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New Member Pictures of my Car and project

Jeffj

Well-Known Member
Local time
3:14 AM
Joined
Apr 15, 2014
Messages
59
Reaction score
20
Location
chilliwack
Here are some pictures of my stuff in it's current state..............and I have some questions regarding engine options and the members opinions:
There is the original 383 freshened, 060 over, std steel crank with cast pistons, mild cam but have 1.65 isky rockers to bring it to .550 lift, 915 or 452 open heads, or 440 source heads that I've CNC'ed and then opened up to Max Wedge port size.
I have a 400 block with a 440 source 512 stroker kit at the machine shop right now.
I have 2 fresh built dual cable shift 727's with slip yoke out puts.
I have a new in boxes pair of gen 2 mopar performance hemi heads and cross ram, 4.5 pistons and 7.1 rods for a 541 cuin combo along with valve gear, covers alum water pump ignition and so on but no crank nor block as yet. To me this is "best" but a cast iron block is too heavy and an aluminum one is too costly and I worry about cold to hot clearances and run ability.
So I bought a 30,000 km 5.7 hemi and a fresh 518 (46RH) overdrive with lockup. Then I got a deal on a "high mileage" 6.1 SRT 8 complete out of a Jeep that I couldn't turn down as a bit of a future project. I paid $750 for the 5.7 and $800 for the 6.1......good deals???
My questions:
#1 I do not want to cut the car up, it is way too nice to do that to it so for the 518..the TTI site shows biscuit mounts for the 66 up k member and spool mounts for the 65 down k member. The 65 k member has the engine 1 1/2 inches forward of the 66? so the trans tail shaft should have more clearance?
#2 TTI shows the crank c/l an inch higher with the 65 down mounts so if I used the 66 up biscuit mount combo I could drop both the engine and trans down a bit to improve tunnel clearance while maintaining driveline angles?
#3 If I used a 9" ford rear with it's lower pinion position I could gain back drive line position/angles with a slightly lower tail shaft position could I not?
Thanks for any help or comments.
Jeff J

Jeff J
 

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damn dude KEEP it simple !!

i would use the 400 stroker with a 8 3/4 and 727 youll be just fine . the 9 you dont need it belongs in a ford . keep it mopar !!
get the poly mounts you dont have to modify anything . keep to the stock or up graded stock style parts youll be just fine .

hang with the mopar guys here listen to them damn slow down!!
 
I have a parts car with a poly in it; what is different to use those mounts vs the 383 mounts that were in this car?
Jeff J
 
welcome to FBBO

good luck with what ever it is,
you end up deciding on
 
Welcome to FBBO Jeff. That is a really clean looking '65. I would keep it all Mopar if you can, but that's just my opinion. Hope to see her down here south of the border when she's finished.
 
Here are some earlier pictures from when I brought it home and then during paint and body. Hi back to all of you. 3 other folks from BC even! Is that '66 post car one that was bought from "John" in Langley? Let me know if you get in a selling mood.
Jeff J
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Welcome from PA! Nice car!
 
That's one sweet car! Welcome to the site! Keep us posted on the progress!
 
i would use the 400 stroker with a 8 3/4 and 727 youll be just fine

X2 on that! The other options are ok imo, but keep it simple. The 400 stroked will be fantastic. I've got one in the shop right now getting started!

Good luck and welcome!
 
Thanks very much! I needed some measurements to set up for mounts for a new hemi option with the 65 K member but nobody has or has done this apparently. All the combos seem to be for this car with a 66 up K member which I believe locates the engine 1 and 58ths inches rearward which is very different. I got some measurements which were very helpful but still not quite enough to move forward so I put the 383 short block in to take my own measurements to be certain where the crank centre line is in the factory stock position.
In a 1965 Satellite it is 31.75 inches frame rail to frame rail.
Crank centre line is 17 and 11 16ths from the driver side frame rail
Crank centre line is 14 and 1 16th from the passenger side frame rail
Crank centre line is 5 and 1 quarter from the top of the K member

The crank above K member for a 66 up is listed as 6 and one quarter while the 65 down is listed as 5 and one quarter. This is a huge difference if the mounting pads are at the same height re tunnel clearances and drive line angles.
I am not trying to invent the wheel but want to locate the engine properly in the chassis and have correct drive line angles. I have spoken to Schumacher and they indicate that they may have mounts for correct motor position in 3 months or so.
Just thought Id update what I have found with my car.
Also as an update, the machine shop has begun work on my 400 block for the stroker setup. I bought a half inch bottom end girdle and milled the pan rail side down to one quarter to avoid shims between it and the main stud nuts and also to minimize clearance issues to the k member. They were setting up to line hone it today and do the boring and honing for the 4.375 bore piston combo. I have max wedge ported 440 source heads for this engine and an old low deck cross ram for it.

JeffJ
 
Welcome from Michigan. Great looking car and interesting color combo, Like it.
 
Thanks very much; it has been a ton of work.
The gold is the original colour; it was a Northern California car and it was in original paint when I brought it home. The interior and dash were gold and copper so I did the roof in copper to match it although that was not available from the factory even though it is clear it should have been with the interior combo it had. It was a Satellite hardtop with console and bucket seats, 383 auto, ps and pb but was radio delete. Very strange. No antenna nor hole in the right fender, no radio and had the delete plate. Paint under the delete plate where the radio nuts would have been was unmarred. Very strange given that it was an optioned car.
 
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