Headgasket or?

[ChryslerKid]

Bb 400 motor.
Driven occasionally since i brought her back from washington a year ago. First time diving into this one. Probably the first time this timing cover has been off since 1972. Changed the oil less than 1000 miles ago. Any other thoughts before i pull these heads?

 

[DeltaV]

Are the timing marks still aligned?

Anyway, install a double roller timing chain and gears during whatever rebuild you are planning. Might as well add a windage tray if it doesn't already have one.

Did you check cylinder pressures and leak down?

 

[ChryslerKid]

Install a double roller timing chain and gears during whatever rebuild you are planning. Might as well add a windage tray if it doesn't already have one.

Did you check cylinder pressures and leak down?

Compression check and leak down was my next step. Ive got a couple projects 95% of the way done. Just trying to keep the main bearings intact while i start her up every once in a while until i can pull the motor. Had the power steering tensioner bolt snap in the block while i was replacing a belt. I had to drill and tap so i decided i might as well replace the water pump while the housing was off.. then i figured i might as well do the timing case gasket and crank seal while it was open.. you know how it goes.

 

[R413]

It has water in there from someplace. Head gaskets rarely fail on stock BB mopars. Who knows what it’s been through and who worked on it. Freeze crack in that one? Gonna have to get into it and check it out. Can’t drive it like that.

 

[Red63440]

Just for peace of mind I would pull them, like you said, one thing just leads to another.

 

[ChryslerKid]

It has water in there from someplace. Head gaskets rarely fail on stock BB mopars. Who knows what it’s been through and who worked on it. Freeze crack in that one? Gonna have to get into it and check it out. Can’t drive it like that.

If im not mistaken bb mopars dont have water jackets in the intake and no oil to water contact in the timing case or water pump housing area so head gasket or freeze crack would be the two logical options eh? How would i tell the difference with a compression and leakdown test?

 

[R413]

You wouldn’t, a compression and leak down show you the ring & valve sealing. Potentially nothing to do with water in the oil. Then take heads off, inspect head gaskets, look for cracks, then take heads to machine shop for checkout. Look at the block in the lifter valley for cracks. Where the pushrods are.

What do the oil look like when you bought it? How long to look like this? Are any of the plugs real clean with no carbon? That’s what happens with water in a cylinder. You won’t necessarily have that happening though.

 

[Runcharger]

Did it have antifreeze in it?
If you can't get to it right away, dump the coolant out, then drain the oil, put in new oil, start it for a few seconds and shut it off, then dump the oil again. Then let it sit until you can get to it. I'm betting something is cracked.

 

[ChryslerKid]

Did it have antifreeze in it?
If you can't get to it right away, dump the coolant out, then drain the oil, put in new oil, start it for a few seconds and shut it off, then dump the oil again. Then let it sit until you can get to it. I'm betting something is cracked.

Oil looked fine when i drained it. This is the first time ive seen milk. Just a film in the front of the oil pan. Its had antifreeze in it since ive owned it but she is 50 years old now who knows her history.

 

[Slap Stick]

You said you started it occasionally. Was it allowed to come up to full temp and for how long? Does it have a thermostat and what temp?
This could be condensation that hasn't burned off.

 

[ChryslerKid]

You said you started it occasionally. Was it allowed to come up to full temp and for how long? Does it have a thermostat and what temp?
This could be condensation that hasn't burned off.

That was my first thought. I pulled the intake a year ago didnt see any cracks or water. Ive definately let it get up to temp but last week i pulled valve covers and one side had three significant splits where the bolts seat and a broken off bolt i had to take care of. Maybe wishful thinking ill probably pull the heads for good measure anyhow.

 

[ruffcut]

I agree with @Slap Stick as it may be condensation for not getting up to temp at startup. Especially if no water in the oil. ruffcut

 

[R413]

That a lot of white for just condensation, but Anything is possible. He says Sacramento, it’s pretty dry there.

@ChryslerKid have you pressure tested the cooling system? This will tell you if it loses pressure or coolant.

Do you ever drive this car and get the oil hot? Idling in the driveway doesn’t do it.

 

[Runcharger]

So the oil isn't all a slurry? It's just the white foam sitting on top of the oil and fairly thin?

 

[ChryslerKid]

So the oil isn't all a slurry? It's just the white foam sitting on top of the oil and fairly thin?

Looks worse than it is just a thin film in the front of the pan. Also its been raining hard for the last couple months.

 

[Runcharger]

Oh good. In that case I don't think it is engine coolant. I would do your work, change the oil and I bet it's okay.

 

[F4R/T]

I would also just pressure test the cooling system to be on the safe side...If you’re not adding water you could have condensation build up from short run periods or PCV issues... just my .02

 

[ChryslerKid]

I would also just pressure test the cooling system to be on the safe side...If you’re not adding water you could have condensation build up from short run periods or PCV issues... just my .02

Thank you guys i appreciate the input. Speaking of pcv the old owner had it unplugged. I had to throw on some cheap edlebrock valve covers while i get the old ones brazed. Its also got an aftermarket air cleaner with no snorkel or breather insert. Any downside to running a pcv valve on both sides with a T into the carb?

 

[ruffcut]

I can't give any input as far as running 2 pcv valves, but now seeing as the old owner had the pcv unplugged and you apparently have it non functional as well, and just warming the engine for short periods, I think you have discovered the answer as to where the moisture is coming from. Just my 2 cents. ruffcut

 

[1967coronet]

Thank you guys i appreciate the input. Speaking of pcv the old owner had it unplugged. I had to throw on some cheap edlebrock valve covers while i get the old ones brazed. Its also got an aftermarket air cleaner with no snorkel or breather insert. Any downside to running a pcv valve on both sides with a T into the carb?

dont use dual pcv valves.
PVC hooked to vacuum pulls crank case pressure out, breather in opposite valve cover let's air in to crank case.