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dp4b vs 1966 intake

dp4b is a good strip and street performer 0 to 5500 rpm range max comes in when you dump the clutch!

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I just bought one. It may need one heli-coil. Depends if a 1966 afb uses the small or large bolt pattern. One of the larger pattern holes is stripped. $180, shipping will be from $25-$82. Remains to be seen. If Speedee doesn't do call tags any more, it will be the 82.
 
bought it, $220 to the door. 33 Imp read my mind. I'll grind the Edelbrock off and paint it blue to pass it off as original.
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I think you mean Turquoise.
Who installed those studs?:BangHead:
No joke I ran 2" of spacers on top of a torker intake on a mild 383. The more spacer I put on it the faster it went at the track. I should have tried 3"! One of those things you wouldn't think would work on paper but it liked it
 
No joke I ran 2" of spacers on top of a torker intake on a mild 383. The more spacer I put on it the faster it went at the track. I should have tried 3"! One of those things you wouldn't think would work on paper but it liked it
I saw a guy at the strip who made a spacer out of a 2"X 6" literally.
It ran well.
 
I wouldn't grind the Chrysler part number off it, that is useful to stock racers
 
bought it, $220 to the door. 33 Imp read my mind. I'll grind the Edelbrock off and paint it blue to pass it off as original.View attachment 1674576
Take pics of it in your hands first, before you grind on it. (To document what it is/was, just in case you ever decide to sell it.)
And I would leave the part number on it, too.
 
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The intake was fairly clean. About an hour with thinner and a tooth brush. Cleaned the under side, then top, then under, then top. Next I'll scrub it with steel wool and Dawn before paint, but how to remove the carbon? The internet says SeaFoam Deep Creep.
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Those old school intakes are dandy's. THe D4B and LD4B's for the 273's are Golden. LD340's are top notch. The Dp's for the B engines work so well. A friend built a mild 440 with the CH4B and it dynoed at 500 hp and torque. They just work.
 
For anyone interested a guy just tested several intakes in the racing forum at moparts.com
 
Deep Creep didn't do much. Made a runner cleaner with steel wool and zip ties. Laquer thinner with a tooth brush followed by carb cleaner, then the car wash. I washed it with Dawn and steel wool.


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Looks good!
(Decided not to grind the logos off first? Lol.)
And it looks like that passenger rear carb hole might need a helicopter. You're gonna have to move two carb studs, depending on carb used.
(Asshole auto incorrect! Helicoil!)
 
It has a stripped hole, but it's never been port matched or ground on, so I left it. Here is the color in bright sunlight. The stripped hole has a 1/2 inch crack and would be better fixed with it welded shut, drilled, and tapped again.


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