nutshell, re-doing the whole thing, start fresh.

 

[Cranky]

Never did a sonic cleaning.....and a caustic vat (shops still use them?) is probably the nastiest place an engine could see but if it's really gungy, then yeah but I still like using a good rifle cleaning kit to shove brushes into all the oil passageways etc no matter what method is used to clean the block and heads......and don't forget to pay attention to the cooling passage ways too. A lot of people do not and then end up with cooling problems from loose rust scale and crud clogging the radiator and the small passageways in the heads.

 

[747mopar]

Good suggestion on the coolant passages. I recently tore down a 318 for my dad's truck, the frost plugs were rotted threw but it still held water from all the buildup in the lower jacket.

 

[747mopar]

The t
Roti loc scrotchbrite are was I was talking about, they work great.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

Never use a wiz wheel on your deck. Laquer thinner, razor blade, and red scotch brite pad (use by hand) is all you need.

 

[65-440]

If your not comfortable using a whiz wheel with the scotch brite disc then use the green rubber ones. They work good on sealing surfaces without causing damage. The scotch brite ones are good but aggressive, if you're not careful you could create a low spot ( although we are talking about iron not aluminum, I use the scotch brite all day with no problems ) ....

 

[Mike67]

Im pretty good with the 3" roto-loks but am concerned about doing just that. Also thought about usung a pad wrapped in some flat stock.
I just got of the phone with the machine shop and they can clean it, magnaflux, install new bearings and plugs for <$150... sounds like cheap insurance.

 

[khryslerkid]

Never use a wiz wheel on your deck. Laquer thinner, razor blade, and red scotch brite pad (use by hand) is all you need.

This!

Roto locs will remove material (metal). Also the copper coat will clog it up right away.

The lacquer thinner will remove the copper coat just by itself, useing a rag.

Pushrod checking tool from 440 Source. I even used it to watch the valve cycle with double springs. 200-1098

You might want to at least install one head and rocker arm to check the estimated lenth that you will be useing, just to make sure the range of the pushrod checking tool is what you need. They make different lengths.

 

[wagonman]

When I worked as a Line Tech for GM there was a TSB on using 3M rolock discs. Big NoNo especially on aluminum. Plus getting the abrasive in the engine will wipe bearings ect. The flatraters ate many an engine. The dealer started to do oil analysis and if the result was positive you got FIRED. They have their place just not in this instance.

 

[OKDart]

When I worked as a Line Tech for GM there was a TSB on using 3M rolock discs. Big NoNo especially on aluminum. Plus getting the abrasive in the engine will wipe bearings ect. The flatraters ate many an engine. The dealer started to do oil analysis and if the result was positive you got FIRED. They have their place just not in this instance.

This is what I heard as well, about 15 years ago. Wasn't the accepted tool those green rubber bristle discs?

 

[Mike67]

Well I tore it down today to ship off to the machine shop... was pretty pleased with what i found. The crank was perfect, bearings are all new. Will probably need to replace though. A couple had some scratches that you could feel on a couple of them...I'm guessing from some trash.
Was also able to confirm that the pistons are the KB-236...