That's a good idea too. The way the wire and cable are routed now it should be OK. Originally I had them running between the header pipes over to the inner fender and then to the firewall.
Starter heat shield ideas
- Thread starter CoronetDarter
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I like the sound of the new mini starters but when I hear a Mopar with the stock starter, I smile more.
Reinstalling the headers is a two person job. Maria was underneath holding up the collector end while I lined up the flange. When I was finally done I went inside for a celebratory beer and forgot to tell Maria; came back 20 minutes later and she was still holding up the collector. What a gal!
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I have adopted a technique for that....
I use a threaded dowel at the rearmost header bolt and then thread in the bolts in from the front to the rear.
Maria is a cool chick, Rich. I like her.
I use a threaded dowel at the rearmost header bolt and then thread in the bolts in from the front to the rear.
Maria is a cool chick, Rich. I like her.
What makes it tricky is using the Remflex gaskets. They're the best header gaskets by far when installed, but fragile at the same time. They can bend and crease just staring at them too hard, rendering them useless. My install rate is 50%.
After creasing the first one on the back edge of the head, I had my neighbor come over and guide the rear 2 tubes while i worked the front and Maria down at the collector. With three people it was a 5 minute job.
After creasing the first one on the back edge of the head, I had my neighbor come over and guide the rear 2 tubes while i worked the front and Maria down at the collector. With three people it was a 5 minute job.
Everything buttoned up, car still up on jack stands. Before putting the front tire back on I jump in, turn the key and the engine fires right up! Let it idle for 10 seconds and shut if off.
Put the wheel back on, lower the car on the ground, put away all the tools and jump in to take a test drive. Nothing. Just that high-pitched scream of the starter solenoid. WTF?!? I am so done with this car.
Put the wheel back on, lower the car on the ground, put away all the tools and jump in to take a test drive. Nothing. Just that high-pitched scream of the starter solenoid. WTF?!? I am so done with this car.
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Son of a bitch.
Rich, Are you saying that when you turn the key you hear the starter motor spin but it's not engaging the flywheel teeth?
Wietse
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Low battery voltage? If it makes a difference?
hunt2elk
Well-Known Member
Dang Rich, seems like some if my bad luck working on these old cars has made it all the way to CA and latched onto you. By the way, Maria is definitely a keeper. Had to chuckle when looking at the pic of her under the car and thinking that it is a good thing you have her around because I don't know if you would physically fit under there, lol.
I believe so. The sound is like nails on a chalkboard.
Do you think it's mechanical interference or electrical?
I wondered that too. I jumped the battery and no change.
Yeah Joel, it's a tight fit. My forearms and hands look like they went though a meat grinder.
BTW, been following your build thread. Seems a lot of your roadblocks are vendor related, feels like mine are more self induced. I liked your post "I'm going to win".
I'm really hoping this latest set back is an electrical connection because I dread having to pull the starter again. Once I get my head back into it I was going to pull the solenoid wire at the starter and test for 12V when keyed to Start.
Please, anything but..
Wietse
Well-Known Member
I worked on my starter today as well, installing new wiring.
The motor is out so i have plenty space to play around, what i did notice was there is some "play" on the bolt and stud that hold down the starter on mine. (440 source mini starter 123-1000)
After seeing that it made me wonder as i remember your issue, i don't know what starter you are using but in the previous picture your old starter also looks like the 440 source starter.
Could it be it shifted a bit after the first start which causes the starter pinion not to engage the ring gear?
I know it's a pain in the ***, but could be worth a try to loosen the fasteners a bit and see if there is play.
After pull outwards, away from the engine as far as it would go and retighten the bolts again to see if that helps.
The motor is out so i have plenty space to play around, what i did notice was there is some "play" on the bolt and stud that hold down the starter on mine. (440 source mini starter 123-1000)
After seeing that it made me wonder as i remember your issue, i don't know what starter you are using but in the previous picture your old starter also looks like the 440 source starter.
Could it be it shifted a bit after the first start which causes the starter pinion not to engage the ring gear?
I know it's a pain in the ***, but could be worth a try to loosen the fasteners a bit and see if there is play.
After pull outwards, away from the engine as far as it would go and retighten the bolts again to see if that helps.
Rich,
If you want to, PM me your address and I'll take a ride by and have a listen at your convenience. Meanwhile, check your voltage at the starter relay larger terminal. If it's over 12 volts, try to jump terminals on the relay and see what happens. A/T or 4 speed? Sorry, I'm old and my memory is not to be relied on...
It's been a few years since I put the car but I don't think it's a 440 Source - although I do have their Stealth heads. I think the starter came from Rock Auto.
The new one is from Mancini Racing.
And unbolting the starter from the trans isn't very difficult; actually removing it is the PITA. I'm gonna start small and poke around the starter relay and connections and work my way down. Thanks for the tip, I'll check it out if the problem doesn't surface in the connections.
It's 12.1V at the starter relay. I jumpered to the solenoid terminal and the starter solenoid energized same as with the key.
It's a 3 on the tree A/T. If jumpering the starter relay energizes the solenoid then doesn't that rule out the NSS connection?
There's 12.1V at the relay and 12.45V at the battery (trunk mounted). Is it possible there's only enough voltage to engage the solenoid but not turn over the starter? Fully charged batt should be over 13V.
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Jumped the battery with my 4runner, still the grinding noise. Now I'm leaning towards a mechanical issue with the gears not meshing. Originally starter did turn over and the engine started while on the jack stands, but now I'm second guessing if the starter bolts were torqued adequately. At least the mounting bolts can be checked/tightened with the headers in place.
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