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Small Bolt... Big Problum.?.?.?

66DodgeCharger

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Neillsvile WI
Hi, I finally got around tot installing some of my parts after getting parts and them painted... well I started simple, I started with the valley tray pan and the steel plate and I was just putting the tray and plates in place and hand tightening the bolts by hand then going around and tightening them by a ratch (I didn't get to torque them down yet because of what happened), well in the process two of the bolt heads broke off, what do I, do I need to drill them out and then tap them or what?... im kinda "panicking" because I'm not experienced with stuff like this and this is the biggest obstacle I came across so far. What do I need to do...

And do i have to worry about any other bolts breaking?.?.?.

Thanks

Jesse
 
If you pull the manifold, there might be enough broken bolt showing to get ahold of them to back them out. If not, a reversible drill bit might do it, or get a set of easyouts.

Go to your local hardware store and get yourself some grade 8 bolts of the same size. You must not be useing the factory bolts or you need to cut back on the Wheaties that you're eating.
 
Find a left hand drill bit from one of the tool trucks. Snap On, Matco etc. As the lefty bites in, they can spin out the broken fastener on some applications.
 
Were the bolts to long? If they bottomed out I think they'd snap easier.
 
If the bolt didn't bottom out in the bore you may be able to take a small pointed pick or screw driver and just thread it out, if the threads were cleaned and lubed it will help
 
Don't panic. I've done that myself. Since you say "valley tray pan" I will assume you've got a big block. You don't have to take off the intake if it's already on & I'd "try" to leave the valley pan in place if I could (keep any metal out of the engine). You'll need to get those broken bolts out by one of the means these other guys suggest. If you're drilling it out with a reverse drill bit, then leave the valley pan in place (keep metal shavings out).

Your bolts were too long. You can either get shorter ones or use some washers so they don't bottom out. If worse came to worse, you "could" just put tons of silicone in that area & leave the bolts broken. I wouldn't do that, but it's not really doing anything more than keeping dirt out & the oil in (not under pressure).
 
"Been there done that" Try the back out bit as described earlier. That is the best chance to remove the broken bolt. I am not sure if you are working on a big block, but my work was done on a 440. I also agree with an earlier statement that suggested original bolts or grade 8 bolts. Do not get cheap bolts. You can buy a set of good ones on ebay:
  • Item: 401171034203 I would not get the 12 pt bolts
Now, if you accidentally booger up the threads, try to repair them with an appropriate size tap. If that gives you too loose of a bolt, or the threads start to strip, you can always drill out the threads with the bit that the coil calls for, tap it for over sized thread coil that has the same ID as the original bolt. These coils are stainless steel and work really well. I also agree with a previous poster, don't remove the pan unless there was a leak previous to removing the manifold. Finally, use your torque wrench beyond snug. I believe the book calls for 50 ft. lbs, check it in your manual. I would stop at 35 and see what you have. You can torque them up while you watch your vac gauge but if you are maxed out on vac I'd just leave them at 35-40 ft. lbs. You run the chance of stripping the threads on old used threads, especially if you torqued the previous bolts to the point of popping off the heads.
I hope this helps. I hope you do not have to go as far as using a coil, but if you do, don't freak out over it, it is not that big of an ordeal. Oh, one more thing, if you do use a coil, make sure that you follow the instructions on how far to screw the coil in. Also, someone mentioned bottoming out of the bolt. My head on the 440 (915) has threaded hole through the head. If yours is that way, make sure not to get shavings down in the head.
 
The great thing I've found is, if you have a pneumatic engraver. Use a center punch to put a divot towards the outside of the bolt and then put the engraver on said pocket and push it around counterclockwise. I have removed a lot of bolts this way. Depending on how tight you had it before it twisted off. The vibration acts like a impact wrench.
 
IMG_20170418_113359.jpg
 
Sorry I didn't list the engine block, I am working on a 361 c.i big block and I didn't get a change to even torque the bolts down that was just snugging them up with a ratchet and not that much also just enough to where I couldn't turn them by hand at all... and I highly think that the bolts bottomed out, they have washers that stay on them all the time, and also have those steel plates that get put on on top of the end of the valley tray pan...

Would painting the bolts and the plates have this outcome?

Pictures will come soon, my phone is down at the moment...
 
Something to add to the reverse drill bit suggestion, they work a lot better if you first drill a smaller hole (makes the reverse bit more prone to bite instead of drilling). They work great as long as the bolt isn't seized which in your case shouldn't be the case.

On 1/4" bolts I typically tighten them with a nut driver, plenty of torque but little chance of breaking them.
 
You could weld a nut to what's left over and back it out that way.
 
I seen that on Youtube but one of the bolt heads broke a couple threads down and I might accidentally weld it shut... the other broke off almost flush...
 
the vale covers are off... Im replace all the easy gaskets and making "perty" under the hood hahahahaha... ill check that out real quick
 
I think you might be thinking of the manifold bolts... its the valley tray end bolts that broke off...
 
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