• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Opinions please...440 build

Brandy

Jack Stand Racer #6..and proud of it!
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
8:41 PM
Joined
Oct 16, 2014
Messages
29,607
Reaction score
73,195
Location
Salisbury, Vermont
send out block for cleaning, inspection, +.30 and zero piston deck height.
grind stock crank to -.010 fit with MAHLE Clevite bearings and Milodon studs.
set of KB Hypereutectic flat top forged pistons w/ File Fit Plasma moly rings
resize rods fit with ARP bolts
Comp Cam XE285HL Hyd flat tappet cam
RPM heads complete
Mopar M1 single plane intake
850 Demon.
 
Last edited:
send out block for cleaning, inspection, +.30 and zero piston deck height.
grind stock crank to -.010 fit with MAHLE Clevite bearings and Milodon studs.
set of Probe flat top forged pistons w/ Speed pro File Fit Plasma moly rings
resize rods fit with ARP bolts
Comp Cam XE285HL Hyd flat tappet cam
RPM heads complete
Mopar M1 single plane intake
850 Demon.
Only thing I would change just because I'm not a fan of hydraulic cams is i would go with comp xtreme energy XR286R solid roller sounds like a solid build though
 
If I change to solid wont I have to change valve train as well?
 
If you don't already have pistons rods rings bearings and cost of resizing then balancing...I'd do the math you won't be far off a stroker kit or 446 kit from the source or eagle
 
send out block for cleaning, inspection, +.30 and zero piston deck height.
grind stock crank to -.010 fit with MAHLE Clevite bearings and Milodon studs.
set of Probe flat top forged pistons w/ Speed pro File Fit Plasma moly rings
resize rods fit with ARP bolts
Comp Cam XE285HL Hyd flat tappet cam
RPM heads complete
Mopar M1 single plane intake
850 Demon.

Looks real good to me. But I'm also a solid lifter guy, but go with what you want.
 
Just the lifters I believe

Solid cam/lifter package (whether roller or not) absolutely require adjustable rockers which will usually add expense.

Roller cam/lifter package (over the flat tappet cam/lifter package and irrespective if solid or hydraulic) add further significant expense.

Explains why hydraulic flat tappets are so popular as they offer the best bang for buck. Going solid is a performance upgrade many consider essential, but is extra expense if you don't have adjustable rocker gear already and requires occasional clearance checking adjustment. The valve train is usually noisier than hydraulic set ups too, but if performance is the only goal, you would not care about the noise. Going roller is a further performance upgrade many nowadays consider essential when building a serious engine.

It's all up to what you want from your engine and (as usual) how much you are willing to $$pend.
 
For some reason I was thinking you had rockers already...
 
I have a 690 284 Lunati roller with good lifters if you want to go that way. Real good power. Or a 635/645 Mushroom lifter that makes power equal to any of the rollers I used.
 
For some reason I was thinking you had rockers already...
The Hotrodding article I read stated that they found the rockers on the 70-74 440 motor home engine to be both lightweight and sturdy enough up to 600 HP. So I have no plans to buy any unless I find that mine are wacked..plus, the pickup I have on layaway at the local yard, that has a 440 in it, has an RPM intake and is purported to be an engine that the local owner had put some cash into with various upgrades. I have no reliable info on exactly what upgrades were done, if any. That dude has passed on. It has a cam I know, it has some rump-rump to it. I may open it up and find literally any damn thing in there. So I have to wait till I pay it off, and own it to see whats up. It has been told to me by several local guys that this dude was a local racer and they knew that 440 had been put in several cars and then this truck. Plus I have the other 440 in my garage on the stand.
 
I have a 690 284 Lunati roller with good lifters if you want to go that way. Real good power. Or a 635/645 Mushroom lifter that makes power equal to any of the rollers I used.
Okay, so give me some idea of the performance profile I could expect with either of those set ups on the 440 I'm building with either the M1 single plane, or a tall Weiand tunnel ram dual plane.
 
Okay, so give me some idea of the performance profile I could expect with either of those set ups on the 440 I'm building with either the M1 single plane, or a tall Weiand tunnel ram dual plane.

The mushroom is a bad *** piece. Performance was 600+ HP with my ironheads (906 & 915). 690 Lunati roller about the same. Roller was a little harder on valve springs. I'm sure todays springs are a lot better. I ran both at 7000 RPM.
 
I have a 690 284 Lunati roller with good lifters if you want to go that way. Real good power. Or a 635/645 Mushroom lifter that makes power equal to any of the rollers I used.
Don't the mushroom foot lifters open another can of worms though? Narrowed lobes etc?
 
Don't the mushroom foot lifters open another can of worms though? Narrowed lobes etc?
They need to be installed from underneath, but not anything else different. This is a really good high power cam. I should be running it in my new 512 motor. It is very close to the 690 Lunati roller (.05 or so)
 
I just learned that Probe is not making BB RB pistons anymore. Keith Black Hypereutectic flat tops with two relief cuts are 30% stronger and lighter and have more rigid skirts to center them in the bore. So. Am I correct that you have to use open chamber heads or else machine the quench dome? Since the stock bore is 4.350 and stroke 3.75. if it's bored to .30 over do I need 4.80 pistons then? Dumb question I know....
 
They need to be installed from underneath, but not anything else different. This is a really good high power cam. I should be running it in my new 512 motor. It is very close to the 690 Lunati roller (.05 or so)
Any issues with drivability? Not really building a race car here, just a street cruiser, occasional pass at the strip.
 
Any issues with drivability? Not really building a race car here, just a street cruiser, occasional pass at the strip.
Sorry, no idea about drivability but it drives around the pits just fine. It's a drag race cam. Big power.
 
Ok then, that wont be for me. I will be needing something milder. Thanks though. Another question....the Felpro valley pan and gasket set looks good but someone said you use this because it blocks off the heat crossover ports? Is this right? Or does it depend on other issues.
 
Ok then, that wont be for me. I will be needing something milder. Thanks though. Another question....the Felpro valley pan and gasket set looks good but someone said you use this because it blocks off the heat crossover ports? Is this right? Or does it depend on other issues.
You can order the valley pan with or without a blocked heat cross-over. I don't like the paper manifold port gaskets that some kits come with. They can mess up port and bolt hole alignment. Summit has what you need. Get one with a blocked heat passage, those manifolds get plenty hot with the blocked one. Then use a little RTV at the ends on the bottom side, and around and along the bottom of the ports. Then just around the ports on the top side, just a thin layer. The pan has a raised sealing surface that compresses when you tighten the bolts, and that helps it seal.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top