I hope - to much trouble knocking them out and another one back in. I can see why they changed to a wider bushing later - surprised it took them 10 year to figure that out.
First questions on my 727 rebuild journey
- Thread starter AR67GTX
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I hope - to much trouble knocking them out and another one back in. I can see why they changed to a wider bushing later - surprised it took them 10 year to figure that out.
Any bushing (or a rod or main bearing for that matter) will have it's inner diameter shrink when installed. That is why main/rod bearing bore size can be used to adjust bearing clearance.
Doug
Doug
miller
Well-Known Member
They call that an interference (tight) fit, though usually it's only about .001 tight. All that's needed to lock the bushing in. Of course the I.D. of the bushing shrinks the same amount. Key is putting them in straight.
Curious about your sleeve repair...what type seals? Looks to be an easy enough fix! Beats the heck out of replacing the housing.
Curious about your sleeve repair...what type seals? Looks to be an easy enough fix! Beats the heck out of replacing the housing.
Apparently Trans Prep III valve body lubricant is no longer being produced and the few cans around with shipping are selling for more than I care to pay. I wonder if any Teflon fortified gun lubricant like CLP Breakfree will work just as well?
Miller - the Sonnax kit came with rubber O-rings for the new piston. The grooves look like they might be wide enough to take a metal ring but the ends would have to be filed down to match the slightly smaller bore. So, I'll probably rely on Sonnax knowing what they are doing and use their O-rings.
miller
Well-Known Member
Don't really need anything special in the valve body. I always put mine together with good trans fluid, just making sure everything moves freely.
Hear ya on the o-rings. Yes, noted the wide seal grooves. Did they supply you with any 'back-up' rings? Their used on pretty much every a/c hydraulics I've dug into. Simply an o-ring, with two teflon back-up rings, one on each side of the o-ring. Just gives soft support for the rubber seal (from getting cut), and keeps it in place.
Hear ya on the o-rings. Yes, noted the wide seal grooves. Did they supply you with any 'back-up' rings? Their used on pretty much every a/c hydraulics I've dug into. Simply an o-ring, with two teflon back-up rings, one on each side of the o-ring. Just gives soft support for the rubber seal (from getting cut), and keeps it in place.
No - just the o-rings were included. I'll see if the metal rings fit inside the lands for grins.
Miller - the ring groove on the Sonnax piston is actually a bit wider than the Mopar piston so in theory I could file fit metal sealing rings to fit it. Not sure if the extra land width would create an issue in operation - I wouldn't think so. The O-rings are going to move too.
What do most of you use to remove the tail shaft bushing? Since I have a new one I would like to install it.
Dang parts are probably going to be my biggest delay now. The Inland output yoke is not fitting the output shaft properly. I lightly filed the output shaft splines and cleaned them up and the yoke will engage but I would have to drive it in place with a rubber mallet and it sure wouldn't slide in and out freely as the rear suspension cycles. I've replaced a couple new ones in the past on other makes and they always have slid in and out easily. So gonna have to look for a different supplier.
What do most of you use to remove the tail shaft bushing? Since I have a new one I would like to install it.
Dang parts are probably going to be my biggest delay now. The Inland output yoke is not fitting the output shaft properly. I lightly filed the output shaft splines and cleaned them up and the yoke will engage but I would have to drive it in place with a rubber mallet and it sure wouldn't slide in and out freely as the rear suspension cycles. I've replaced a couple new ones in the past on other makes and they always have slid in and out easily. So gonna have to look for a different supplier.
Removing the tail shaft bushing is easy collapse with a screw diver and hammer. I turned a piece of aluminum on the lathe to install. Make sure to make it a little small or it'll be stuck in the bushing once it's installed.
Doug
Doug
OK - thanks Doug. I'll give that a try.
Desperation being the mother of invention or something like that - I spent a few bucks for a variety of PVC bushings to make bushing drivers for the larger bushings my driver set can't handle. So far they have worked pretty good and the PVC doesn't hurt the edge of the bushing any.
Received the rebuilt planetary set today that I bought but after looking at it I think I'm going to return it. It looks like the rebuilder dressed the outer edge of the gear teeth with a little grinder or something. It probably would work OK but I didn't really see anything that looked better than my old one. So - I spent a couple hours quality time with some 400 sandpaper and popcycle sticks and polished the teeth on my original planetary gears to remove the scuffs/ scratches. Looks pretty good after I was done.
This is before
This is after
miller
Well-Known Member
Your pinions look fine, now. Though 'feel' each one for easy rotating, the bushing/bearings they turn on, and any excess play, or wobble. If they feel good, should be okay.
miller
Well-Known Member
No, I would not try using the metal rings, not along with the o-ring. Besides, bore size is different. I'd use the repair kit as it comes, only with parts supplied...either going to work, or not.
Just have to wonder why the wide groove for an o-ring. (Unless your supposed to put 2 of 'em in the groove.) Must be my warped way of thinking!
You might have mis-understood what I said on those 'back-up' nylon, or fiber rings. The grooves that are made to use them, are cut wider on purpose, to fit both the o-ring, and both back-up rings. Those back-up rings do not make contact inside the bore, but simply act as a softer material filler, to make the o-ring itself last longer.
btw...I have also used pvc for various drivers.
miller
Well-Known Member
Yes, the yoke should slip right in. Wonder what country the part was made in? But, past that, doesn't sound good. Maybe a call to the supplier, and ask what the hell? Hmm...sounds like something I'd do.
Do the internal splines look okay? Needs to fit right.
I sent a message to Summit's tech department first but it's going to have to go back. I even ran a fine file down the teeth on the output and wire brushed it good to clean it up. But the inside of the yoke is just too tight and I think the milling for the splines is a bit more triangular than square. It's from a source called Inland.
miller
Well-Known Member
I've gotten a handful of various parts from Summit, seem to be good people.
Also seems there's buckets of outfits out there making parts...some good, some not so much.
Got my slip yoke from a driveshaft company. It looked good, and even fit, but was highly irritated, when after getting the part, called 'em asking what company made it. Was told they were not allowed to give that info! Will use it for what it's worth...if it breaks, will toss it as far as I can.
Add, was also told, if ANYTHING was done to the part, no return. Didn't help my short fuse.
Also seems there's buckets of outfits out there making parts...some good, some not so much.
Got my slip yoke from a driveshaft company. It looked good, and even fit, but was highly irritated, when after getting the part, called 'em asking what company made it. Was told they were not allowed to give that info! Will use it for what it's worth...if it breaks, will toss it as far as I can.
Add, was also told, if ANYTHING was done to the part, no return. Didn't help my short fuse.
If it doesn't fit send it back. I just replaced a half shaft on the front of my awd Magnum. After going to 4 parts supliers to get "new" (read that Chinese) axle. None had splines that would come close to sliding into the hub bearing. I went to an axle rebuilder. They had a rebuilt using original core. It slid right in. If you can't copy correcrly, don't bother making it.
Doug
Doug
'AR67' the mother of invention is thinking up stuff to use for whatever purpose! Now all we have to wait for is a successful launch of some shifting? Never thought of using PVC, your good,my bad!
Still wondering why a new yoke??? What is wrong with what you had in the car before? PVC that goes in the things to remember column.
miller
Well-Known Member
Might be going from a SB driveshaft to a BB?
Almost funny. No, can't remember the driveshaft outfit (on line), but of the 4, or more slip yokes they had for Mopars, all were listed Spicer, except the one I needed. No namer.
Almost funny. No, can't remember the driveshaft outfit (on line), but of the 4, or more slip yokes they had for Mopars, all were listed Spicer, except the one I needed. No namer.
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