Stock Bore & Stroke 426 Hemi parts

[VANDAN]

I picked up a Hemi engine locally, that was built years ago, but never fired. I don't know the history on the build, so decided a complete tear down, and re-assembly would be the best plan, so it wouldn't self destruct upon usage. It appears to be a stock bore & stroke, higher compression pistons, so not pump gas friendly. My plans are a build for street/strip, with no real seriousness for the strip half, only maybe a local NSS class, 7-8 summer nights a year, and maybe a few bigger MOPAR Events a few times a year. NO Points Racing. I was wondering if there is any market (re-sale) value for the internals (pistons, rods & crank), all new and possibly a balanced set, if I decide to replace all with a matched set, more suited to my build ? Just looking for feedback, and ideas. Thanks.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

Crank and rods have some value. Pistons possibly if someone has a block that they will fit in and wants that compression ratio.

There're a few people you can call to get a full rotating kit. I just went through molnar as they work with cp pistons for my new 4.5” kit. Balanced and ready to go. With any hemi I would suggest a stroker crank just to drag the rpm range down to a more usable level.

 

[wyrmrider]

can you find out who built the motor?
you can probably tell if it has bee balanced
look for machining on the pistons, rods, crank
Agree on the stroker kit -
however you could also mill off some or all of the dome (unless they are high buck hollow dome pistons)- this would be the most cost effective move
check the number on the crank- real hemi crank? 6 or 8 bolt crank flange, drilled for stick etc? Keep the balancer with it
what cam's in it?
hemi pistons tend to be heavy so use as long a rod as possible to cut piston weight- but you also have to keep skirt to prevent piston rock- tradeoff
for durability go to longer skirt and hold the rpm down
remember hemi rods are longer than 440
stock valves?
hope no one screwed up the ports
cheers

 

[Hemirunner]

Crank and rods have some value. Pistons possibly if someone has a block that they will fit in and wants that compression ratio.

There're a few people you can call to get a full rotating kit. I just went through molnar as they work with cp pistons for my new 4.5” kit. Balanced and ready to go. With any hemi I would suggest a stroker crank just to drag the rpm range down to a more usable level.

View attachment 614603 View attachment 614602

Nice!! Keep us posted on that build!

 

[Bobzilla]

Is it an original factory block? Better yet, is a later factory block stamped with a vehicle's vin info?

 

[VANDAN]

can you find out who built the motor?
you can probably tell if it has bee balanced
look for machining on the pistons, rods, crank
Agree on the stroker kit -
however you could also mill off some or all of the dome (unless they are high buck hollow dome pistons)- this would be the most cost effective move
check the number on the crank- real hemi crank? 6 or 8 bolt crank flange, drilled for stick etc? Keep the balancer with it
what cam's in it?
hemi pistons tend to be heavy so use as long a rod as possible to cut piston weight- but you also have to keep skirt to prevent piston rock- tradeoff
for durability go to longer skirt and hold the rpm down
remember hemi rods are longer than 440
stock valves?
hope no one screwed up the ports
cheers

There's really no chance on finding the builder, unless he happens to read this thread. A local fellow picked up a 3 motor deal, from Ohio, and brought them back to the Buffalo area. He sold the 392, and is using the '69 dated in his Charger. The engine I picked up is a MP block, possibly a crate motor, so it does have the capability for a larger bore. He said he was told when he bought the package, the intake & carbs were from one of the Sox & Martin S/S Barracudas ? No idea how you could check that out, and it really didn't play into my plans anyway. The heads are aluminum, and we haven't gotten to look at those in detail yet, and hoping no one messed with those too much either. My builder is behind on his schedule, so this will be a slow process, as it's # 4-5, on his list. It will give me some time to look at options, and save up some more $$$ for the power package. Thanks....

 

[Hemirunner]

Take the valve cover off and post a picture of the cylinder head numbers. Probably first gen MP heads.

 

[VANDAN]

The head #'s are P4120960. Any info on those ?

 

[Hemirunner]

Those are pretty old. Do they have D shaped exhaust ports?

 

[VANDAN]

Not sure on that. The motor is in NC, and I'm in WNY. I'll have to check that out next time I'm down there. Would appreciate any info that's out there...

 

[wyrmrider]

There are DC blocks that can be bored more and many that can't
I do not like to bore any more than you have to to clean up- and here you might get by with a minimum hone with a torque plate
Mopar have long cylinders which flex stock and more so when they get thinner- ring seal and longevity is more important than a couple of cubic inches unless your are racing heads up with rules that big bores help with
ditto with strokers above 4 1/4