new trans leaking..

[BeepBeepRR]

I'm not going any further than to call Hughes Performance to negotiate how to fix this problem. I am not a transmission guy what so ever. However if I were I would have just repaired the original transmission instead of buying this one. So lets hope they make it right.

At this point I am out over a hundred bucks in transmission fluid.
2 times of removing this transmission.
1 giant bag of oil dry
2 pairs of pants
2 tshirts and
How much is mental anguish worth? LOL
2 sets of exhaust flange gaskets.

I would be ok with them telling me to take the transmission to a shop of their choosing and them footing the bill for the repair. As well as a voucher for a **** ton of trans fluid.

 

[malex]

Years ago I had a leak like that in my 69 Roadrunner. Had that trany out numerous times. Turned out that the torque converter collar had a hair line crack in it. Right along where the seal would run. It was a new converter.

On my 64 it was leaking like yours too, I was able to fix that with a shift shaft seal. It would run down across the front of the pan and drip at the centre.

I feel your pain..

 

[AR67GTX]

There should be little gasket washers behind those bolts - but I think I see them there. Possibly you could drain the transmission, remove the bolt and clean everything up and apply thread sealer, re-fill the transmission and then see what happens. There's a gasket behind the pump as well as a rubber sealing ring around the outside. I can't remember for sure if those pump mount holes are blind or drilled through the case - but I think they are blind. That would mean the gasket is somehow not sealing or the pump casting has a crack in it - or there could be a defect in the transmission case in that area - most likely a crack between the bolt hole and an adjacent oil passage. Pulling the pump is pretty straightforward but you will need a new gasket and o-ring to replace it. You can order those individual parts quickly from Makco.

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/A727tcE.html

Two of the holes in the pump are drilled and threaded oversize for I think 3/8 inch bolts. You can install 3/8 inch bolts after removing all of the 5/16 inch bolts (I think 5/16) and turn them to push the pump out of the case.

Good luck with what ever you decide to do. Very frustrating I'm sure.

 

[AR67GTX]

As a second thought - instead of pulling the pan to drain it again you could try raising the front of the transmission after installing the yoke in the tailshaft or sealing it somehow. That would get the oil away from the area if you want to try to clean and seal that one hole in place before doing something else. Having the transmission angled with the front up is also a good idea if you pull the pump as it will help keep the clutch packs in place. To be safe, if you pull the pump tighten the front band up to secure the front clutch pack so it can't follow the pump out. Count the exact number of turns you tighten it and when done loosen it the same number of turns and tighten the collar nut.

 

[miller]

For what it's worth, I don't recall ever using separate seals on the pump bolts. Though might be dif on later models...only built 69s and earlier.
The pump takes both a gasket, and a o-ring around the outer sealing surface, which is plenty to close it up.
I have seen, where the large o-ring had been put on, 'twisted', putting a kink in the seal, allowing a leak like your's. Also seen them get shaved, when the pump was installed.

 

[AR67GTX]

Miller - my 68 had them but could have been installed on an earlier rebuild from a small parts kit. Can't really see a need for them normally from memory. I think all those pump bolt holes are blind. Might be worthwhile to pull that one bolt out and blow it out and see if he can figure where the oil is first appearing - at the gasket line or deeper in the hole

I would send the transmission seller a copy of that video and talk to them but short of a cracked case - the fix might be less hassle than shipping it back for a replacement. A good heavy application of thread sealer may fix it up.

 

[miller]

AR67GTX...yeah, fully agree. Could simply be the gasket itself was damaged.

If it was mine, and trans was down, I'd pull the pump...new gasket...new o-ring, after looking things over. No reason it should leak there. Yeah, I feel his pain, after a shop could have made some mistake...and, have to pay for it! Choices.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

AR67GTX...yeah, fully agree. Could simply be the gasket itself was damaged.

If it was mine, and trans was down, I'd pull the pump...new gasket...new o-ring, after looking things over. No reason it should leak there. Yeah, I feel his pain, after a shop could have made some mistake...and, have to pay for it! Choices.

If you look at the transmission and pause it you can see the gasket poking out from between the pump and the case. Shouldn't this thing be flat behind the pump? Its almost like its squished out where the rubber o-ring should be sealing the pump. I'm not a trans guy but it looks odd.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Upon further inspection it is not a gasket its the inside of the pump hole that isnt painted. So it looks like a gasket in the video. Im on the phone with them as I type this.

 

[MarPar]

 

[BeepBeepRR]

They are shipping it back at their cost. They will let me know whats going on very soon. So far Hughes Performance stands behind their product. I have no grips thus far other than not having the car up and driving.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Out of curiosity I'd mark trans with a small scratch to see if you get the same trans back. I'd also ask for picture of what they found wrong. Just me.

 

[miller]

Foul mood. Doesn't make a damn what trans he gets back, as long as it WORKS.

Sorry deal they gotta 'whip' the things out (to make all that money), and can't even mount up a ?&$%#@ gasket right! Hehe...feelin' evil...a little touch of the sauce.

Money well spent? As long as I got two hands (no disrespect to any), I'll do my own.

 

[miller]

And...here I sit, with a badly sprained right wrist, right-handed, and a puddle of new anti-freeze on the floor, after putting fluid in my cooling system! Think it's a freeze plug, but won't know, until...
Are we havin' fun, yet!!!

 

[Fran Blacker]

I think a little more special sauce is in order.

 

[miller]

Aint't it the truth, brother! And, the horse they rode in on!

 

[BeepBeepRR]

I will possibly tear down the numbers matching transmission since its screwed anyhow. But wanted to get the car going before the 4th of july. Was gonna take it cruising. As was stated above about using your own 2 hands. I would have done that too but its not my car so I just did what we needed to do. Hell there are tons of videos on youtube showing how to disassemble and reassemble transmissions. I will rebuild the old one just for shits and giggles. Or at least attempt it. You never know until you try.

And I agree I don't care if they fix that one or build a new one either way I just want a transmission that doesn't squirt out 5 quarts of fluid over night.

 

[oldbee]

And here I started reading and got to "yellow puddle" on miller's post and thought what the h---? Although I have to say a "normal" rebuild is not hard, it gets harder if trying to diagnose&fix at the same time. Never had to do that, thank you Lord.

 

[miller]

Or at least attempt it. You never know until you try.

Seriously, BeepBeepRR...if the rebuilt trans is down, real easy to pull the pump. Would only take the new gasket/o-ring to seal it up...and down the road. But, it's your call on that.
Any chance the bolts are not tight?

Any rate, understand your frustration! Here's hope you get it fixed.

 

[threewood]

BEFORE YOU PULL THE PUMP TIGHTEN THE FRONT BAND!!!!! If you dont, the innards can pull with it causing all kinds of issues.

The seals are easy, composite between mating surface, rubber square o ring around the parimeter, and specific bolt washers with sealer. Hope you get it worked out.