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Firm Feel II Install

Ron H

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I had a FFII box put in my '63 poly and have around 2,000 or so miles on it. Discovered problems (as photo'd) with the left link hitting the torsion bar and center link dragging across the TTI header. I'm of course wondering how this came to be. Have sifted the net to find install instructions and waiting I hope to hear from FF to offer some ideas. Had a shop get it up on their alignment rack to see what's what under weight of the car and don't see any obvious damage but could be so with further checking. If anyone has done this work I'd like to ask to get some info on what's involved with this install, parts required aside from the box for this, etc. I had some notes on this and as usual now I can't find them. Car has a front disk conversion and motor was rebuilt when installing the FF, new motor mounts. Are there other parts maybe necessary or available such as a longer drop pitman and idler?
Thanks

Header clearance 2 pic.jpg Header clearance.jpg
 
I don't have any instructions or words of wisdom per se but looking at your pictures, would it be possible to flip the tie rods to mount from the bottom (nut on top)?
 
The studs are tapered.. so no you can't flip them.
 
Not possible to flip anything, the holes in the center link are tapered so the studs only fit through it in one direction.

RON H did you have this car together with a different steering box and it all fit fine?
 
I had a FFII box put in my '63 poly and have around 2,000 or so miles on it. Discovered problems (as photo'd) with the left link hitting the torsion bar and center link dragging across the TTI header. I'm of course wondering how this came to be. Have sifted the net to find install instructions and waiting I hope to hear from FF to offer some ideas. Had a shop get it up on their alignment rack to see what's what under weight of the car and don't see any obvious damage but could be so with further checking. If anyone has done this work I'd like to ask to get some info on what's involved with this install, parts required aside from the box for this, etc. I had some notes on this and as usual now I can't find them. Car has a front disk conversion and motor was rebuilt when installing the FF, new motor mounts. Are there other parts maybe necessary or available such as a longer drop pitman and idler?
Thanks

View attachment 1028808 View attachment 1028809

Maybe find a pitman and idler arm from a different vehicle that has a little more drop ?? Or will that mess up.the steering geometry? ? And is the other torsion bar clearing? Or maybe your lower control arm bushings are shot ? Causing the torsion bar to sit lower?
 
Not possible to flip anything, the holes in the center link are tapered so the studs only fit through it in one direction.

RON H did you have this car together with a different steering box and it all fit fine?
Owned it for 20 + years before this install, stock box far as I know anyway. Was surprised when determined the motor had been overhauled in early 80's with hardened seats and bored over 30. Being a CA car, owner must have had this done for running unleaded gas. As you may know, headers on a poly is a rare selection with TTI being a source for them. Suckers are tight in the bay. The linkage (some of it) is newer and all new bushings. To accommodate the box (I think) the alignment is considerably off oem as ya probably know and I thought something needing change out to handle this - maybe lower arms referenced in above post? Damn, I had notes on this when looking into the setup a few years back and no can find plus nothing on the net. Hoping to find install instructions that might come with the box. Well, good to know from posts here that nothing can be flipped as was wondering about it from an earlier post. Firm Feel hasn't replied to my inquiry as yet. Thanks.
 
Maybe find a pitman and idler arm from a different vehicle that has a little more drop ?? Or will that mess up.the steering geometry? ? And is the other torsion bar clearing? Or maybe your lower control arm bushings are shot ? Causing the torsion bar to sit lower?
The clearance gremlin is on left side only - the alignment shop I took car to asked me if a diff pitman/idler could be available to lower the linkage and no clue if this is doable or what other model vehicle parts could accommodate this. New bushings installed when box went in and hope the shop would a said the arms needed replacement. Thanks
 
  • Don't know how you would machine another tapered stud but in theory this could solve your problem.

  • 710aq8kNzpL._AC_SX679_.jpg

Click image to open expanded view


American Star 4130 Chromoly Heim Joints (Set of 4)
 
I had a FFII box put in my '63 poly and have around 2,000 or so miles on it. Discovered problems (as photo'd) with the left link hitting the torsion bar and center link dragging across the TTI header. I'm of course wondering how this came to be. Have sifted the net to find install instructions and waiting I hope to hear from FF to offer some ideas. Had a shop get it up on their alignment rack to see what's what under weight of the car and don't see any obvious damage but could be so with further checking. If anyone has done this work I'd like to ask to get some info on what's involved with this install, parts required aside from the box for this, etc. I had some notes on this and as usual now I can't find them. Car has a front disk conversion and motor was rebuilt when installing the FF, new motor mounts. Are there other parts maybe necessary or available such as a longer drop pitman and idler?
Thanks

View attachment 1028808 View attachment 1028809

I would focus on the disk bake conversion. Is it an aftermarket kit or are the spindles are from another car?
 
How are the motor mounts?
 
I was informed by Firm Feel that their box would not go on the 63 K-member. Need 67 or later, for Pitman arm clearance.
 
Get some stainless 1/8 shims and put them under the rubber isolator on the side that’s hitting. It may take 2, but it’ll clear.
 
Thanks for all your replies. SSBC brake conversion, this kit didn't require changing any parts on the linkage. The mounts are new (when motor redone) and look intact. I'm hoping firm feel tech might reply; sent them email with photos Wed. Something I sure haven't heard about is inability to mount the box on pre-67! Shimming sounds interesting as posted above 5.7 hemi, ...have you done this fix or have bud's that did? As I don't have a lift, a shop nearby where I've had some service done on my daily rides is going to get it up on their rack so we can look at this more. Been wondering if the out of OEM alignment necessary for gaining the nice wander less steering with the 15" radials and box could have created this...see...among my lost notes, could swear I jotted something down needing change or modification out to accommodate this.
 
Did this happen only after swapping the box? Was it p/s before? Did you put a new Pittman arm on when you did the box? I put a stage 3 on my 65 awhile back plus a Pittman arm. Straight swap out, apples for apples. The new arm hit the header tube. Was straight across replacement item not the fast ratio longer unit. You can get the "same" part from different manufactures and they will all have differences in basic shape. I would grab some arms from different companies and compare to what you have. Since our stuff is ancient now and manufactures have been bought/sold/consolidated you may not get a lot of variances in arms. Have you tried to see if you can swap the center link side to side? Sometimes there is an offset on them you can utilize. Since its only hitting on the left bar your issue is that area only. Another thing you could do if the arms don't change is pull your old one off and give it some minor adjusting in a press. Years ago I spoke to a guy that worked for King Richard [#43]. He told me they used to just take a torch to the components if they could not get the bump steer to improve. Kind of scary if you think about it but they did races that way before specialized components were made. I would not try the hot wrench deal but you may get somewhere with one of the other avenues.
 
Had to do it on a 470 in an A body. TTI headers should be all that is needed to be said.
 
  • Don't know how you would machine another tapered stud but in theory this could solve your problem.

  • View attachment 1029099
Click image to open expanded view


American Star 4130 Chromoly Heim Joints (Set of 4)
If I'm following you, these could replace the connecting/tie link that's curved upward in my photo? Looking at the oem curvature seems that a lesser angle might make for more clearance; but then almost seems the cross link would elevate...make a 'system' make a change like this means making more along the linkage - well don't know enough about this as rarely messed with steering other than changing parts/installing bushings.
 
Here’s another way to fix it. Heat the pitman arm till red, bend it down a bit. Gotta use wet rags, this will keep the heat from cooking the tie rod joint. Simple 10 minute fix. I’ve done it, works just right. Don’t forget to sight down the pitman arm to the idler arm to make sure they are close to the same angle.
 
Here’s another way to fix it. Heat the pitman arm till red, bend it down a bit. Gotta use wet rags, this will keep the heat from cooking the tie rod joint. Simple 10 minute fix. I’ve done it, works just right. Don’t forget to sight down the pitman arm to the idler arm to make sure they are close to the same angle.
Interesting - yeah, the alignment shop guy commented that a more drop pitman and idler looked like a remedy but then no clue what would do this - available parts or what could be interchangeable from another car. Assuring the sight down as you mention sounds kinda tricky! Thanks
 
It’s actually simple. Just heat the pitman arm and bend it till it tie rod clears. Then use a small level on the center link and bend it till the center link is level. Boom! Drive your ride like it’s stolen!!
 
Calling for some info if anyone can share it: I've tried to contact Firm Feel three times and nada reply. I'm asking for the installation instructions on the stage II unit on my car. I'd a thought they wouldn't be bothered sending on a pdf email, since I had bought it. As I posted earlier, I'm going to be disassembling the steering linkage and likely replacing the torsion bars and since a shop installed the box, and don't have the instructions, want to make sure I don't miss anything as I reassemble the linkage. If anyone might be able to send me a photocopy or email that'd be great. Can pay ya for the trouble...thanks.
 
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