Running great! Then......no start?

[koosh]

Took this 69 RR out last night for nice cruise, been running/starting great....went to start this morning, -----nothing, no clicks, noises, nothing. Ebrake lite comes on with ignition switch on, then dims when turning to start....had to go to work, but before I left, thru meter on the battery, read 12.8 volts.....ballast resistor? coil?

 

[Don Frelier]

Probably one of the following in this order: (Check your battery connections first of course)
1. Neutral safety if it's an automatic, lower right brown wire on the relay
2. Starter relay (the newer ones have a crappy swaged connector on the center pin which goes to the starter solenoid)
3. Bulkhead connector (yellow wire)
4. Starter but I doubt it

 

[koosh]

Probably one of the following in this order: (Check your battery connections first of course)
1. Neutral safety if it's an automatic, lower right brown wire on the relay
2. Starter relay (the newer ones have a crappy swaged connector on the center pin which goes to the starter solenoid)
3. Bulkhead connector (yellow wire)
4. Starter but I doubt it

This is a 4 speed, I assume there's a neutral safety switch somewhere for that too?
Where is starter relay located?

 

[Don Frelier]

The starter relay is right next to the steering column shaft on the firewall in the engine compartment.

 

[Glenwood]

Sounds like bulkhead connector or perhaps loose ground strap to the engine.

 

[koosh]

OK...I'll check this tonite...I know that the ground strap is good, recently sanded block down at terminal end for good connection....both battery cables are also new.....

 

[Lionized]

This is a 4 speed, I assume there's a neutral safety switch somewhere for that too?
Where is starter relay located?

Grab a long bladed screwdriver and jump the posts on the starter (ensure that the car is in neutral!). If it cranks:
Your starter relay is on the firewall, just below the bulkhead connection. There is an image of an automatic relay in this thread:

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/starter-relay.110667/

 

[koosh]

so no one thinks its the ballast resistor? back in the stone ages, when I had my first roadrunner, seems like that was the culprit all the time.....but after 48 years, memory seems to leave me.....

 

[Don Frelier]

The ballast resistor is only used to cut down the voltage to the ignition during run and increase the life of the points. It has no affect on the starting circuit. It's just keyswitch, bulkhead, relay and neutral safety (but I'm not sure about a manual, I think the relay may be different where there the ground on the relay is the case/mounting screws)

 

[koosh]

The ballast resistor is only used to cut down the voltage to the ignition during run and increase the life of the points. It has no affect on the starting circuit. It's just keyswitch, bulkhead, relay and neutral safety (but I'm not sure about a manual, I think the relay may be different where there the ground on the relay is the case/mounting screws)

Yes, relay different for manual tranny, (just ordered one)....I don't know if theres a neutral safety switch or not...

 

[gdrill]

I don't think my 69 has a neutral safety switch on it.

 

[91r/t]

So no clicks or nothing? It definitely isn't the coil or ballast as both would still turn over. I am with them, check the starter relay with a screwdriver across the terminals. It should turn over and fire with the key in the on position with the screwdriver method. I don't believe it has any neutral safety on a 69. The prong that usually goes from the neutral safety switch on the automatic car relay is internally grounded on the relay on the manual tranny cars. I believe 1970 was the start of the clutch safety switch where you had to press it down to get it to turn over.

 

[Bill Monk]

Guys are steering you in the right direction. Best guess is relay or the bulkhead connector. As was already stated, it's the yellow wire. If you eliminate these 2 and still have the problem, do a voltage drop test on the positive main battery cable. My car gave me fits and finally pinned it down to that .
http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm

 

[HT413]

I’ll just throw this in there in addition to all of the above why don’t you make sure your battery cables are nice and tight. Sometimes a loose positive or negative on the battery can conduct enough electricity for stereo and accessories but cuts right out when you try to start the car

 

[koosh]

I’ll just throw this in there in addition to all of the above why don’t you make sure your battery cables are nice and tight. Sometimes a loose positive or negative on the battery can conduct enough electricity for stereo and accessories but cuts right out when you try to start the car

YUP...already mentioned cables were new, clean and tight, but thanks for the input!

 

[koosh]

So no clicks or nothing? It definitely isn't the coil or ballast as both would still turn over. I am with them, check the starter relay with a screwdriver across the terminals. It should turn over and fire with the key in the on position with the screwdriver method. I don't believe it has any neutral safety on a 69. The prong that usually goes from the neutral safety switch on the automatic car relay is internally grounded on the relay on the manual tranny cars. I believe 1970 was the start of the clutch safety switch where you had to press it down to get it to turn over.

so the screwdriver trick is across terminals on the relay? not the starter?

 

[Bill Monk]

so the screwdriver trick is across terminals on the relay? not the starter?

yes

 

[koosh]

yes

thanks

 

[Bill Monk]

By the way, the main positive that gave me the trouble was also new and when I did the drop test, I only had 3 volts at the starter! Cable was bad

 

[91r/t]

Just make sure key is in on position or itl'll crank and wont ever start......ask me how I know....durrrr! Haha! Also make sure it's in neutral!