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Installed Dash, this is what I have, 66 Coronet

SassyPants

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Location
Kansas City, Mo
Hi Folks, With advice from many of you, I got the dash in today. That is the good news. I put in a small ish battery and there is what I see. The Top Motor for the Convert top works. The reconditioned Clock Works. The Cigar Lighter works.

When I turned the switch to the "ON" position and pulled out the light switch, the High Beam light came on. Clicked the High Beam switch on the floor board, the High Beam light went out. The Oil Press light came on. The Wiper motor works. The Radio works. What does not work??

I see No background lights on the Dash. The heater motor does not work with Key to On position.

The steering wheel is not yet installed nor is the front clip.

Got any ideas on the Instrument Lights in the Dash or the Heater Motor?

Best to you all, B.

IMG_4261.JPG
 
Oh, when I pulled out the light switch, I turned it full to the right hoping I would see dash lights. Nothing. Thought that might be important.
 
Hi Folks, With advice from many of you, I got the dash in today. That is the good news. I put in a small ish battery and there is what I see. The Top Motor for the Convert top works. The reconditioned Clock Works. The Cigar Lighter works.

When I turned the switch to the "ON" position and pulled out the light switch, the High Beam light came on. Clicked the High Beam switch on the floor board, the High Beam light went out. The Oil Press light came on. The Wiper motor works. The Radio works. What does not work??

I see No background lights on the Dash. The heater motor does not work with Key to On position.

The steering wheel is not yet installed nor is the front clip.

Got any ideas on the Instrument Lights in the Dash or the Heater Motor?

Best to you all, B.

View attachment 938106
Make sure you put the connection on the light switch right. I missed one tab once and they would not turn on. I looked a little closer and figured out what I did wrong then corrected it. Good luck with it
 
The dash sure looks great. Is the light switch new? If not did you test the rheostat? That circuit is and always been touchy on 66-67 B bodies.
 
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Agreed. with the shop lights out, keep turning the switch slowly and gently to see if it will make connection.
 
Thanks Guys, how do I test the Blower Motor on the Heater? No A/C. Thanks in advance, B.
 
Hi Guys, Well, I put the battery back in, dark enough to not be able to see much. Pulled out the Lights Nob, turned the key switch to ON, and no instrument lights. I tried turning it slowly, medium ly, and fast ly. No lights in the dash. Sooo, perhaps a new light switch in the life of Sassy Pants? If so No biggy. I did work on that light switch to clean it up and such, perhaps I messed it up?? Anyway Jerry, I will give the New Light Switch a try, if I can find it. Thanks again to you all. Best,

B.
 
Thanks Guys, how do I test the Blower Motor on the Heater? No A/C. Thanks in advance, B.
I the blower doesn't run on any speed check for power through the fuse. You also have a blower resistor on the side of the heater box. I don't remember but I think it controls low and medium speed but if it's bad I'm not sure what is going to work. You can also test to see if your switch is good or if power is getting to it.
 
inst lmps might be their own fuse as well
 
Most times the dash lamps ground through the frame. Fresh paint can cause issues.
 
Did you replace the dash light sockets? I just replaced my dash after painting and installed new dash light sockets, none of the repop sockets worked. I reinstalled all the original sockets and they worked.
 
Thank you all for your replies. I have more things to try.

On the issue of the Light Sockets, they are original equipment. Thank you again Jerry. I put a new bulb in Each one of the sockets and tested them individually before putting them in the Dash. So, I am confident I have good sockets and bulbs. As I was talking to my wife last night, this is her High School Ride, she "thinks" she remembers there not being Dash lights when she drove it towards end of high school. That said, it has been a few years since the early 80s. :).

Before I put the dash in, I replaced all of the fuses, but that does not mean they are all still good, so I will give that a check as well.

On the issue of the Heater, when I had it out, I took it all apart and cleaned the motor, cage, housing and all of the electrical connectors. As well, I lubed the motor while I had it out. I then tested the motor by putting positive to the resister and ground to the back of the motor. It worked fine out of the car. I wonder how the Blower Motor is grounded while in the car, anyone know that?? Perhaps it is a Ground Issue? I will go down and put the battery back in, key on, and power to the motor via the switch on the dash. Will use a check light to the coupling that hooks into resister to see if it is getting power. The motor should work if I apply positive to the resister and ground to a good ground source shouldn't it??

You guys have helped a lot, I want you all to know how much I appreciate your being willing to take your time for guidance. B.
 
Thank you 440, now we have the dog walked on this beautiful day here in the KC area. So, back to problems to solve. By the way, did I mention that I hate Electrical issues. My confidence level is not high on those types of problems. My brother usually solves my elec problems quickly giving me that, You Brother, are a Dummy type of look. But, we are observing Social Distancing these days.

So, what I will do is see if I have power to the resister on the heater box by unhooking it and testing the connector that goes back to the Dash Controls. Battery in, key to On, Blower switch to Low/Med and then Hi, Test Light while on my back on the floor. If there is power there, will pull out the resister and test it. I think I can figure out how to test it on the bench without burning the house down :). Then if that is good, will try to figure out how this thing is Grounded to be certain it has a proper ground. As was said above, New Paint can play havoc with Grounding issues. So, I will try to figure that out. Well, off to see what mischief I can cause. I will keep you up to date on the Adventures of SP. Best, B.
 
Thank you 440, now we have the dog walked on this beautiful day here in the KC area. So, back to problems to solve. By the way, did I mention that I hate Electrical issues. My confidence level is not high on those types of problems. My brother usually solves my elec problems quickly giving me that, You Brother, are a Dummy type of look. But, we are observing Social Distancing these days.

So, what I will do is see if I have power to the resister on the heater box by unhooking it and testing the connector that goes back to the Dash Controls. Battery in, key to On, Blower switch to Low/Med and then Hi, Test Light while on my back on the floor. If there is power there, will pull out the resister and test it. I think I can figure out how to test it on the bench without burning the house down :). Then if that is good, will try to figure out how this thing is Grounded to be certain it has a proper ground. As was said above, New Paint can play havoc with Grounding issues. So, I will try to figure that out. Well, off to see what mischief I can cause. I will keep you up to date on the Adventures of SP. Best, B.
You can check the coils on the front of the heater box by just looking at them. Don’t know what year, but I. Think it was Valient that had a switch that was the same as our 66-7 b bodies. Probably about a 1970. I bought one for our first Charger.
 
This probably isn't the problem. Did you put the grounding strip that goes in on top of cluster?
 
Hmmmm, Not certain that I know what that is?? Got lights to the Oil and High Beam, radio works, the Amp Meter goes negative when I turn the key to the On Position. What does the Grounding strip look like? I am pretty confident that I put it back together as it came apart, but One never knows?
 
It's a strip of steel 12" long 1" to 1.25" wide with a small step in it. It touches the the cluster casting and the dash frame. The 3 screws that go in the top of cluster hold it in place. I put I think upside down I think and it didn't ground cluster.
 
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