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NXCoupe's Shop Build

Sure. optrel.us. I'm using the E684 currently. I was using their Vega View 2.5. The Vega replaced my Miller Elite. When I was doing the welding classes, I was having issues killing stainless and steel from too much heat. By the time I could see the weld pool and get moving, it was too late. Burned the chrome or carbon out. One day when I was having issues at the class, I borrowed a couple of helmets from the homies. One guy had a new Lincoln unit which was no different. The substitute instructor had an older Speedglass unit. BINGO! I could weld without killing the metal. The Miller blocked too much light, even on the lowest setting. About that time I received a new catalog from USAWELD. They talked about the Vega view unit and how you had more light transmission to see with but still had protection. I called and explained to the sales gal what I was experiencing with the Miller and she said the Optrel would help. It did. Later on as I'm getting older, the Vega was blocking a little too much so thats when I got the E684. Now my only problem after I had surgery for a facial spasm which closed up the left eye, is paying attention to the pool. The helmets can be had from Amazon, usaweld and some of the other online welding suppliers. The Optrels don't have the flashy appearance like the Miller's, Lincoln's etc but I don't care for that. I want function. I've been running the 684 just above 7 on my lower TIG settings for sheet metal and it works fine. The higher the amp, the brighter the light, so I run the settings up then.
 
Sure. optrel.us. I'm using the E684 currently. I was using their Vega View 2.5. The Vega replaced my Miller Elite. When I was doing the welding classes, I was having issues killing stainless and steel from too much heat. By the time I could see the weld pool and get moving, it was too late. Burned the chrome or carbon out. One day when I was having issues at the class, I borrowed a couple of helmets from the homies. One guy had a new Lincoln unit which was no different. The substitute instructor had an older Speedglass unit. BINGO! I could weld without killing the metal. The Miller blocked too much light, even on the lowest setting. About that time I received a new catalog from USAWELD. They talked about the Vega view unit and how you had more light transmission to see with but still had protection. I called and explained to the sales gal what I was experiencing with the Miller and she said the Optrel would help. It did. Later on as I'm getting older, the Vega was blocking a little too much so thats when I got the E684. Now my only problem after I had surgery for a facial spasm which closed up the left eye, is paying attention to the pool. The helmets can be had from Amazon, usaweld and some of the other online welding suppliers. The Optrels don't have the flashy appearance like the Miller's, Lincoln's etc but I don't care for that. I want function. I've been running the 684 just above 7 on my lower TIG settings for sheet metal and it works fine. The higher the amp, the brighter the light, so I run the settings up then.
Thanks! I will def look into that. I bought a new adjustable auto helmet from HF which is working well so far but I have not began tig welding yet.
 
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Figured it was time to get the doors installed, so Neil and I removed all the packing and set it in. I made the door opening too big, but it'll work. It took patience and a bunch of shims, but overall I'm really happy with how it turned out.
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My neighbor got his car back together and needed me to massage the keys and get his sniper tuned for the bigger cam and heads. He brought the car down and also brought the baseboard molding. He had it done in 20 minutes. Man is a machine. It looks great, matches the cabinets nicely.
His car needs a new distributor, which is why it was running crappy. I need to paint the doors and trim and then put knobs on them. It's pretty much done inside. Time to move on outside of the walls.
I started working on emptying out totes, getting them out of the way. I got about 10 to 12 emptied out. I am finding cool stuff as I go, and a lot of stuff that needs to go in the trash. Still need to put shelves up on the inside walls so the tools and manuals have a place to go. More later. Trying to empty and move totes so I can move my toolbox into the engine room. Thanks for looking!
 
It is time for the next portion of phase 2 to begin and that is putting up the walls so I can start putting my work benches and porting bench up. That will entail building wall frames, putting plastic barrier up and then installing insulation afterwards. The difference is, that these walls will be about 15 feet tall. I'm not looking forward to the first one but it has to be done. I am also going to use steel instead of drywall at certain points on the wall for easy clean up, since I do a lot of T5, TKO, TKX and T56 rebuilds, that can get messy because most guys don't drain them before bringing them to me. The rest of the walls will be drywalled and taped, mudded, sanded and painted. I need to get started so I can start porting heads and doing 5 angle valve jobs again. I have 5 engine projects of mine that are all waiting on this.
That's the latest. Pics and progress to come soon.
 
Looking fantastic... I need to get over your way one of these days and check it out in person!
 
I always had more fun working "on" my shop than working "in" my shop......... gets a little spendy tho
 
Finally made time to get back at this. I need my porting bench like yesterday, so that's the motivation g
For getting on this.
I had 2 guys to help me today, as lifting this was going to be awkward at best.
I laid all the boards out onto the floor and got all the tools, supplies and sawhorses out and ready.
We used the studmaster 16 on center tool to do the bottom half and 24 on center for the upper half. We got both frames all done and then nailed them together into one piece.
I got the plastic out and we laid it out over the frame. It was stapled down to the frame. We flipped it over and installed the insulation and then lifted it upright and slid it over and into place. We nailed it to both of the 6x6s to hold it into place. The 2x4s are not straight at all, and the concrete between the posts isn't level either, so you can see it is off up top a little bit. It's not engine building, so close enough is good enough.

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