Orig69
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Could you feel a performance improvement from the jet change on the SD carb?
My new stock stroke 400 build
- Thread starter qkcuda
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Honestly no. I do have to say I was worried it would be too rich after adjusting it to optimize the dyno run on open headers. I switched to the leanest rods and it drives really well. On the track it stalled on the line with the secondary air door set at one turn like on the dyno. I tightened it another turn and it was better but still had a noticeable bog. What can I expect from 2.94 gears and a low stall converter?
Orig69
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You can get close to the ideal adjustment of the secondary air valve by using your finger to quickly poke it open when it swings back closed it should almost bounce.
In anticipation of the trip to Carlisle, I decided I should replace my roadkill fuel pump toggle switch with a proper one connected to switched power with a relay. I am not in love with electrical work, so I read the instructions several times and laid it out before I started. I got the under hood portion finished and it turned out pretty tidy. I will do the under dash part another day, as it involves laying on my back and looking up, which will likely trigger my vertigo 
I got the inside wiring done this morning, happy to report that it works, and no vertigo. It may not seem like much of an accomplishment to most, but wiring is my kryptonite. I also ordered a spare fuel pump on Amazon, just in case.
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as it involves laying on my back and looking up, which will likely trigger my vertigo
my progressive lenses make it much worse, it may even be the cause........ I wear a good set of readers under the car
I take the glasses right off when working under the dash
Curiousyellow71
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From what I remember which could be off...as memories go, there once was a article in Chrysler Power about the original dyno testing of the 440 magnum. The thing that I "remember" was chrysler using ratings of peak torque and peak hp that were from different dyno runs. I think they had the manifolds w nothing driven off the front pulley.
I have looked for the article and tried to come up w a name of the dyno operator... But no luck..Lol...so the above could be BS, as memories go.
But, at the time, I just thought it a bit unusual to do 2 different tests for peak torque and hp. They tuned it for peak torque, recorded it..then tuned for peak hp.. Guessing 383, 400 were dynoed similiar.
I have looked for the article and tried to come up w a name of the dyno operator... But no luck..Lol...so the above could be BS, as memories go.
But, at the time, I just thought it a bit unusual to do 2 different tests for peak torque and hp. They tuned it for peak torque, recorded it..then tuned for peak hp.. Guessing 383, 400 were dynoed similiar.
I did a nut and bolt check on the car today. I found a couple of loose exhaust hangers and a loose fan belt. I noticed a loose trunk hinge bolt at the last car show, but when I went to tighten it the inside nut was seized and everything just spun. I cobbled up a tapered shim out of a washer and pounded it in with a drift punch. Problem solved, I think.
Run out of gorilla tape?
I'll bring some with
I painted the trunk hinge repair and loaded the trunk for the trip. Just need to pack my suitcase.
I'm with you - stuff fills up fast!
The car ran great down to Carlisle. On the way back Sunday morning I found this pool of trans fluid under the car. I topped it up and rechecked it after running a while and it was fine. I have now determined that it was the selector shaft seal that was leaking since I have converter drainback issues and the car was parked on an incline nose down. I just checked in the garage and no leaks at all.
I bought this Mancini aluminium water pump housing and high flow pump combo in Carlisle to replace the 73 housing I used on the dyno.
I noticed some rattles before I left and I tightened some of the exhaust hangers. It was better but still rattling from time to time. I looked closer tonight and no wonder. Look how close the front of the mufflers are to the floor. One even looks like it rubbed against the driveshaft. I have decided that when I swap in the new engine I will remove these long 23 inch mufflers and replace with Dynomax Super Turbos that are 20 inch cases. Should be a win/win with better flow and sound as well as more clearance.
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Repro Hemi mufflers are smashed in on opposite corners to clear driveshaft and springs on B-bodies.
Yes 17747 is what I am looking at. I still have the factory 2 inch tailpipes, so I will be using a 2 1/4 to 2 inch reducer, which will also make up for the shorter length of the muffler.
The Dynomax mufflers are about 2 inches narrower than the ones on the car, which should help with clearance as well. Who knows, maybe now I will be able to find room for that rear sway bar!
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