Replacing broken studs aluminum trim

[Ron H]

My '63 Fury has decorative aluminum panels on the rear. Some of the 3/16" studs are broke and trying to come up with a way to repair thinking t-studs or carriage studs would do the trick. My concern though is finding an adhesive or epoxy that would bond the studs to the panel. Searching the net I found JB Weld as a recommendation then another post saying this stuff has failed. Then I found PC-7 and Hysol EA 9390 and on it goes! I've posted a couple photos of what needs fixing.
Has anyone done this sort of repair having suggestions?

 

[brian6pac]

So the steel stud is broke or the boss is broke out of the aluminum?

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I'm not familiar with that part, but in general, all epoxies (like JB Weld or any other one for that matter) will stick very well to CLEAN and SLIGHTLY SCUFFED aluminum. The downside of epoxy is that it's brittle, so don't over-tighten or plan on putting the panel one/off too many times. You could also use a 2-component polyurethane adhesive or even maybe a 1-component/moisture cure (like Liquid Nails) which won't hold quite as well as epoxy, but will probably be plenty strong + has the advantage of being more flexible (in general) than epoxies.

Also, IF the part doesn't fit perfectly and has a tendency to vibrate (?) + you're using JB Weld or other epoxy, then maybe you could put some very thin 2-sided tape behind the part (where you can't see) to take out the vibration/epoxy crack possibility.

 

[Ron H]

The boss is still intact it appears; wonder how it was affixed to begin with...possible weld of some sort but there is so little alloy there between the channel design. I have a an older pic of the car showing these panels here. Several were broke out when I exposed them so who knows how long they had been broke. This area is subject to lots of vibration I'd suppose and losing the studs could mean a panel left on the highway which is why I'm so **** about a good adhesive or other method. My thought is a t-stud having a longer rectangular base to set in the channel milling out the boss to have more surface to adhere to the back of the panel. Looking on the net there look to be a lot of choices with some minor fab to set T in the channel. As you mention here some adhesives get brittle and this seems to be the case with JB as described as failure to stay adhered in some posts I read elsewhere. I also toyed with possibly drilling out the boss to put a threaded stud in there but so little depth I'd maybe get a thread or so that's about it.

 

[brian6pac]

Don't wast your time on jb and other over the counter home grade stuff. Use a panel bonder pro grade and it will never come off.
http://www.pliogripbyvalvoline.com/panel-bonding/

 

[Superb Bee]

Brian beat me to it. Panel adhesive. And if you don't have the pin make one out of a screw. I'm not embarrassed to say I have used some stainless drywall looking screws to fix panels on cars I sold for 35k plus lol. Grind the head off and 3m epoxy it on. The stuff is amazing. I'll grab the number off it in a second

 

[Superb Bee]

Ok I have gun and adhesive 8571 and 8115 there's a guy on eBay sells them with a couple tips for $80. You won't find a better price

I have fixed a ton of them white metal super need tail light bezels. The little pins fall out so I grind a screw to the right size and shape drill a tiny hole for it to set into and then a tiny bit of that 3m you will stretch the screw before that gives up

 

[brian6pac]

I have been using the Valvoline branded # 8007 60 minute adhesive, I was told it's as good as 3M and 1/2 the price. I try to stick to name brand like 3M, 3 Bond, permatex, loctite, but in reality 3 Bond makes most all RTV's for everybody, 3M makes a lot of adhesives for everybody. Mactac also makes alot of adhesives and you hardly ever see there name on anything. But that said I found 8007 on ebay for $31.00 Still need a gun avr price about $50
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140922286380?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&fromMakeTrack=true

 

[wagonman]

Following this as my 68 R/R trunk finish panel has a couple of studs broken off. Seems they are made of a white/ aluminum material. No room on the back side to drill and stud/nut it.

 

[Superb Bee]

when you can't drill a bit of a hole to set the pin or screw in. Get a pan head screw or flat head nail and just touch it up with a Dremel tool. Make the head flat and epoxy it into position

 

[Ron H]

Thanks for the info on a good adhesive was thinking of the possibility as mentioned about drilling out the hole and starting thread to then seat with adhesive besides the t-stud thought seated and bonded. Pardon my ignorance; but the gun mentioned must be used for other work not having application for stud bonding so I'd assume?