Odometer "adjusting".....

[YY1]

While I have my steering column out, I'm thinking about swapping in one of my rallye clusters.

My Satellite has 60,000 original miles and I'd like the odo to reflect that.

Anyone know how to run one back or forward without destroying it or taking forever?

IIRC I've got one speedo that says 89,000 and another that says 12,000.

 

[Cranky]

I did one over 30 years ago and really don't remember exactly what I did but it wasn't that hard once looking at it apart. And no, you don't need a drill motor running for hours on end lol. I was able to roll the numbers to where I wanted them which was all 0's since the car was getting a total rebuild. It was a Challenger with the Rallye cluster....

 

[440+6]

It so easy you can do it without instructions from anyone.

 

[jimt1971rr]

I have an extra 150 speedo from a 71 to 74 cluster and took a look at it. I was able to adjust it with just a small screwdriver and pair of needle nose pliers. All you really need to do is take the speedo off of the dash panel, and remove the small spring clip for the non gear side. (thus the tools) After that, you can hold the stabilizer piece, don't know the actual name, and rotate forward or backward the barrel just below in the sequence to adjust the number. I was able to set mine to exactly 60,000.0 miles in just a couple of minutes. Just make sure you put it back together right and don't lose the clip. It's small!

 

[YY1]

There are "fingers" that lock the set of "barrels" in relation to the sheet metal opening in the face.

This can be disengaged by freeing the barrel axle.

Note all the attachment points are tiny rivets or bent aluminum or steel, capturing other parts and implying the potential of small part breakage or mis-alignment upon reassembly.

The barrels appear to be keyed to each other internally, so rotating one without affecting the next (presumably at 1/10 of a mile increments) is not possible (or at least not readily apparent).

I'm not generally intimidated by things this small and delicate, but I am with this.

 

[Cranky]

There are "fingers" that lock the set of "barrels" in relation to the sheet metal opening in the face.

This can be disengaged by freeing the barrel axle.

Note all the attachment points are tiny rivets or bent aluminum or steel, capturing other parts and implying the potential of small part breakage or mis-alignment upon reassembly.

The barrels appear to be keyed to each other internally, so rotating one without affecting the next (presumably at 1/10 of a mile increments) is not possible (or at least not readily apparent).

I'm not generally intimidated by things this small and delicate, but I am with this.

Yup...moving one enough will make the next one over move just like when it's hooked up to the cable and driving but if I can do it, I'm betting you can too. Just be patient and take your time. If you noticed all of what you mentioned already, then you're paying attention and will figure how to get it to where you want it. Can you do a Rubiks Cube? Never had the patient for them bastards....I mean they weren't something that I wanted to figure out lol or you can take it to a speedometer shop if there's one in your area. They might be a dying breed or already gone by now though.

 

[Darthomas]

When I finally had my 66 restored, I decided I wanted the odometer to show how far I had driven it, instead of other people. So I wrote +75529 mi. on the back of the cluster, and set the dials to 00000.0. Wasn't too hard.

 

[kiwigtx]

Anyone know how to run one back or forward without destroying it or taking forever?

Ask any unscrupulous car Salesman....

Seriously, like said above, it is very easy once the odometer is out and on the workbench.