• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Mopar Performance camshaft help

Then you have everything you need to determine 0.050" if you want.

I assume you mean when it returns and I get it installed with a degree wheel on it, as I can't seem to get there with the current info, lol.
 
Do you want overlap at 0.050"? If so, you have what you need.
 
Example for .050

241+241= 482
482/4=120.5
120.5-112=8.5
8.5x2=17
17 degrees should be the overlap at .050.
 
A 400 B engine with the parts you listed seems to me to be one of the best inherent engines as far as geometry goes for adding boost.
Adding cubic inches is, as you said, not important because it's going to behave like a much larger displacement engine, and with the big bore and short stroke, along with forced induction, well it's going to be quite the mill.
There are turbo specific grinds, but that cam should suit you well, and with a turbo engine, if you want more power, add more boost! :D
 
Example for .050

241+241= 482
482/4=120.5
120.5-112=8.5
8.5x2=17
17 degrees should be the overlap at .050.


Holy crap.. that is very helpful! I very much appreciate it, thank you. It has a little more than I thought, perhaps the big lash will help. I will do some checking to see if that is too much for my application. Again, thank you :)
 
A 400 B engine with the parts you listed seems to me to be one of the best inherent engines as far as geometry goes for adding boost.
Adding cubic inches is, as you said, not important because it's going to behave like a much larger displacement engine, and with the big bore and short stroke, along with forced induction, well it's going to be quite the mill.
There are turbo specific grinds, but that cam should suit you well, and with a turbo engine, if you want more power, add more boost! :D

I had the same thoughts with the bore/stroke, and my two friends running turbo cars are very interested to see how it reacts, as am I. I wish I had the option of just cranking the boost up, but the block will likely tell me when it's had enough. Two local guys have 400 based strokers that have made 1,000 HP or a little more on spray, and have (yet) to hurt a block, both fairly heavy E body cars, low 1.3 60' cars, both int the 8's. It is reputed that turbos are significantly easier on parts than nitrous, but the only way I am going to find that out is to crack something.
 
Well, after some research of proven turbo cam designs, 17 degrees of overlap seems like a bit much. The ones I found that I know work well are in the 2 to 2.5 degree range, quite a bit off my old 528, so I guess it stays on the shelf.

Crower has a .511 solid with a wide 112 degree LSA, that works out to 2 degrees of overlap. I think I will try this one first.

Thanks to all that helped me
 
Well, after some research of proven turbo cam designs, 17 degrees of overlap seems like a bit much. The ones I found that I know work well are in the 2 to 2.5 degree range, quite a bit off my old 528, so I guess it stays on the shelf.

Crower has a .511 solid with a wide 112 degree LSA, that works out to 2 degrees of overlap. I think I will try this one first.

Thanks to all that helped me
Dwayne Porter is a name that comes up often, along with Racer Brown and Hughes.
Maybe run this by them since you have decided to buy something?
Forced induction engines, especially turbos, that take a bit of time to build boost, and depend on exhaust gases to do so, unlike a belt driven supercharger or centrifugal blower, could definitely benefit from a turbo specific cam profile.
Then again, like I said before and has been my experience, more boost = more power.
The thing about having a cam speced out for turbo applications would mean a more efficient use of power, and may also give a broader power curve.
 
Dwayne is just upstate from me, we spoke years ago, and I still have a set of his heads stashed ;) I tried calling him this weekend to see if he was silly enough to pick up the phone.. he wasn't :)

I do the two job thing, and even getting off a phone call during the week is an ordeal. I will try to pursue a few more leads before I pick one. One of my turbo buddies just told me "You really aren't after much power, it will be fine". Still hard to wrap my head around that, lol.
 
Uh .050 is useful mostly for setting timing
for comparing cams it can get you way off
depending on the "intensity" the difference between .004 or .006 and .050
which can be different on the intake and exhaust lobe
and different on the opening and closing ramps
you can contact dart19666 at Crower or some of the above
If thinking of a solid or roller contact Mike Jones on your short list
 
Uh .050 is useful mostly for setting timing
for comparing cams it can get you way off
depending on the "intensity" the difference between .004 or .006 and .050
which can be different on the intake and exhaust lobe
and different on the opening and closing ramps
you can contact dart19666 at Crower or some of the above
If thinking of a solid or roller contact Mike Jones on your short list


This turd is not in the solid roller range by a long shot, lol. I hurried home and tried to catch Bullet cams during business hours and just missed them. I will talk to a few before I order anything, but some of the cams I see recommended are based on really old turbo information, things have changed a bit.
 
Well, after some research of proven turbo cam designs, 17 degrees of overlap seems like a bit much. The ones I found that I know work well are in the 2 to 2.5 degree range, quite a bit off my old 528, so I guess it stays on the shelf.

Crower has a .511 solid with a wide 112 degree LSA, that works out to 2 degrees of overlap. I think I will try this one first.

Thanks to all that helped me
I guess my turbo cam fails your overlap qualification

CFB0D2BC-B8F4-4673-A4A6-E7A1CB63A97B.jpeg
 
I guess my turbo cam fails your overlap qualification

View attachment 875878


Well, it seems a bit outside of the parameters I've seen work well even above my power level. I'm sure it was carefully chosen for your combo and will work well. From what I've read by some well respected builders, the extra overlap and tighter LSA will move your powerband up. Some claim more overlap will help it spool quicker too.
 
I guess my turbo cam fails your overlap qualification

View attachment 875878

Have you run this combo? I am actually curious, not being a dick.. I ask because a friend has a Gen 3 392 hemi with a little smaller cam, I have his cam card, and his does land at 2 degrees ovelap, just like the very well respected Brian Tooley stage 2 turbo cam. My friends car makes 1,300 HP, and I saw him run an 8.1 at 178 this year, so I guess it works.
 
Have you run this combo? I am actually curious, not being a dick.. I ask because a friend has a Gen 3 392 hemi with a little smaller cam, I have his cam card, and his does land at 2 degrees ovelap, just like the very well respected Brian Tooley stage 2 turbo cam. My friends car makes 1,300 HP, and I saw him run an 8.1 at 178 this year, so I guess it works.
I have not yet run it. We still have to wire the EFI. I think somehow you may have gotten fixated on one parameter of a complex puzzle. These engines are still operating on a pressure differential, just a different version of it than an NA engine. Scavenging isn’t such a concern as you have manifold pressure to fill a cylinder so overlap is less critical. Once opening and closing points are then determined, overlap and lsa are merely fallouts of the numbers. You can manipulate those points to affect turbo spool or in my case crutch the rather smallish 75mm turbines hence the exhaust duration. I’m also running non-intercooled so power will be fuel limited. We’ve made 1635Hp from a Procharged SBF and have gone 8.0@170 with a Y2K on a yates headed 361sbf so I have some experience with forced induction combos.
 
The 528 cam will have similar valve overlap timing as the TBR Stage II cams
 
The 528 cam will have similar valve overlap timing as the TBR Stage II cams

Hmm, seemed like a good bit more, 2 vs. 17, I am likely missing something. The only reason I am probably over fixating on the overlap is the only two guys I know personally with any experience have very low overlap cams and made it seem pretty important, and the other combos I have seen run are LS platforms, and seem to run small overlaps.

That said.. I spent a good half hour on the phone with Bullet cams today, and the tech was really thorough, to the point he needed to know how big my intake valve was and how many pounds of boost so he could calculate how much extra spring pressure to recommend. :)

I ended up with 2 choices in flat tappet solids, and picked the smaller of the two. It's the same basic blank, but the ramps are ground off the Ford lifter diameter, which slows things down and makes it easier on the valve train. Even so, the tech said I am running on the high end of spring rates for a flat tappet.

Long story short, I was looking for a single digit overlap cam, looks like I will be getting one with about 20 lol.
 
Put in the cam, turn up the boost, hang on!
Lol.
Good luck!
I know how much fun my 89 Conquest TSi was, with the original tiny 13a turbo, turned up from 10.5 to 17 pounds of boost! I had a 16g turbo for it, and some other stuff, that would have taken me to the next level, but I sold all of that along with the car. If I had the opportunity, I would do what my best friend is doing. He bought a JDM used 2JZ (in Japan, engines have to be pulled around 50k miles, and they are sold dirt cheap). He has a good size single turbo on it, a Turbo 400 automatic transmission, and it's going to put out about 500 some horsepower, without losing any longevity at that power level!
All in a red Conquest TSi.
:bananadance: They take curves like they're on rails!
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top