- Local time
- 5:21 PM
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2008
- Messages
- 3,195
- Reaction score
- 2,599
- Location
- Kindersley,Saskatchewan, Canada
This is how I have done mine for the last 44 years. Has always worked excellent for me. I learned this from an old timer. Kim
I'm about to get the pistons in the block so I've been contemplating ring gap position. I've got two engine building books, the instructions that came with the rings and the factory service manual. They all say something different! The FSM is rather vague, stating, "Be sure that the compression rings are staggered so that neither are in line with oil ring rail gaps. The oil ring expander ends should be positioned towards the outside V of the engine. The oil ring gaps should be positioned opposite each other and above the piston pin holes." I guess that's pretty exact for the oil rings. Use your imagination for the compression!!
Most ring manufacturers use to put insulation instructions in the box. I have always followed the FSM.I'm about to get the pistons in the block so I've been contemplating ring gap position. I've got two engine building books, the instructions that came with the rings and the factory service manual. They all say something different! The FSM is rather vague, stating, "Be sure that the compression rings are staggered so that neither are in line with oil ring rail gaps. The oil ring expander ends should be positioned towards the outside V of the engine. The oil ring gaps should be positioned opposite each other and above the piston pin holes." I guess that's pretty exact for the oil rings. Use your imagination for the compression!!
If I wasn't going to the track right away with a street legal car, it usually got a good burnout in the street.A good example of ring seating;
Race engine. Build it. Break cam in. Go straight to track and beat on it.
That's the best case scenario for modern rings.
And rings do rotate. Some high end guys actually have an rpm number for that.
ABSOLUTELY CORRECT....the rings rotate in their respective lands due to the cross-hatching of the cylinder bore. These minute hone grooves retain enough of the oil film to provide lubrication. Rings can be "pinned" to prevent rotation but must be allowed to grow thermally or they will break. The exception may be a head land ring whose ends overlap to reduce blowby......just my opinion.....What makes them rotate is the cross hatch. Kind of like gun rifling.
Bob I'm surprised that you didn't mention which engines are designed to require pinned rings. Are ya slippin'?ABSOLUTELY CORRECT....the rings rotate in their respective lands due to the cross-hatching of the cylinder bore. These minute hone grooves retain enough of the oil film to provide lubrication. Rings can be "pinned" to prevent rotation but must be allowed to grow thermally or they will break. The exception may be a head land ring whose ends overlap to reduce blowby......just my opinion.....
BOB RENTON
Just getting older...perhaps forgetful. To rhat end, PLEASE enlighten me...always interested in learning more....Bob I'm surprised that you didn't mention which engines are designed to require pinned rings. Are ya slippin'?
In a nut shell, the face of the ring takes a set to the cylinder wall. Cast rings take longer than say a Moly filled ring and each one takes a different grit finish hone on the cylinders.