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Max Wedge cutouts?

fmahannah

1963 Dodge Polara Max Wedge Tribute
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Sep 25, 2014
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Location
Dahlonega, North Georgia
Does anyone make an electric cutout that will fir a TTI 3 inch max wedge exhaust system? The blockoff plate is 4 bolts and all the cutouts I see are 3 bolts?

Thanks
Forrest
 
I'm sure no one makes an electric cutout for a four bolt flange. I don't think anybody has used a four bolt header flange since Appliance Headers, in the seventies (except for me, lol).
What you could do is copy the max four bolt block off plate, with a three inch hole in it, weld a stub piece of 3" tubing and a 3 bolt ring to that, and then mount your electric cutout. The three bolt ring can be found easily, you will have to make, or have made, the four bolt ring. That way you can save the stock four bolt cap.
 
That’s a great idea that I’m going to borrow! Thanks!! Happy Thanksgiving!!!
 
FMAHANNAH/Early Auto,
There is another way to do it if you have a way to cut flanges. If not but if you have patterns of both, I may be able to help out. Tom
 
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The c/o's on my '63 are going to need some fab work, as the frame ties are limiting the out tube clearance. I'm gonna contact TTI over the winter, and try to buy a pair of their flanges. I'm planning on electric cutouts, so I'll probably flange the outlet, to match what's needed ? Open to suggestions on this also ???
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Wow, that is awesome BUT the frame stiffeners are really tight to the outlets aren't they? I'd sure think the only way to handle this one would be to do as another suggested and add an extension to the outlet. But, the bend is going to be pretty sharp. Darn. It'll be kind of tough no matter how you do it.

Without the frame stiffeners, I'd use a four bolt flange large enough and thick enough (3/8") you could then countersink three holes in it and use flat, socket head cap screws that line up with the cutouts you want. You bolt it to the three bolt flange and then tack the heads of the flat heads to the four bolt flange. then, grind the head flat to the surface of the flange so a gasket seals between both flanges.

It'll be thick enough at 3/8" so you won't weaken it.


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The c/o's on my '63 are going to need some fab work, as the frame ties are limiting the out tube clearance. I'm gonna contact TTI over the winter, and try to buy a pair of their flanges. I'm planning on electric cutouts, so I'll probably flange the outlet, to match what's needed ? Open to suggestions on this also ???
View attachment 1378943
If you don't mind my asking did your TTI tailpipes clear your rear shocks? I noticed my shocks were beat up pretty bad by previous owner and after replacing the mufflers and the shocks and setting the car back on it's wheels the tailpipes are actually sitting on the new shocks and I am not sure rotating the tailpipes will give the clearance needed? Might have to take a hammer to the tailpipes to make it work
 
I'm out in the garage now, looks like they have plenty of clearance. I can get better pics when I raise car up if you need them.
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I'm out in the garage now, looks like they have plenty of clearance. I can get better pics when I raise car up if you need them.
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Thanks. Obviously there is something wrong with the previous TTI installation. If I rotate the tailpipes for clearance then the tips won't point down. If I move the tailpipes to the rear they will hit the pan below the bumper. This car sits lower in the rear than in the front and I wonder if rear springs are the issue?

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If you don't mind my asking did your TTI tailpipes clear your rear shocks? I noticed my shocks were beat up pretty bad by previous owner and after replacing the mufflers and the shocks and setting the car back on it's wheels the tailpipes are actually sitting on the new shocks and I am not sure rotating the tailpipes will give the clearance needed? Might have to take a hammer to the tailpipes to make it work

Thanks. Obviously there is something wrong with the previous TTI installation. If I rotate the tailpipes for clearance then the tips won't point down. If I move the tailpipes to the rear they will hit the pan below the bumper. This car sits lower in the rear than in the front and I wonder if rear springs are the issue?

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Great Car !!! I'm running new springs, with a 1" lift, so that could definitely be your issue ???
 
Not to steal VanDan's thunder but I had Eaton Detroit Spring make me a set with a 1" lift for my Barracuda. They are perfect.
 
Just had a thought .... are the left and right tailpipes bent differently or labeled in some way on the TTI exhaust? I wonder if previous owner got them mixed up if so?
 
It looks like the tailpipe needs to move towards the rear of the car to gain clearance, but if I do that the outlets will be hitting the panel under the rear bumper for sure.
Any ideas appreciated. Might also be able to rotate the tailpipes to gain clearance but then exhaust tips won't point straight down.

Here is the passenger side showing the rear shock condition the way the previous owner was driving it. Must have sounded awful when hitting bumps.

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And here is the drivers side with a new shock installed. Exhaust tailipe is actually sitting on shock when car is on the ground.

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ESPO, If I remember correct. A few years ago, but nicely done, and fair priced.
I am in contact with ESPO but they are not sure what number of leafs etc would be correct for a max wedge tribute car? I looked at mine which PO said were super stock and there are what looks like 6 leaves on drivers side and possibly 8 on the pass side? Seems strange to me? If you have any idea what you bought for yours it would be appreciated. not sure if Polara would be different. Looking for an extra inch of lift. Thanks
 
I am in contact with ESPO but they are not sure what number of leafs etc would be correct for a max wedge tribute car? I looked at mine which PO said were super stock and there are what looks like 6 leaves on drivers side and possibly 8 on the pass side? Seems strange to me? If you have any idea what you bought for yours it would be appreciated. not sure if Polara would be different. Looking for an extra inch of lift. Thanks
That sounds exactly like typical super stock springs.
The later track pack and super track pack cars had passenger side biased springs from the factory.
If you can determine the part number of the springs you have (usually stamped on the bottom, near the axle,) you can get the next higher weight rating ss springs. That will lift the rear.
 
Does anyone happen to know who makes these cutouts?

I have a 1962 Savoy I'm getting ready to get on the road for this summer. Just had the floor replaces and sub frame connectors (US Tool) put in at the same time. After seeing this thread I was bummed that I would not be able to use my factory exhaust that's waiting to go on the car, because of how the frame connector rails would be in the way of the exhaust. Esp. after seeing VanDans photo above. His are close and the front of his connectors are installed wide, mine are installed closer together inline with the front rails.
Fast forward to this morning and I see this photo of a this max wedge car and how low the center/middle of the exhaust sits. I'd be OK with installing this way.

I also see that this person s using square flange mounted electric cutouts. Anyone know the make?

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Another angle that shows how low the exhaust can be mounted

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